This is an infinitely scalable recipe for very effective and cheap laundry detergent. It's important to do this by weight as borax and wash soda crystals are different sizes and a cup of one isn't the same weight as a cup of another. I've been using this detergent for nearly a year now and I cannot see a reason to go back to buying a manufactured brand. It works wonderfully.

The magic numbers are 3:3:5.

Three parts (by weight remember!) of borax to three parts of bar soap to 5 parts of wash soda.

That's it. Three ingredients.

Step 1: Weigh It Out

Use a scale that lets you use metric units. Metric is so much easier on the fractionally challenged. Add a zero, drop a zero. Easy.

In this Instructable I'm using the ratio to make around 550 grams of detergent. It's not critical to get precise measurements for this. The soap I used only measured in at 125 grams. Just get it in the ball park and you're good. Of course if you're scaling the recipe up you'll want to try to stay fairly close as you scale up or the ratio will get all out of whack and you'll get less than stellar soap.

I used 150g of borax, 150g of soap, and 250g of wash soda. Mix it all together.

Just as an example:

A ratio of 3:3:5
Add some zeros.
300g : 300g : 500g

Then divide by 2.

150g : 150g : 250g

Multiply and divide as needed.

<p>I make my own detergent with Pure Soap Flakes purchased from natlallergy.com. Before each load I place the desired amount in a cup and mix with hot water with a hand blender before adding to the washing machine. This dissolves all of the soap flakes without using a food processor. I also read somewhere that if you use oxyclean, you should add it to the machine to dissolve before adding any detergent. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?</p>
I've been trying to add a generic oxyclean to see if there are any benefits. I don't know that there is yet. I add it dry to the soap dispenser tray. If you're using a top loader I don't see the benefit of pre-dissolving. I'd just add it where the water streams in. It'll dissolve fast enough. The soap i this recipe is the slowest thing to dissolve if you don't get it powdered well. That happens with the Fels Naptha soap unless you let it dry out some way. I'm currently keeping a bar in a bag with a huge desiccant pack.
<p>I make my own detergent with Pure Soap Flakes purchased from natlallergy.com. Before each load I place the desired amount in a cup and mix with hot water with a hand blender before adding to the washing machine. This dissolves all of the soap flakes without using a food processor. I also read somewhere that if you use oxyclean, you should add it to the machine to dissolve before adding any detergent. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Also, how much detergent would you recommend for a top loading machine? I think I've been using too much!</p>
<p>Love this stuff. I have eczema and this gives me no problems. One thing to bear in mind is that you use so little that the washing soda and Borax are going to be around awhile and love to absorb water. I keep mine in old coffee containers labelled in Sharpie (with the proportions) on duct tape - pure class!</p>
<p>Another thing I've found is that because I don't have a food processor, I shake the box up (another coffee container) before use and mix it in with hot water (in a top loader) before adding the clothes. Otherwise, it works fine.</p>
<p>I've been making my DIY Laundry Detergent using these ingredients for years now, but this is the first time someone has posted the measurement in grams. Weighing stuff is so much easier and just more accurate. I weighed a cup of each to give a general idea if anyone wanted to know. Granted a bunch of things could effect the weight of 1 cup. I tried to get ingredients as close to the 1 cup line in the same measuring cup.</p><p>A&amp;H Super Washing Soda -275 grams per cup</p><p>Mule Team Borax - 145 grams per cup</p><p>Oxyclean (name brand) - 230 grams per cup</p><p>Soap is impossible to measure a cup of, everyone grates and blends to different sizes.</p><p>Since most recipes online use cups or half cups, using the numbers above you might be able to get ratios of your favorite recipe.</p><p>I'm going to give the 3:3:3:5 (soap:borax:oxyclean:washing soda) a try. Everything I've tried so far seems to work pretty well</p><p>One tip I can give is new bars of Zote soap are softish. They grate okay, but if you try to blend right away it becomes clumpy. I usually grate, then leave out for a day or 2 to dry up. Throw it in my mini 20 dollar food chopper and it comes out almost like powder.</p><p>Lastly, this site says they like Fels Naptha better than Zote.</p><p><a href="http://www.budget101.com/content.php/4213-Fels-Naptha-vs-Zote" rel="nofollow">http://www.budget101.com/content.php/4213-Fels-Nap...</a></p>
I may start using Fels Naptha all of the time or Dr. Bronners. Maybe a mix for nice aroma, although Fels is pleasant enough. Recently I've tried other additives too. I may try experimenting with different pHs.
So cool! I'm definitely using this in college.
so far so good! I used a laundry soap bar instead of bath/hand soap.
I used Fels Naptha once. It thought it did fine and smelled nice.
<p>I've been using a formula similar to another poster's: 1 box washing soda, 1 box borax, 1 bar of soap. It seems to get my clothes clean, but white clothes that are washed every week (socks, underwear, T-shirts) are definitely grayer. Is the proportion what is causing this? Something else? Do you have a suggestion for preventing this problem?</p>
<p>Jeannes - try this (although it will take a time or two to get the grey removal process started) everytime you wash whites from now on. </p><p>This is a bit of a more &quot;natural&quot; Oxyclean method but works better then the Oxyclean itself. </p><p>Soaking is another key besides the ingredients. </p><p>Soak your load at least 3-6 hours, overnight would be the best. Maybe alott time for the white load(s)? </p><p>Start your wash as usual, and use your normal soap/detergent. </p><p>Let it agitate for about 5-10 minutes then add 1/2 cup of Washing Soda (NOT baking soda) and 1/2 cup of hydrogen peroxide. </p><p>Let your laod agitate again for a few minutes then turn off your washer and let it soak, the longer the better.</p><p>After soaking, turn the washer back on and continue as always. </p><p>I promise this will work wonders for you! </p>
I always bleach whites. I guess if you don't like using bleach you might try some kind of oxyclean type cleaner. The benefit of using bleach and doing your white load last is that if you have a front loading washer it will keep it from getting those odd smells that people say they have to leave the doors open to prevent.
<p>When I wash underwear I use two scoops of oxyclean, ERA laundry soap and hot water. I let the washer run for a bit then stop it and let everything soak overnight. In the morning I restart the washer. This process has worked wonders in cleaning my boyfriend's underwear. I even managed to turn his whites back from grungy gray to a nice white again. I don't sort out the whites from the colored underwear. By using oxyclean I don't have to worry about colors bleeding. I've read that you shouldn't use bleach in the washer for more than 10 minutes. Bleach breaks down the fibers of your clothes thus causing them to wear out faster.</p>
<p>Gosh, thank you for your honesty - I don't have a boyfriend but I sure do appreciate trying to keep clothes clean. I hate using bleach because I feel like I am wasting so much water cause it takes about 5 more washes to get rid of the smell. I just got some Oxyclean from Costco so I will be using that.</p>
<p>Honestly... this was worth reading for the mere fact that you wrote &quot;fine as frog hair&quot;. I am writer and that is forever carved into my soul...lol! </p><p>Otherwise thank you and fantastic job.</p><p>Allow me to add my father-in-law is a dermatologist who has spent his entire life telling us that most allergies are from perfumes put in projects, most especially laundry detergents! Thank you for sharing this, it will likely help lots of people with sensitive skin! Good for you!</p>
<p>I dabble at the keys. You aren't alive and thinking unless you have a half finished novel in a drawer that you started 10 years ago.</p>
<p>Guess I've lived, then! Got one first draft finished and the first of the series started now that I know what I did wrong!<br>Purchased the ingredients today (but with Zote for a top-loader). Came to $12. Grating the soap tonight but don't have a food processor so we'll see what happens.</p>
<p>Does about 10 different starting sentences count? I loved the frog hair line as well.</p>
<p>I've been looking for a decent recipe for dry detergent since as you stated water is valuable and if we can avoid liquid anything, you should. Furthermore, the cardboard box these ingredients come in are most of the time biodegradable so you can throw it in a compost pile. That makes this a zero waste laundry detergent! Thanks for the informative and easy to follow instructable!</p>
<p>20 mule borax is a very good thing to use and it does not matter if you use your own soap or buy your soap, it will leave a refreshing smell and will make your laundry cleaner.</p>
<p>Doing my first load with it now!</p>
<p>Awesome in so many ways. </p><p>'Grate just friggin' grate' </p><p>Thank you!</p>
<p>Has anyone tried adding LA's Totally Awesome Power Oxygen Base Cleaner from Dollar Tree for boosted cleaning? It's a buck a pound and supposedly works as good as OxyClean? I'm thinking of trying it in the mix as I work as an aircraft mechanic and get pretty darn grimy at times with engine oil and hyraulic fluid. </p>
<p>I have used it and it works great. Never ventured into their laundry soap, but their &quot;Oxyclean&quot; works wonders. I also add it to my homemade laundry detergent.</p>
<p>I recently made a batch of laundry detergent by the numbers following the above formula but I added the Oxygen cleaner at a rate of 3 so its 3 parts borax 3 parts soap(Zoote) 3 parts Oxygen Base and 5 parts Washing Soda,. Did my first loads last night and I must say it worked swell!</p>
<p>I broke out in the worst pimples/hives I have ever had across my whole body using that brand laundry soap. <br>It was not totally awesome. </p>
<p>I've got a recipe that I use in my washer that is more of a jelly consistency. We've been using it for years and I'm pretty sure the author stole the idea for this Instructable from me after I said, &quot;Hey man, you should make your own laundry detergent. You're good at that homemade business.&quot; </p><p>So, clearly, I did all the hard work and he's just taking the credit. #TongueInCheek</p>
<p>This is a great money saver and the discussion excellent too. Going to make it soon. I too am wondering about using my food processor for any chemicals. The Borax issue is not an issue to me. I've been adding it to my wash for years. As well I think I'll add the vinegar. About 1/4 of a cup is what we used to use with the babies. Thank you all.</p>
<p>How much would you use in a top-loading machine?</p>
start with 1 tablespoon per load. If that doesn't satisfy you increase it in half tablespoon increments.<br>
<p>Thank you. I'll give it a try! </p>
<p>I use the recipe of:</p><p>2 Boxes Washing Soda (72 Oz each)</p><p>1 Box Borax (76 oz)</p><p>3 bars Zote soap (14 oz each)</p><p>6 bars Fels Naptha (5.5 oz each)</p><p>I shred the soap with the shredding disc for my food processor, mix everything together, and process in the food processor in batches to make it a fine powder. This yields about 320 ounces by volume of detergent, and costs about 2.5 cents a load to use a tablespoon. I make it for a local animal rescue, and they LOVE it!</p>
<p>I've been doing the 1 cup washing soda, 1 cup borax, and I bar of soap for a couple of years for our HE front loader with no problems, but I think I'll try your method of weighing, especially since different soap bars yield different amounts. As far as soaps, I've used Ivory, Fels-Naptha, Zote (pink, but just found a white bar I may try), and Yardley. If you want a little smell, you can always add a few drops of 100% essential oil (lavender, peppermint, etc.) to the dry mix. Won't stain or damage your clothes. I also picked up an old food processor at the thrift store just for mixing my detergent. No worries about my homemade hummus tasting like soap! haha </p>
<p>Simply add some water to your food processor and run it. This will clean the bowl and get rid of any soap. That's how I clean my FP and Blender every time I use them. Learned that trick from my dear mom. </p>
Never heard of that one! Good to know. I've always heard of people complaining about the soap and wondered how the dishwasher didn't clean it up, so I never used my good one.<br>
<p>I make this soap all the time. I love the simplicity of it and the plain clean smell of my clothes. I've used zote and Fels, and I'm not sure of much difference except smell. I add it directly to the tub.Whatever the store has at the time I use. I also use vinegar for a rinse if I remember. I made the liquid soap once and that was more than enough times, it's a mess to make and heavy and a pain to store. I can store the powder in a bucket with a scoop. I did finally use a gallon size pump dispenser for the liquid and that helped. But the gelling effect was too much trouble. I use Oxyclean, both brand and off brand for white loads and you can also buy blueing to add to a load that is getting yellowy to mask the yellow and help return it to brighter whiteness without bleaching it to death. Those blue crystals in the Oxyclean are probably cystallized blueing. My BF thinks I'm silly, but I enjoy having my own laundry soap. No funny smells and no sticky spills or heavy containers! Yay!</p>
<p>My recipe is 1 bar of Fels Naptha soap, 1 cup of washing soda, 1/2 cup of borax and ten gallons of water. Buy the stuff at hardware stores (grocery stores don't have it usually). Let the mix sit overnight and it thickens somewhat by morning. I start with a big painter's or lard bucket with a lid, and once thickened put it into empty laundry jugs I snag from the trash at the laundromat. A kind of recycling! If it gets too thick to pour, simple shake the jug before measuring a cupful for a small load, two cups for a large one. You have to get past the idea that this is a very low suds type of laundry detergent. Despite low suds it washes clothes very well. Thank you above for that pink Zote bug repellent info--wow! Once you make your own laundry detergent, whichever recipe works for you, you will never again pay big bucks for a little thing of Tide &amp; you'll think that people who do are fools. Making my own detergent was one of the smartest things I've ever done. Wish I had done it years ago....and saved those big bucks sooner !</p>
<p>I use the liquid version too, but a little different ratio than yours. Going on my 4th year using homemade and I'm still on my 1st boxes of washing soda and borax. I can only guess how much I've saved by not buying laundry detergent, and I was buying the &quot;cheap&quot; stuff to begin with. I'll never go back.</p>
<p>That's awesome! I've been using the borax, wash soda, dry color safe bleach powder &amp; oxy-clean (the last two are always at Dollar Tree). I just use an old larger laundry soap box and pour in a little at a time...layering the powders. I mix it a little, but it really doesn't have to be perfect. I also get a liquid laundry soap at the Dollar Tree. Then, when I was a full load, I just put in about a 1/4 cup of the powder mixture and about 2oz of the liquid. It makes the clothes super soft, clean and they smell nice (not perfumey). </p>
<p>Of all the areas in the household where on can save money, DON&rsquo;T take a universal approach to &ldquo;save money&rdquo; on <em>detergents</em> - that ultimately result in money <strong>wasted</strong> on pre-mature, expensive REPAIRS to equipment like your washing mating &amp; your automatic dishwashers.</p> <br><p>Why? Because Home-Made formulas save you $10-$15, at the expensive of seals, gaskets and metal/metal contact - due to <em>(just one example)</em> the presence of bar soap; animal fats and vegetable fat based soap scum, which - along with the absence of sodium silicates (typical in most home made formulas) that in the long term, end up saving you <strong>nothing</strong> - when you discover you have to replace a water pump, or the washer's transmission <em>or other critical part</em> - costing you way more than your &ldquo;savings&rdquo; via the wrong detergent by very first service call!!</p> <br><p>As noted in the instructions at Henkel/Dial, ideally, <em>you must dissolve bar soaps in hot water or boiling</em> - another expense of significance. </p> <br><p>Consider the characteristics of the typical Euro User - (who tend to keep water heater temps <strong>40-50F degrees hotter</strong> than their US counterpart) and wash their laundry in HE machines for up to an hour per load (vs. 6 to 14 minutes in the USA)!! </p> <br><p>It is expensive - for energy use to run the machines much longer per load, and requiring the replenishment of hot water inventory!</p> <br><p>-------------------------</p> <br><p>Using hair conditioner with fragrance, that contains a humectant designed for keratin (skin), and includes Sunflower Oil, most frequently(<em>Helianthus anus)</em>, means that you are adding a vegetable oil in the rinse cycle!! This is for skin &amp; hair, not shirts and pillow cases!!</p> <br><p><strong>Here&rsquo;s a better suggestion to consider:</strong></p> <br><p>- Use the very best detergent you can afford.</p> <br><p>- Use enzyme boosters &amp; oxygenates (such as <strong>Biz</strong> or <strong>Clorox 2</strong> <em>color-safe bleach</em>), when more kick is necessary.</p> <br><p>- Permit these additives to dissolve in a quart or two of <strong>very warm water </strong><em>(</em><strong><em>not</em></strong><em> boiling - that will &ldquo;kill&rdquo; the enzymes, which are VERY expensive &amp; </em><em>ultra</em><em> effective!!) </em>in a two quart/liter container, then add it to the laundry water.</p> <br><p>- &ldquo;Very Warm Water&rdquo; is what activates the enzymes and releases the peroxides into the water via the catalyst systems formulated for the mix (typically TAED or Manganese complexes), then add to the water as per the fabric&rsquo;s label (temp &amp; dyes on fabrics are related!). 5 mins of washer agitation is good - and then let your clothes SOAK. </p> <br><p>- Soak for 30 minute<em>s, or to as long as overnight.</em><em> (The hydrogen peroxide will work wonders!) </em>Combined with enzymes against sugars, proteins, lipids (fats &amp; oil) and new enzymes for sauces and grass stains&hellip; the latest detergents and detergent boosters do amazing things!!)</p> <br><p>- Use white vinegar in a rinse <strong>only</strong> cycle (<em>or clear ammonia</em>) to refresh bedspreads (and other larger pieces like blankets, towels, etc.) <strong>WITHOUT</strong> <strong>WASHING</strong>! Vinegar or ammonia, along with baking soda (an amphoteric compound of <em>sodium, hydrogen, hydrogen, carbonate</em>) chelates (traps) minerals in the water, permitting the rinse to be more effective as the water softens. (That is also what Borax and Washing Soda do as well, but they are much stronger.) </p> <br><p>The rinse water can accept <strong>OR</strong> donate electrons, thereby removing dust, dead skin cells, animal dander &amp; fur, and even public hairs on your comforters, left behind by prostitutes !</p> <br><p><strong>THIS IS VERY INEXPENSIVE!!</strong> THE MORE $$ YOU SAVE, YOU CAN BUY &amp; USE HIGH <strong>QUALITY</strong> <strong>DETERGENTS! </strong><strong>Tide</strong><strong>&reg; is the best. Method&reg; and Seventh Generation&reg; are Top Tier as well! Method comes in a SUPER concentrate of 8x. </strong>A few squirts is all you need for a entire wash load.</p> <br><p><strong>TRY THESE &amp; SAVE $$</strong><strong> </strong></p> <br><p><em>You can buy Tide/ Method/ 7th Gen! </em><strong><em>Well worth 25-45&cent;</em></strong><em>!</em></p> <br><p>- SKIP Starbucks to save $$$! Make your OWN coffee for 3&cent; per cup!</p> <br><p>- SKIP high heating temps overnight in your home! Set it to ~58-62 degrees at night and wear pajamas or clean sweat pants! </p> <br><p>- Use multiple blankets in layers &amp; watch for electric blanket bargains to keep warm. This is MUCH LESS EXPENSIVE vs. heating an entire home you aren&rsquo;t even using! Blankets &amp; mattress pads are now out!!</p> <br> <br><p>- Do the speed limit or <em>even 5mph less!</em>! You&rsquo;ll find you still get &ldquo;there&rdquo; within 5 minutes of the &ldquo;old you&rdquo; &amp; you will save significant $$ on fuel and get much better Miles Per Gallon (mpg&rsquo;s).</p> <br><p>- <strong>SKIP</strong> the trip to Vegas <strong>and</strong> <strong>SKIP</strong> playing your state Lottery! </p> <br><p>The best odds - on the OLD games?, well past 14 million to 1. That&rsquo;s almost the same as 14million to zero! </p> <br><p> <em>With PowerBall? The odds are </em><em>much</em><em> higher. </em></p> <br><p>- Use Suave or other body/hair washes in the shower, that are a bargain and are both detergents (no soap scum on you, the bath or your hair or the drain system) where 32oz often costs LESS than $2 and lasts 6 months or more.</p> <br><p> Virtually all Salon formulas are just versions of the same shampoos, with variations in water content. Adding a drop of tea into a bottle of shampoo does NOT magic! It just raises prices!!</p> <br><p>- Install an inexpensive shower-head <strong>that lets you control flow rate</strong><strong>.</strong> Set near zero or zero H2O, while washing your hair or if you shaving in the shower! If you are a fat slob and it takes you 5x longer to wash your massive body area, save water in the process! Turn off the shower head until you are ready to rinse! Saves water &amp; electricity/gas for hot water!!</p> <br><p>- Always buy a car that is at least 1 year old, and has taken the single largest hit in depreciation to save ~2a5%. Go for 3 year old versions to be looking at near 65% of sticker price. <strong>A major source of savings</strong>.</p> <br><p>- Get auto loans at Credit Unions - <em>as they are non-profit.</em></p> <br><p>- Upgrade your energy eating appliances &amp; HVAC systems that have a return on investment (ROI) and ultimately push you into positive territory after 3 years or so. Use the savings to pay your appliances off, and after that, you use the savings to pay your entire electric bill!!</p> <br><p>- Take advantage of State and Federal tax subsidies to get new windows, doors, insulation, washer/dryer, air conditioner/furnace/heat-pumps, water heaters/fridge, washer &amp; dryer as well as electric company financing at ZERO percent <em>- and other &ldquo;6 months same as cash&rdquo; at Home Depot and the like to save hundreds per year!</em></p> <br><p>- Save oil-change coupons, &amp; verify if you can use 0W-30 or 5W-30 oil in the winter month to minimize the exposure of the crank shaft and other systems to a momentary lack of oil during start-up during ultra cold weather. (it should be just fine!)</p> <br><p>- Grow your own fresh veggies in an outdoor garden at home for tomatoes and green/red bell peppers and other veggies/fruits you enjoy that have gone up in price significantly.</p> <br><p>- Plant fruit or hardwood nut trees (walnut/pecan) <strong>as shade trees</strong> that also provide free food to you and your family (and in the case of either, more than just a few hundred $$$ per year when selling your output! Join a cooperative, where you can exchange your garden surpluses for food things you need.</p> <br><p>- Cook large pots of soups and sauces from great recipes available everywhere, and <em>freeze extra for later use</em>. <strong>Stop paying for expensive pasta sauces</strong> - <em>even those at just $1 for 15-18oz</em>, when you can make it fresh or canned, in large quantities for 1/3rd the price.</p> <br><p>- If you are truly a bacon whore, hunt your own pigs late at night! Better yet&hellip; Team up with a friend or two and check around. <strong>Buy a whole pig or cow</strong> from a farmer, <strong>delivered</strong><strong> </strong>to butcher shop for processing. It&rsquo;s an incredible BARGAIN.</p> <br><p>Same with chickens, etc. You can typically split such orders with a friend or two, and save HUNDRED$$, if you are a big meat loving family. <em>(if you really like variety, build an Ark. A sledge hammer is all you need to start dinner! For bigger animals, use a bazooka!!</em></p> <br><p>- <strong>Consider thermal solar for water heating</strong> - it&rsquo;s an inexpensive system that when using a Fresnel lens, does not have the drawbacks of high costs like PV does, and just provides Sun heated water to supplement and/or replace your current water heater efforts.</p> <br><p>- <strong>Buy used books or go to the library instead </strong>of buying the next hard cover &quot;Harry Pothead &amp; The Opium Farm <strong>or</strong> The Girl with the Eyeball Tattoo&rdquo; and save $20-$25 on every book! Goodwill and Salvation Army are LOADED with hardcover books for between 50&cent; &amp; $3 &mdash; donated immediately after reading by their previous owners, because they prefer to pack lightly and keep &ldquo;stuff&rdquo; to a minimum.</p> <br> <br><p>- <strong>Use fans to cool a room</strong>, either large floor units or ceiling fans, when moving air is <em>just as comfortable</em> as using a 240v, 60 amp appliance to cool off a room.</p> <br><p>The list goes ON AND ON AND ON &mdash; but it permits you to do one very special thing: <strong>It permits you to buy the highest quality laundry detergent <em>without blinking</em> at the 25&cent; to 50&cent; per load range.</strong> </p> <br><p>These formulas (Tide, 7th Generation, Method, Gain) contain enzymes and the latest in phosphate free detergent formulations that clean almost as good as the best phosphate based detergents. (P&amp;G swears they will surpass those in just a few years for the <em>best of the best </em>version of Tide.)</p> <br> <br><p><strong>You&rsquo;ll save a fortune</strong> - <em>you&rsquo;ll be able to purchase high quality boosters &amp; detergents that are properly formulated for the parts and gaskets and seals in your washer and dryer, and eliminate the chances of unexpected failures.</em></p> <br> <br><p><strong>SAVE MONEY WHERE IT MAKES SENSE</strong>. YOU want EQUAL OR BETTER PERFORMANCE when you try to save money - whether it is for your car, generic drugs for your health, or detergents that clean.</p> <br><p>Save money when <em>&ldquo;all things being otherwise equal&rdquo;</em> is indeed true. </p> <br><p><strong>You don&rsquo;t try to formulate your own blood thinners, or high blood pressure medications. Don&rsquo;t try to hack the system with incomplete laundry </strong><strong>soaps</strong><strong> that can make your clothes gray and require unexpected equipment problems and costly repairs for expensive HE washers that <em>would</em> have lasted years.</strong></p><div><strong><br></strong></div>
<p>Ha... Intersting fact: In whole Europe the open trade, open use and open distribution of Borax is forbidden by law. On 21th August 2008 it was classified as poisonous and damaging to DNA and unborns.<br>See <a href="http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2008:246:0001:0191:DE:PDF," rel="nofollow"> http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do...</a> page 137</p><p>Just a heads up for a little thinking if you want to use almost 1/3 of borax washing your clothes...</p>
<p>Yeah but there is too much noise around borax. Basically, to get intoxicated you need to eat it. Besides, its median lethal dose score is tested at 2.66 g/kg in rats,<u> </u> a significant dose of the chemical is needed to cause severe symptoms or death. The lethal dose is not necessarily the same for humans. (from wikipedia) And children make a simple polymer at school out of borax.</p>
<p>A word of caution and in support of Orngrimm, Borax may not kill you, but it may cause you (and your kids) some significant problems.</p><p>Here's a great article on homemade laundry detergent and some things to think about when using Borax:</p><p><a href="http://grist.org/living/try-this-at-home-the-joys-of-diy-laundry-detergent/" rel="nofollow">http://grist.org/living/try-this-at-home-the-joys-...</a></p>
Does this work with high efficiency machine? They need things that don't suds up as much
<p>I use the liquid version of this recipe in an HE Maytag washer (1/2 cup borax, 1/2 cup washing soda, 1/3 bar Fels Naptha, 8 quarts water - boil). It is low suds and works very well. Around $1 for TWO gallons - what a savings.</p><p>One more tip - rinse your laundry with white vinegar. Just put it in the softener dispenser. Vinegar is a natural softener AND your washer gets a good cleaning with each wash. Never a mildew smell!</p>
<p>How much of the vinegar in terms of cups for easy measuring?</p>
<p>The dispenser on my washer holds about 1/3 to 1/2 a cup. It doesn't take much.</p>
<p>Oh and to answer your next question:</p><p>No, the vinegar does NOT leave a smell in your clothes. They just smell cleannnnnnnnn!</p>

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