After several prototypes and failed attempts, I managed to create a consistent clock escapement as part of a larger kinetic sculpture. This model is based on a variation of the deadbeat escapement. Escapements in general work by limiting how fast potential energy is released. Since the escapement ensures a consistent time between swings of the pendulum (adding a small amount of energy back to the pendulum as it swings) we rely on the escapement in order to tell accurate time in mechanical clocks. These directions tell you how to create the functioning pendulum and escapement set, but it will not run without adding a spool and weights to the end of the rod connected to the escapement gear (shown on top).
I purchased the majority of my parts through McMaster Carr, but you may find alternatives elsewhere.
You will need:
10 1/4" shaft collars (single set screw)
10 1/4"-20 hex nuts
Approximately 16" of 1/4"-20 steel threaded rod, cut into two 4" pieces and one 6" piece
5" of 1/4" steel smooth rod
One roller bearing with interior diameter of a 1/4". The outdoor diameter is flexible as long as you change it in the laser cutter
2 1/4" sleeve bearings. Flanged or regular both work (I use one of each in this instructable)
Set of Laser Cut parts which include two identical frame pieces, an escapement gear, and a pendulum with the pair of necessary
(if you wish to change your escapement type, I recommend Clock and Watch Escapement Mechanics by Mark V. Headrick)
Allen wrench (same size as your set screw)
Gorilla glue or epoxy
Step 1: Pieces and Affixing Bearings
If you haven't done so already, create or procure a set of the 4 pieces from the attached design files (available both in dxf and adobe illustrator cs6). This should include 2 identical frame pieces, one escapement gear, and the pendulum with attached escapement pallets. If your bearing has a larger profile than the one suggested, be sure to increase the size of the hole at the top of the pendulum (near the pallet teeth, where it branches out into a claw shape). I cut my pieces using Acrylic due to the slipperiness (coefficient of friction) that the Acrylic has for the escapement to release on each swing. I imagine that there are other possible materials to use.
With a ton of caution, apply epoxy or gorilla glue to the outside of your bearing and place it inside of the pendulum (nearest the pallet head).
DO NOT GET ANY GLUE/EPOXY ON THE BEARING FACES (or in between any cracks). This will cause your bearing to not function well at all.
Also glue your sleeve bearings into the top section of the frame (the side with one hole in the middle of the rectangle, the bottom has two holes on the edges). Do not get glue inside of your sleeve bearings for it will also change the friction and make it harder to use.