Step 10: And There It Is.

The skeleton is much stronger and better looking than expected.
Bystanders make approving comments. I could wrap plastic around it and put it in the water right now, but those 260 lashings have gotten me into a really methodical state of mind.

The bend at the end of the stringers is pretty tight. I thought I might break the stringers, so I didn't cinch them down all the way. On the north coast of Papua I saw boards being bent for canoes just above the beach. The ends are the most work. They pile stones on the ends and lash them to take the sharpest bend they can. In the old days the end was a separate piece carved from a forked tree trunk. That was more work but didn't involve bending anything. The canoe builder said now that boards are easy to get he saves work by making the ends of his canoes thinner, but the old shape was better.

I'm trying to make these ends nice and fat. A naval architect would say "a high prismatic coefficient".
I had to go back to the mainland so I just trimmed the stringers to length and left them like this.
When I get back I'll see if they've taken the bend enough to lash down against the stem.

If they don't I'll do one of two things: I might bend new ribs for the ends that aren't so fat.
Or I might cut the stringers short so they don't reach the stem. Some kayaks and Umiaks are done that way.

I tied cord loops to the rafters and hoisted the canoe out of the way til I got back.

Continue the adventure with Sailing Canoe Chapter 4: Carve Outrigger and Break Tools
 What are the dimensions of the stringers? Thin enough to bend well and thick enough to be structurally sound?
I used to teach a class on skin on frame boat building, easiest material I found was cheap mahogany door skin. It's about 10 bucks at Home Depot and is good for 20-30 strips (depending on width) after some easy ripping on the table saw
Thanks for asking! thats the sort of info that's important to have in the right spot.<br /> <br /> http://www.instructables.com/id/Outrigger/step5/Rip-the-Gunwales-and-Stringers/ says:<br /> The stringers are 3/8&quot; x 3/4&quot; x 16' which is longer than we really need, but we got lucky with boards. We'll cut them down later when we fit the skin on.<br /> I've updated this step to include the info. I haven't updated my culture to use the Metric System, it will take a long time to undo the damage done by Ronald Reagan, who switched us back into the Imperial System.<br />
&nbsp;Thanks for the update. So one could use a 1x12 clear cedar or pine board (however long) and rip it down to 3/8&quot;strips to use as stringers and ribs? I really would love to build a canoe like this, I recently moved to Oregon and it just seems heretical to live here and not have a canoe. I have access to a very good woodworking shop, I'm thinking I could cut out my strips of cedar or pine, soak or steam them, and manhandle them into a canoe, obviously with a little more finesse than that. My concern is: Is it&nbsp;necessary&nbsp;to use saplings or willow rods (as i have seen many others do) for the ribs? Wouldn't a thin and supple strip of softwood work just as well and have the advantage of perfect consistency?
my cousin built a similar project, i took some pics and threw em on <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.flickr.com">Flickr</a>. check em out <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rossbeane/2804356873/in/photostream/">pic 1</a>, <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rossbeane/2804355841/in/photostream/">2</a>, <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rossbeane/2804355461/in/photostream/">3</a>.<br/>
Nice! how do you like it? is there more information? I'd love to hear about what did and didn't work for him!
This is a cool instructable but it looks like Star is doing all the work.

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Bio: Tim Anderson is the author of the "Heirloom Technology" column in Make Magazine. He is co-founder of www.zcorp.com, manufacturers of "3D Printer" output ... More »
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