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Where I live we only get snow once or twice a year, but when we do, its a pain to shovel the drive way by hand. I looked into buying a plow for the old lawn tractor, but I couldnt justify spending 500 bucks for the few times that I would use it. That is why I built this monster. I built it in a few hours one afternoon, and it only cost me about 15 dollars. So here it is.

Step 1: What Your Going to Need

Parts

- 1 2x4x8

- 1 2x12x8

- 1 1/2in steel rod

- 2 large cotter pins

- 2 3/8x4 bolts with flat washers, and nylon lock nuts

- 3in galvinized skrews

Step 2: Find a Place to Attach the Plow

This is crucial because all of the force of the snow/dirt/whatever will be placed on this point. The location of the hookup will also drive the design. It took me a few tries, but I finally found a good spot to attach the plow. There was a pin in the front of the tractor that held up the forward mount of the mowing deck. I removed the original pin and replaced it with one that I cut a few inches longer to allow for the with of 2 2x4's.

Step 3: Build the Bracket

This piece is pretty self explanitory, its made out if the 2x4's and skrews. I decided what angle I wanted the plow to push at. If the angle isnt steep enough, the lawn tractor wont be able to move the snow to the side. The angle on my plow is 15 degrees. You cut the 2x4's to the angle of the plow blade. I Had to put a cross member in place to strengthen the bracket.

** Be sure to use pilot holes when sinking the skrews so you dont crack the wood.

I drilled holed into the ends of the 2x4's that were large enoguh for the pin to turn freely inside. Its important that these holes are drilled perpendicular to the 2x4, otherwise the pin will not go throguh the holes.

Get your metal pin and drill two holes on opposite ends that are large enough for the cotter pins. Install one of them, and dont install the other until the plow is attatched. To remove the plow, all you have to do is remove one of the cotter pins and pull the main pin out.

Step 4: The Blade

This is where you use the 2x12, you can make it what ever length works your you, this one is six feet long. To ensure that the blade sat flat on the ground, I mounted the braket on the tractor, then had my brother hold the blade up to it. I drilled the holes for the bolts right there, and put them in. I recomend putting the head of the bolt on the outside of the plow so that no one gets hurt on the other side.

Step 5: Lifitng the Blade

In some of my previous attempts, the blade would hit a man hole cover, or curb and hurt the braket. In this one I added a simple rachet strap to lift and lower the plow. I drilled a hole into the top of the blade and hammered the hook of the strap through it. Then I put the other hook into the handle that used to lift and lower the mower deck. This goves me easy control to move the plow as needed.

Step 6: Here It Is

Unfortunately the snow has all melted, so I cant show you all the work that this thing did, but it did a great job. I can take it off and put it on a couple of minuets, no problem.

<p>I believe you can improve the effectiveness of this design by adding a layer of PE sheeting to the face of the wood blade. This will allow the snow to slide off much easier than the wood surface itself as well as to protect it from water damage.<br>Be aware that you will have to devise a fastening system to add this feature to the design, as you will NOT be able to glue the PE to the wood surface. </p>
Nice job. Unfortunately in Michigan it would not work. Still nice job! I'm so done with winter.
<p>I'm guessing for a more long term solution, you would need to use metal, but in pinch this looks like a well assembled snow plow. Nice work!</p>

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