Step 4: Molds

You don't need to make a custom mold like I did to make gummy candies. There are many great silicone molds available. They are used for making candies, baking, molding butter, making ice,...

It doesn't have to be made of silicone either. A regular Ice tray will work too. Any thing that has a flat and smooth surface should work fine. I read a suggestion, by a Mom on some recipe site, to pull the rack out of your toaster oven, put a piece of foil on it, and push the foil down through the slats. She made a gummy worm mold that way.

This stuff is very forgiving.

Mold Options

Pour the candy in a flat pan and after it has gelled, then just slice it into squares, rectangles and triangles with a knife. You could cut shapes out with cookie cutters. You could even peel the sheet off in one piece, and cut it up with scissors.

Whatever you do, I'd recommend you keep them pretty small. If you are using an ice tray, or a butter mold, or any mold with large compartments, don't fill it to the top. Just fill them up to around 1/4 or 1/2 an inch.

You can make Mega-Gummies if you really want to. Ever wanted a gummy the size of an Ice Cube? Go ahead. It will work fine. Want one shaped like a Banana? Go ahead - just don't tell me what you plan on doing with it.


I purchased Food Grade Silicone from Douglas & Sturgess. They are a Sculpture Tools, Materials and Supplies store in San Francisco. They are really great folks and have some incredible casting materials that you can't find anywhere else. I bet you MythBusters buys their Ballistics Gel there. Well, I guess I shouldn't bet. Where they bought it is probably on the web, and I've already spent enough money on this project.

The number I used is FGS-2237 Food Grade Silicone. (There is a new number MC-1287) Here is a link

You need two parts. Part A is the silicone gel and part B is the catalyst. They sell it as a set. This is a 1 lb. set.

The silicone must be weighed to make sure you put in the right amount of catalyst. It's 10 parts Silicone (part A) to 1 part Catalyst (part B). Buy yourself a gram scale to do this. You really want to be accurate. You don't want to waste this stuff because you measured wrong.

I made my positive (the part that I made the mold from) out of - you guessed it - Legos!

When I was a kid, way back in the last Century, Legos were still this strange toy from Scandinavia. That was where all the "adult" films and Anita Eckberg came from - she was our Paris Hilton. She was beautiful, classy, spoke with a sultry Swedish accent, and went to the best parties. Well I guess she wasn't very Paris Hiltonish at all.

The only kids who had Legos were the ones who had Moms, or Grandparents, from Europe, or a Dad that we never saw, because he was always "away on business". Those kids got cool gifts. You could tell some of them came from the Airport gift store though.

I had an Erector set and was very happy with it.

Woops Sorry I got sidetracked -


As I was saying, I never had Legos and I still didn't have any when I decided to make this project. I visited the Lego website and found a set that I really wanted that had enough pieces for my mold and bought that. I planned what I needed with the Lego Digital Designer. It's a free software program you can download from Lego and it lets you build Lego stuff in VR. It will even count up the pieces for you and place an order.

I wanted my tray to not waste any space. If I left more than a single peg between each candy piece I'd be wasting the silicone.

When I got the Legos - I built the Taj Mahal - I couldn't resist! Have you seen it? It's amazing. 5,922 pieces.

So three days later, after I finished the Taj, I started taking it apart to get my candy mold pieces.

I put the pieces on a tray, and ringed the tray edge with a double stack of pieces to act as a wall and hold the silicone in (there is a photo of it below). Legos are made so well, that they really fit tightly together. I found that I didn't have to seal any of the cracks between the pieces inside.

Silicone will not stick to Legos. So you don't need to put any kind of mold release on the positive.

Just stick the pieces in there and make sure you stick them down really good.

Weigh the Silicone

To measure how much silicone you are going to need to fill the mold, you can measure it a couple of ways. The standard way is to fill the positive with water, pour the water into the plastic cup you are going to mix it in, and just draw a line on the cup at the water line. That is how much silicone you will need to fill the mold.

You can't let any water get anywhere near your silicone before you cast it though. If you measure your mold with water, make sure you allow plenty of time for it to get bone dry before you try to make your mold.

To avoid the water problem I used Lentils - yeah like in the soup - but dry ones. They have some really small black ones at the bulk food store and they don't put out any dust, so they are great for this. Just pour the lentils over your positive, then pour them into your mixing container. They don't mess your positive up at all. Then you don't have to worry about liquid spoiling your mold.

Put your plastic container - with the line marked on it, on your gram scale and set the scale to zero. That way you won't be weighing your plastic cup, just the silicone. Now pour enough of Part A to get up to your marked line. Don't just glop it in there, try to avoid causing any air pockets. Check to see how much the silicone weighs. Let's say it measured 350g. Because you use 10 parts A and 1 part B, you will need 10% of that weight in Catalyst or 35g. Zero (sometimes the button you use to do this is labeled "Tare") your scale out, with the silicone still on it. Then add the 35g of Part B right into the same container.

Mix it up

Mix your Part A and your Part B with something plastic. The catalyst is blue and the silicone is white so you can tell if you have it mixed. Scrape the sides and bottom as you do it. You want to be careful not to mix any extra air into it. Does that sound familiar? Just like the Gummies!

If you really want to make a perfect mold then you have to "de-air" the silicone. As this involves putting it in a vacuum chamber and most of us don't have one, you can just skip that step. There are lots of tips on the web on how to get the least bubbly silicone castings.

Pour it in your tray

You will pour the mixed silicone over the positive. Fill the tray up until you cover the tops of the pieces.

Pour slowly and don't move the Silicone back and forth like you are drizzling on frosting. That will leave air bubbles in the corners around your pieces. Pour it in a stream that hits the bottom of the tray - not over the Lego pieces, and let it flow around the tray and fill it up. This will help you avoid trapping any air.

Silicone is pretty good about releasing bubbles so you probably will get a pretty good mold.

I'd tap the tray a few times, and I've even held a back massager against it to help it release any air. You need to be very careful, that any of this tapping, or vibrating doesn't loosen any of the pieces inside the mold. I did a test piece and when I was tapping it, one of them floated to the top! I just grabbed my plastic spoon and pushed it back down. The only problem it caused was I wasted silicone, because the inside filled up. Avoid that by making sure your pieces are stuck down really well before you pour in the Silicone.

Let it set up

Don't try to clean up the cup and tools right now. Let them sit overnight. Most of it will set up and you can just peel it off. If you find you have any sticky spots of silicone gel, you can clean those off by dabbing them with a little Catalyst. That will make them set up and you should be able to peel it off.

Let the silicone set at least overnight, then just pull the Legos out of it. They will come out very easily. Let it set up for 24 hours before you use it. I put mine in the oven at 175 degrees for about 15 minutes after it had already been curing for 24 hours, just to make sure. It might not have been the right thing to do (I should have asked Douglas and Sturgess) but I knew they did that with some of the other silicones.

After you get the Legos out, just trim off any of the little bits that squeezed between the pieces. Wash the mold and you are ready to go.

Now if you will excuse me, I have to go rebuild the Taj Mahal.
Great Instructable!&nbsp; I purchased my silicone from http://www.makeyourownmolds.com/ - I used their CopyFlex.&nbsp; The only two reasons I used theirs is because the mix is a 1-to-1 ratio so I don't have to worry about how precise I am with it and they are in Cincinnati, so shipping was substantially cheaper for me here in the U.S. midwest.&nbsp; 1 lb. was perfect for the size of the mold I made.&nbsp; I first used a little paintbrush to paint the silicone onto the lego pieces just to make sure that there was no air bubbles around the pieces themselves.&nbsp; I&nbsp;tried to make a gummy lego dude, which actually worked better than I thought it would!&nbsp; But I had to do some trimming with a knife to cut him free from the silicone and give access to free the gummy from the silicone later, but it worked pretty well.<br /> <br /> The recipe you give for the gummies was perfect.&nbsp; I tried yours and another I found online and yours worked much better.&nbsp; Had a lot of trouble getting them clear though.&nbsp; They ended up pretty cloudy.&nbsp; Added a few pictures.&nbsp; Thanks again!&nbsp; Great instructable!
Do you by any chance still have the Lego mold? I'm having tons of trouble with mine.
That is so incredibly awesome. People ask about the lego guy a lot.<br><br>Here is how I make them perfectly clear:<br>I crush the vitamin c, dissolve it in water, let it drip through a coffee filter, then use the resulting clear liquid to sour the candies. <br><br>If it isn't the vitamin c making them cloudy, then it is probably because you are stirring too vigorously. You have to be very careful not to push air down into the syrup when stirring. Don't ever stir the foam back into the candy. <br><br>The other cloudy problem is from not letting it melt long enough. Just let it sit and mello in the boiler. The longer it stays, the more clear liquid gathers on the bottom.
How did that copyflex work? is it worth the 22 bucks?<br />
I thought it worked great for this.&nbsp; It was easy to mix and pretty quick to set up.&nbsp; I'd recommend it.<br />
Thanks! I saw some other kinds but this looked the best and easiest to use. I'll have to try it!<br />
Wow, I like the gummi man :)<br /> I had seen that website before but unfortunately the postage for me was $36 for 1lb, still haven't found anywhere else that sells it and I'm desperate to make these. I tried emailing Douglas and Sturgess about postage but they've not bothered to reply :(<br /> <br /> If anyone knows other places that sell the silicone please let me know.<br />
The price at Douglas and Sturgess would be about the same.<br /> <br /> Sorry they haven't replied to your question. I think they are set up more as a business to business supplier, but they do have 1 retail store and it is here in San Francisco. I think <em>most</em> of the materials they ship out of their warehouse and over the website are larger industrial quantities. That isn't to say they should neglect you. I'm sorry that happened.<br /> <br /> The guys in the store are Awesome. I'm sure it was just an oversight. (I thought I'd replied to you days ago but just realized it hadn't posted!)<br /> <br /> Thanks<br />
This is so awesome. I saw the comment on my phone and it didn't reveal there were PHOTOS. I love it. <br /> <br /> The lego man is great!<br /> <br /> Thank you for your tips and sharing the photos. <br /> <br /> I added <strong>Step 5 </strong>that details the process I came up with that makes almost perfectly clear candies.<br /> <br /> Thanks<br />
Here is a video based on this instructable. Hope everyone enjoys it.<br>https://vimeo.com/36217289
Awesome work. Thanks
do i need the knox gelatin <br>what happens if i dont use it ?
Just was at douglasandsturgess.com and looks like their &quot;Food Grade Silicone, 1 lb.&quot; has the purchase number &quot;<font face="Arial, Helvetica" size="-1">Code: <b>MC-1287</b></font>&quot;. <br /> <br /> Also, glad to know someone else out there calls them &quot;kitchen scissors&quot; too!<br /> <br />
hahaha I thought Kitchen Scissors was universal. I have sewing scissors too. Paper dulls scissors, so you never ever cut paper with your fabric scissors. You can cut hair with your fabric scissors though.<br><br>Thanks for the code update. It has changed a few times.
Just to let you know, douglas and sturgess have the silicone on their wbsite now. here is the <a href="http://www.douglasandsturgess.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&amp;Store_Code=DAS&amp;Product_Code=MC-1287&amp;Category_Code=FLEXMOLD-SILICONE" rel="nofollow">link</a>.<br />
Here are a few pictures from my moldmaking process.&nbsp; The first is the Lego grid I built.&nbsp; As mentioned on the main comment page I worked the volume out by counting bricks and figuring out the volume.&nbsp; A 1 lb. container of silicone filled it perfectly.&nbsp; Incidentally when I mixed it by weight, I had some of the smaller container left over, probably because I didn't scrape out the big container well enough.&nbsp; The next two pics are just after combining the two parts, and then what it looks like mixed together.&nbsp; I didn't use anything high tech for this, just a plastic knife.&nbsp; There were a fair amount of bubbles in the mix, but I&nbsp;ignored them.&nbsp; When I started pouring the mold, it wasn't moving exactly like I wanted it to.&nbsp; I did a fair amount of nudging it into place with the knife.&nbsp; As slow as it is to move, though, it will indeed fill all the voids and level out if you're patient.&nbsp; You can see some of the larger bubbles in the last picture.&nbsp; I obsessed over the bubbles, but all the big ones worked themselves out.&nbsp; There will be some microscopic ones left all over the bottom, but they don't matter.&nbsp; All of this was done with no prior experience or knowledge except for SFHandyman's instructions, and the mold turned out great.&nbsp; If you're thinking about trying this instructable out, I urge you to do so.&nbsp; It's a lot of fun.<br />
Made the mold and then tried using the recipe via Grant thimpson's YouTube video, and now will be trying this. Neither instructions say you need to spray your mold (in fact this one specifically says you don't need to), but my gummies definitely stuck like mad to the mold even after sitting overnight (I used the Lego plate cover as suggested by Grant, with oil brushed on it, and the plate came off fine). Are you sure no spray is required for the mold? I had just made the mold and pulled it out of its cast maybe 30m earlier, maybe that was the problem? It felt perfectly set up... <br><br>Also, neither video nor instructable to my knowledge says what size packet of jello to use. There are big ones now, not just for pudding. I stopped the video and looked closely and saw its the smaller size jello packet. I thought it might be the bigger one in this case though because some recipes use the bigger ones for jigglers, and thought the same would apply here.<br><br>Anyway, lessons learned. I'll be trying again this morning and I will be spraying the mold lightly first just to be safe. Want to make sure this batch comes out well for my 9 year old. :) <br><br>Any ideas as to why my first gummies stuck would be greatly appreciated!
<p>you see the little dimples on the side and around the brick moulds? When u fill up the brick moulds u can place the same plate (just without the bricks on it) on top brushed with vegetable oil and the bricks will be build able!</p>
<p>Have you tried Allavsoft? It can easily and fast batch download video from Vimeo, YouTube, Dailymotion, Facebook, Xvideo, etc.<br> <br></p><p>Here is the step by step guide at http://www.allavsoft.com/how-to/vimeo-downloader.html</p>
Please help me! I'm having a very hard time with this! Lego people come out awesome. But are sticky even after 5 hours. Lego blocks stuck to the mold and they messed up when I tried to take them out. Please help!
I'm having a VERY hard time with this project. Can you please help me??
Hey there!! I loved your idea and I have to ask you... Where did you get the lego bricks silicone?? I've got one but without the detail of down holes for assamblage, would you tell me where to buy it?? Pleaaaseee!!!
<p>Got fiber and vitamin C tablets mixed up ...... </p>
do i need the knox gelatin
<p>Thank you for the recipe!<br>Do you have some kind of special trick to get them out of the old? I had a hard time getting them out... and when I managed to take them out, they were all broken...<br>Should I put some oil in the mold before the candy mix?</p>
I made mine using the large 6oz package of Jello, 4 packets of Knox gelatin and 1 packet of unsweetened Kool-Aid. Mixed it altogether little at a time to ensure dissolving of the gelatin; with approximately 1 cup of lukewarm water. <br>I make my own Meletonin gummies by pulverizing 30-45 milligrams of store bought Meletonin and 10 Hiland's &quot;Calms Forte&quot; tablets and dissolving the powder into the mixture prior to melting. Be sure to pour into a mold that will yield 60-90 pieces for .5mg of Meletonin.
Please does anyone make the lego molds i bough some online but are kinda big for gummies. I am willing to pay and pay fir shipping. My grandson would love these . If so please email bingomomva@yahoo.com thank you
Mayor email is hector_023@hotmail.con,hope tour coments
Mayor email is hector_023@hotmail.con,hope tour coments
Need a mold of this,howmuch costa me you to make it,and send it to M&eacute;xico
<p>I made it but I used different brands still worked though</p>
<p>well done that's looks stackable and edible yummy?</p>
<p>Made these and they are awesome. You can save a step by buying premade silcone trays like these <a href="http://www.brickloot.com/products/brick-ice-tray" rel="nofollow">http://www.brickloot.com/products/brick-ice-tray</a></p>
Can we get an alcohol infused recipe?!?!? :D
So, so, so, great. Thanks for superb instructions.
Wow, wow, wow, Thank you.
I have no other reason to get a metric scale. Have you ever made an extra silicone mold and sold them? I know it sounds lazy, trust I'm not that way I just can't justify spending even $5 for a single project then never using it again. I would like to make Lego gummies and ice cubes just for fun.
<p>Lego makes some, actually. The brick-shaped ones aren't always available, but the minifigure-shaped ones tend to be. Plus, if you live near a Lego store, some of them have the brick-shaped molds in stock.</p><p>http://search-en.lego.com/?q=ice+cube+tray&amp;cc=US</p>
Wouldn't Myth Busters make their Ballistics Gel out of Knox like everyone else?
I'm pretty sure it's a special mix.
no they said on their show once that they used unflavored gelatin
<p>Knox is a brand of unflavored gelatin. ;) I use it for this stuff all the time.</p>
They likely use a product that when set, has the density and mass of a human body.
<p>If you live near a Lego store, you can make Lego gummy without having to make your own mold. Their brick- and minifigure-shaped ice cube trays make actual-sized Lego treats for a lot less money than buying the silicone.</p><p>But then you don't get to make your own mold yourself. So it's a tradeoff.</p>
<p>(semi)pro tip for crushing things when you don't have a mortar &amp; pestle: double-bag things to be crushed with ziploc plastic bags. Attack with rolling pin.</p>
&nbsp;It would be awesome to make some nes 8-bit sprite molds
<p>might do that :D</p>
Whoosh. That went right over my head. &quot;nes 8-bit sprite&quot;?<br><br>Go for it though. I don't know what they are but be creative and have fun.

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