Step 17: When to replace the wire feed's tip

Most often I use my wire feed welder to weld small pieces together with a spot or a tack. It is easy to point the gun at the exact spot where the weld is to be placed and then pull down the welding hood. An auto-darkening helmet is a tremendous help, and well worth the cost. In time the hole in the tip wears and exactly where the wire will strike the metal when the trigger is pulled becomes less predictable. There will be some problem, anyway, because the welding wire has a natural curve in it from being rolled on the spool. But, when you notice the wire is still less predictable as to where it will strike the metal, it is time to replace the copper tip.

The photo shows a 0.030 inch tip I have retired. I polished the end so the hole is more visible. Notice that it is no longer perfectly round. The welder worked better with a new tip and seemed to have a better arc.
<p>awesome Phil!</p><p>thanks!!</p>
Thanks. Avoid the temptation to pick up a piece of steel without tongs or gloves, It is probably hot and will burn you. Have fun and experiment. Practice, practice, practice. Prepare the work well so the welds go deep, and you will probably be fine. I probably should have taken some classes, but now there is a guy who pays me to weld some things for him. With wood you can make little ones out of big ones. With welding you can make big ones out of little ones. As soon as you can, get an auto darkening hood.
I already have it! eheh! bought two years ago and never used :(
<p>Auto-darkening helmets, even those that are solar powered, do contain batteries. In my experience, old batteries are weaker and the lens will be darker in use than it is supposed to be, making it more difficult to see properly while welding. Some helmets are made so the user can easily replace the batteries as needed. For those sealed with batteries inside there are videos and other items on the Internet that show how to open the sealed area and replace the batteries. Some add a battery holder for the more common and easily replaceable AAA or AA batteries rather than the 2025 or 2032 &quot;coin&quot; batteries.</p>
<p>I'm quite sure that my helmet only use &quot;solar&quot; power from the welding spark :-)</p>
<p>Thank You for educating new people! </p>
I am not at all advanced, myself. It is good to help those who are starting. Maybe it will be easier for them than it was the rest of us. Thank you for looking.
thank u sir<br>
Thank you for looking. In part, I share things like this so I can remember everything later when I forget something.
could you post next about to make our own circuits or design our own circuit.(only if you like)
<p>Falstad has a circuit applet anyone can use online. With it you can try various circuits to see how different components change them, and whether they work or not. The applet does not include integrated circuit chips, but regular discrete components. Go to falstad (dot) com/circuit.</p><p>The U.S. Navy has a course on electronics. A 1995 version is available for downloading on-line, and is not difficult to find. There are lots of electronics blogs and pages. Learn about basic circuits, like amplifiers. Combine them with other circuits and adapt them to see what you can do with them. </p><p>I know only a very little about electronics. </p>
thanks for your replying my question
what things are used for gas welding
<p>You need a good torch set with gauges, hose, and tanks. Many an arc welder costs less money to get started. A pair of goggles is sufficient and less costly than the nice self-darkening hoods needed for arc welding.</p>
<p>Thank you for taking the time to post this. I have been welding for about a year plus: self-taught from reading books, talking with real weldors, youtube videos and online articles like this and of course the best practice - actually welding. This is an excellent article. I really liked your heat warping diagram and the way you explained that. I knew there was a better way to approach this problem and I will implement some principles you made clear. I noticed you are in Vancouver - I'm not far, just over the Glenn Jackson Bridge in Portland. Thanks again!</p>
Ben,<br><br>Thank you for your comment. My welding education has been very much like yours. I wanted both to catalog what I had learned for my own record to consult later, and to share it with those who might find it helpful. More welding would certainly help me. But, I do not have unlimited supplies of steel for practice, nor do I have regular projects. <br><br>A few years ago we had purchased our present house not too far from where I-5 and I-205 join together again in the north end of Vancouver. I was attending meetings about four times a year at The Clarion on Airport Way. I rode my bicycle down from our house and got onto the bicycle lanes down the middle of the Glenn-Jackson Bridge. Since we actually moved to Vancouver, an encounter with skin cancer has caused me to cut back on exposure to sunlight and bicycling. <br><br>It might be fun to meet sometime.
This is welding of mild steel. Could you please comment on its quality? Thanks.
<p>I am not qualified to comment. Perhaps some others with more experience can comment more accurately.</p>
<p>Hello every one, I have a welder that gets hot and stop passing current (stop welding) after less than a minute of welding what should I do to fix it ? !!</p>
For starters, I would put an appropriate meter on the cord that pugs into the outlet and check the current draw. How does that compare with the rating on the label? If the actual current draw is considerably higher than the rated current draw, you will need to determine why. At the least something could be frayed and shorting. At the worst the transformer windings could be shorted, and that could require a replacement. Unless the problem is something simple and easy to fix, you probably need to take it to someone who repairs that make.
<p>Ok Phil, once I am home I will try and open it, and try to figure what's the problem with it, maybe as you said it's the transformer winding I think ! <br>Thanks a lot!</p>
<p>if you can check against a working copy of your welder, you can make a precise measurement of the resistance in each winding and compare the two welders. I doubt you can do much other than replace the transformer, if that is truly the problem. What type and make of welder is it?</p>
Invaluable!<br> <br> Found this via your new &quot;<a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Never-Again-Weld-a-Crooked-Bead/" rel="nofollow">Never Weld a crooked Bead</a>&quot; instructable. Keep up the good work! And Thanks again!
<p>Thank you for your comment. I am sorry I missed it until now. If you have ever seen The Red Green Show on PBS, you know the expression, &quot;We're all in this together!&quot;</p>
In all reality limiting welds to &lt;=3in would be ideal to prevent warping
I've heard you should not put the cable over your shoulder because of the magnetic field or something. I think I read it in some other 'ible and a welding safety guide too.
its not so much emf as if your cable has a nick in the insulation and you bump up against a grounded piece of metal it will give you quite a shock. most dc welders (as far as i know, i could be wrong) don't put out that much emf.
I suppose that could be. I do not know. I probably do that five times a year and then for only a few minutes each time. I probably have more to worry about from my cell phone, which I do not use very often, either. Perhaps some others will be able to add something on this. Thank you for looking and for commenting.
I did find a<a href="http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/archive/index.php/t-21949.html"> forum discussion</a> on hanging the welding cable over an arm or a shoulder. Most of the concern related to becoming tangled in the cables as a tripping hazard. There was some concern related to electromagnetic fields and heart pacemakers. There was also a concern for possible yet unknown health effects. One person posting quoted some guidelines from Lincoln that discouraged hanging cables over one's shoulder, but no explanation or reason was given.
I'm not too concerned about all the hype over long term effects of EMFs in cell phones and microwave ovens yet (the studies are mostly inconclusive or sketchy); what I read said that doing that could stop your heart. It didn't mention pacemakers specifically, so I'm not sure if your heart would be at risk without a pacemaker.
My father had a small electrical business. I was his helper during high school. The danger was always considered to be an electrical current that flowed across the chest cavity and the heart, either from one arm to the other, or from one arm to the other leg. Only a surprisingly few milliamps were needed to be fatal. But, that is much different from a nearby EMF.<br><br>While the heart beats as a result of electrical activity duplicated in a pacemaker, an EMF would, I believe, be unlikely to produce an arresting current flow across the heart. I simply do not know if a heart could be stopped by a close proximity EMF. It would seem the presence of a metal would be required. Perhaps someone reading this has more and better information.
I found <a href="http://www.magnopro-usa.com/research/Electromagnetic-Fields-and-the-Heart.pdf">this article</a> on the effects of EMFs on living tissue. It does not sound like an EMF from a welder operating on 60 Hz alternating current is likely to stop a heart, but it may produce tissue changes over time that result in heart disease. Other hits mentioned type 3 diabetes caused by EMFs.
Phil strikes yet again like a Thunderbolt from on high! Now I have to ask, you do know that you can tap start stick arcs too right? Match dragging is total rookie material. I was done with that stuff by my third bead.<br> <br> What bugs me the most when I weld is a phenomenon I like to call &quot;back lighting&quot;, where reflected light off my lens makes it more difficult for me to see while I am welding. I have an extra leather bib for my summer welding jacket that I throw over the top of my hood to cut it down.<br> <br> Although doing so does tend to make my hood fog up fast. So I should invent the hood awning and retire a multi gazillionare!<br> <br> My spark box:<br> <br> <br>
Color me a rookie. I tried the tapping method a couple of times and always stuck the rod, so I stayed with what I know. Also, this Instructable is for someone who is just beginning, so the easiest method seems OK.
I've been giving this a bit of thought lately and I have come to the conclusion that my machine just may have a bit better an arc starter in it than most welders usually have due to the fact that is a TIG/Stick welder.<br><br>The engineers at Miller looked at each other and said you know if we throw a heavy lead on this puppy it ought to stick weld OK too. The marketers smiled and nodded.<br><br>I mean sometimes all I have to do is get the rod close and I'm ignited. But this is the only machine I've ever stick welded with so are they all like that?
most stick tig combos have what is called hot start which jacks up amperage like 15 to 20% to make starting electrodes easier. regardless i still preferred my dialarc to my sycrowave for stick welding until i was given a xmt 350 that does mig tig and stick. match stike technique is the only technique i use in the shop for lighting off my electrodes
Running DC stick weld is very easy to tap start. With AC current you are fighting the POS/NEG 60Hz switching and the rod wants to stick. I think the old Tombstone Lincolns were AC.
Yes, those Lincoln welders are AC. Many guys who want to weld are doing it on a budget and do not feel they can afford or justify the extra cost of a DC welder or DC conversion unit. Right or wrong, a lot of fellows will struggle on with AC. Thank you for your comment.
Welding is a lot like taking a trip, you can travel in luxury first class, or ride in steerage. In the end I suppose we all get to the same place, but perceptions of the experience may differ radically.<br><br>With effort one can alter their perspective, but not all are amenable to the techniques involved. Within us all is the power to make our dreams real. What many lack though is the will to persevere. Will don't work cheap either!<br><br>
My welder must have a decent arc starter in it. I have no problems tapping AC or DC.
It is nice that your welder is TIG ready. My Miller is about 1975 vintage. It has a crank wheel on top for infinitely variable amperage settings, unlike the famous Lincoln &quot;tombstone&quot; welder that has a few click settings. I will have to try the tap method again while playing with the amperage output.
Well I sold my first MIG welder, a Tractor Supply Company branded Campbell Hausfeld. It NEVER fed the wire smoothly. I bought a new Hobart Handler 140 (120 VAC) and boy what a difference! TSC brand was $150...Hobart $500 and well worth it! That sucker lays down a smooth bead like warm butter on hot toast. I'm building an anvil out of railroad rail and welded a 3/8&quot; plate on top and it went together very nicely. Yes you do get what you pay for.

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Bio: I miss the days when magazines like Popular Mechanics had all sorts of DIY projects for making and repairing just about everything. I am enjoying ... More »
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