This particular design is simple in order, more for the sake of keeping my short attention span on track for long enough to actually get this finished!
Let me know if I've missed some detail and I'll correct it.
For more photos see flickr page
Warning: Even a low power laser can cause permanent eye damage. Always wear safety glasses and never point at people, animals, or police helicopters!
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Signing UpStep 1: Materials and Tools
This guide shows the set-up for slides made from overhead transparencies.
I will use the Dinkle rails and polymorph pellets.
Materials Required:
- Green laser module 10mW+
- 1 solid length of wood (~90cm)
- polymorph pellets (or a willingness to create lens holders from wood, plastic, etc)
- concave and convex lens. You can get these from old disposable cameras which camera shops will throw out by the dozens.
- Hardware for attaching rail to wood (bolts or screws, depending on method).
- Dinkle rails, with 72mm rail modules (x4), and the mounting feet (x8), available from http://www.altronics.com.au/ (note, you may find a better way of mounting the parts, but this one works for me).
- perspex or pcb 72mm with for Dinkle mounts.
- Drill
- Jigsaw or handsaw
- Hole making bits for drill (if using wood to create lens holders)
I will use the Dinkle rails for this instruction simply because they make alignment so much easier. They also allow a great degree of modularity - being able to swap different lasers, lens, etc in and out quickly.









































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In short, yes a pet laser would work, but it would have a range of probably a few cm in a dark room
www.tehnoboard.ru
get a green one, a blue, and a red one all together and have full color laser projection.
10mW $7.86
50 mW $16.45
The reason I started to look at these things is a friend of mine just got me into lasers. I have been an electrical engineer for years and a DJ on the side.
One of my aspirations was to build my own projector. Now I do not have the mula for a new 1/4 or even 1/2 watt diode but I was able to get a Reliant 250M.
It was out of an old Mobolaser unit and I finally got it to run after a few days of pulling my hair out and backwards engineering it to trouble shoot it.
Lol it turned out to be an opto blown.
I will have to beam mix using a 250 mw red but I was able to get my greens and blues now at around 250mw.
I also picked up an old pangolin system. Right now it is in pieces but give me time I will have it worked out soon.
One of my questions is before I start buying stuff for my new / old projector is:
Has anyone used the Skyscan?
I heard it has even a faster smaller mini type of scanner block in it.
I found it here: www.minilaserscaner.com
Please let me know if you have used one of these projectors. I may go that way instead.
It looks like aaxa is starting to retail out similar projectors with RGB lasers. Looks like the same general idea, however.
I might buy one after I botch the one i'm trying to make. haha.
so i followed kipkays tutorial on lasers and get a lser out of a DVD drive
but instead of the laser being focused into one beam it acts as a spread beam (like a torch) is this because it doesn't have a lens?
so also is this bad or does it just mean there is no need for the convex lens
you're right about the laser having no lens and not needing one.
but you can consider getting a convex lens and placing this one closer to the laser than the focal length (so if the focal length is 5cm keep the the lens no further then 5 cm, otherwise you're image gets up side down)
'
cause when you put an convex lens in front of it you can control the beam spread. how closer to focal point how smaller the beam spread is.
greetings jetse