Step 6: Staining and finishing

Stain can be some tricky business, you only get one shot (unless you are after black). I decided on a nice acorn brown to compliment my brass watch and hardware. I highly recommend wearing gloves for this step. I apologize for the quality and lack of images, this was done at about 1 am Saturday morning...

Protect your work surface. Shake up your bottle, AFTER confirming the integrity of your bottle's cap. Dip a paper towel, or clean rag into the stain, you only need a spot. Apply to a scrap piece of leather. MAKE SURE IT'S WHAT YOU WANT!! Water based dye takes a moment to set in, but that doesn't mean slap it on and leave it. In a fluid, circular motion (due to the small size of this project just make horizontal strokes, I recommend circular on bigger items such as wallets purses etc..) apply the dye to the item, then wipe it off with a clean rag/paper towel from where you began. Wipe on, wipe off. Repeat. Continue until it reaches the color you want. Let it set for about 3 minutes at room temperature. Then buff with a clean paper towel. If it's too light, you can apply more, if too dark, to bad.

I highly recommend applying Neatsfoot Oil, it helps seal and protect the leather. It darkens leather slightly, you can forgo dying in favor of an oil finish.

After 24 hours, the leather can be sealed with boot polish. Dab some onto a clean cloth and have fun buffing. Moar buff, moar shine. This should be done monthly to keep the leather in good condition.
<p>i hope you're still active on this years old thread!<br>i'm looking to start this project and am shopping for leather on tandy's website.<br>do you know if the leather remnants available on the site are large enough for this project? i've never shopped with them before and am unsure if they're really going to be tiny scraps, or if they're generally long and wide enough for a cuff</p>
<p>tandy remnants are usually thin (max 1/4&quot;) and vary in length </p>
The remnant big are literally a mixed bag of scraps. They tend to be a little thicker. I used their small sheet, it's about 5oz leather and I believe it's 8 1/2 x 11. A lot of craft stores sell those small pieces too (Michael's, Hobby Lobby).
iv got to say. that is a beautiful watch with either strap. what kid of watch is it?
oh i see this was asked several times
Great instructable. This is better than most books I have on leather working. Thanks.
wowwwww... its so damn lovely :D
WOW! this is amazing
Where did you get that watch and about how much was it?
&nbsp;what kind of watch is this?
<a rel="nofollow">17453/<br /> I received it as a gift.<br /> </a><br />
Very Steampunk-ish. Do you know the brand?
Yeah it's from Stauer. they have some decent timepieces for relatively less expensive.
where do you get the leather?
Tandy Leather Factory <br>http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/home.aspx
I'm a vegetarian but I'm always in for some leather wear
instead of using snaps why dont you try buckles next timebig or small the always look great
I really like your Leather 101 tutorial. It is very clear and well explained. My kids like the 3D stamps you used in this section, but have a difficult time hitting the stamp correctly and repeatedly.<br> <br> I purchased a 1 ton <a href="http://www.southern-tool.com/store/media/dake/press-single-lev-arbor.jpg">arbour press</a> for about $30. You put the cased leather down, then the 3D stamp, then the arbour press head presses the 3d stamp. In this way even my 5 year old can safely and very effectively make excellent impressions with 3D and letter stamps.<br> <br> With the 1 ton arbour press it is easy to press down too hard with small stamps and letters on thin leather, even for a 5 year old. You need to practice not putting your whole weight on the press, though it is so tempting. Tandy Leather sells something similar for $200, but has more gadgets.<br>
Thanks!!<br><br>Presses can indeed produce excellent, and consistent stamps, however I can honestly say I've never used one other than the Tandy version, I did not know they could be had so cheaply.<br><br>Thanks for the input!
I know I already posted but I just thought of something (3 months later but still)<br /> If you put a leather flap over the watch it would look alot like Captain Jack's time travel/teleport&nbsp;device!
I still can't find my leather box unfortunatly and I've got no money to buy more:(
You. Are my new favorite person.<br /> I don't even know how long I've been wanting to do bracelets like that and I had no idea how to. Thank you!<br /> Even more awesome is the shop you linked, the only good one I could find that ships to my place!<br /> <br />
&nbsp;Thanks! Yeah, Tandy Leather is pretty much the undisputed leader of leather craft stuff.
I can't wait to make one of these. I'm going to make on with BFS. (BigFreakin' Spikes)<br />
&nbsp;SPikes are awesome, they mostly have screw in backs.
I like the kind with little prongs on the back that you hammer down.<br />
&nbsp;In my experience prongs don't last as well as screw or rivet.
Can you get ones with rivets? I've never seen them.<br />
Shop around. They make tons of styles that rivet in place. I know studsandspikes.com has plenty of interesting designs though they do tend to be a wee bit overpriced at times.<br />
&nbsp;The screw rivets in and your screw the spike onto the rivet.
Two small bits of advice from a leather working professional.<br /> <br /> 1. You should to learn to dress and burnish your edges (someone at your local leather supply shop SHOULD be able to show you at least one of the methods). Doing this will make the bands more comfortable, will make them look nicer/more professional, and will make them more durable.<br /> <br /> 2. The &quot;rivets&quot;&nbsp;you're using are called cap rivets, and they're really kind of crap. When the tube mushrooms out to fill the cap, that thin metal splits &amp; cracks and the chrome flakes off. Then the cracks spread (no matter what kind of metal they are) causing them to fall apart or they tend rust from the inside out (unless you specifically can find ones that are plated brass, but usually they're chromed or plated steel). Search around online and shell out for real, solid shank rivets. They cost a bit more and are a little harder to learn to put in, but the extra durability (and looks in some cases) is more than worth it.<br />
Awesome, looks very professional! Nice job. 5 stars and voted!
You have very tiny nails.
They cause less pain in certain situations :P
Such as?
Oh you know, *ahem* intimate times...<br/>
Ahh, I see. Well, that's kinda true, unless the girl has a knack for pain.... (if you don't get what I mean by that, I'll send you a PM)
&nbsp;um, wow. who knew you can turn an instructable on a watch to a discussion about baby makin'... lmao! good -able though
Of course you can. Impossible is nothing!<br />
I love the lace idea. I am allergic to most of the snaps so lacing them up is the perfect alternative. I do wish you were a little more descriptive in that regard but I guess I can figure it out on my own anyway.
&nbsp;Did you look at the pattern pdf I have attached? I couldnt think of a good way to word it, but I have a simplistic diagram that should help.
I'm amazed no one else noticed this but that watch looks totally steampunk!!<br /> <br /> I will have to do this once I find my box of scrap leather<br />
&nbsp;Yea, I wondered when somebody would mention it...<br /> <br /> Post pics of the finished watch!<br />
Very well made instructable. I love the watch!
I like the surface made irregular by stamping. Great work!
Leather working 101, clear and well explained. Thanks a lot my Friend, I had bought a watch with this exact idea in mind and did not know where to start :)

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Bio: Holy cow, celebrating over seven years with this website. Formerly known as RocketScientist2015.
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