I saw this idea in a '60s leather work book many years ago, it's great so the world should know. I haven't since been able to find the book, if anyone recognises it please post the reference.
Simply, you use metal files and/or a hack saw to work the head of a nail.
Materials:
- Nails
Tools:
- Metal file(s)
- Junior hacksaw
For tooling leather:
- Hammer
- Base to hammer against (sturdy wood block)
- Water
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Signing UpStep 1: Shape the nail head
The trickiest part of this is finding a nice design, it has to be fairly simple. Repeating patterns work well, squares, triangles, chevrons etc.
But today I fancy... Pacman!
Picture 1
File the nail head flat, then set to work on the edges...
Picture 2
The second picture shows the edge of the nail head has been filed so the top is sharper.
Picture 3
Then remove metal until your image is revealed. The use of a fine tipped permanent marker may help.
Picture 4
For Pacman I filed a wedge out of one side using the edge of a rectangular file then drilled a small hole with a fine bit. For the ghost three sides were filed flat, I cut in twice with the hacksaw on the base edge then opened the cut with a file.
Remember:
-Drilling metal always requires a centre to be punched so the bit can bite!
Once shaped you can cut the point of the nail off with a hacksaw as this is the end you will strike.








































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I had always heard that cut flooring nails or cut clasp nails (shown below) could have their larger end shaped for punches, gouges, etc.. Since they are designed to go through hardwood into pre-drilled masonry, these are strong enough to be hardened using the heat/quench process discussed below. They should hold a decent enough edge over time for working in soft wood or leather.
# 805, zodiac bull-------- # 829 Steer Head------- # 983 Motorcycle-------- and other interesting tools.
Have found several sites that have good selection of the tools but none of those which I currently have a need for.
Any assistance will be appreciated.
God Bless.
Ray
Each item produced some interesting effects, many when combined with others. Try rolling a large threaded bolt on cased veg tan leather. Nice effect. I used small 1 ton arbor press, available from Harbor Freight, for nearly everthing I have mentioned. Mallet works fine for many of the items as well. I am always seeking different items to use along with my commercially produced tools and it keeps this old man young, in some ways.
Try anything don't give up. You will have a ton of fun, especially when you create something that nobody else has produced.
Try pyrography on leather and another world opens up. Love doing art pieces on nveg tanned leather and then experimenting with dyes for color, from many different sources. Feel free to try it all and you will discover a niche.
LIVE, LOVE, AND HAVE FUN------------------
Just (outside) heat up the finished head to a nice yellow straw color with a propane torch and then drop the nail in a bucket of used motor oil. Try it and see.
Cordelin
If you want to harden nails, you should first try quenching in water, as that will likely be best. If that doesn't get it hard use a brine, salt dissolved into cold water, with a bit of dish soap. That will get any possible hardness out of the nail. Although it still might not work.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quench
You can get specialist quenching oils for industrial use but most people have a bottle of old motor oil laying around because it comes in handy from time to time.
Craig
Thanks to the advice I've now tried heating some on a camping stove to see if longevity will be increased. And I've also used one in my soldering iron to try some branding, first go it didn't get hot enough but I'll try cutting it down a little so there's less metal to loose heat.
Have fun
Craig
This is the same site that I downloaded my copy from and mistakenly placed my address on it and found myself completely inundated with too many requests to handle. Thank you all for your courtesy and consideration in this matter. It will be much faster for you to directly download it from the source. And, you will find a new source of Library books to download. This old mans fingers hurt from the typing. Thank you "Australia".
Good Luck in all your endeavors. Bill
Is that leather already dyed? I usually get the veg tanned leather, so I'm not familiar with the look of other tanning processes.
I don't think your leather was able to get quite wet enough to stamp as well as undyed leather.
i would think that you could make a sleeve that could insert the nail comfortably into and have it just short of the length of the nail so you can hold it firm yet hammer the nail through it and this will save the nail from wanting to bend plus give better control and save hurting hands.
it may mushroom and get hard to remove from the sleeve so taking it out and removing any mushroomed metal will prolong life.
other method would be to have a sleeve with solid end to use as a striker that will also give person holding it grip and comfort as above.
great designs by the way...
I think it should be said, however, that 'Proper' punches are made from hard brass round or square section rod. It can be a pig to work (it really is quite hard) but it's easier to polish and you have a bigger 'wrong' end (because the rod is the same size at both ends) to hit with the hammer, which helps get the punch go in vertically.
If you have the right equipment you can heat up the tip of the nail and upset it to give you a different shape to start with. I found that it helps if the finished tool tip is polished to a bright finish.
The leather you are testing on doesn't appear to be vegetable tanned tooling leather, it appears to be chrome tanned leather. This will cause poor impressions.
I really like your PacMan set. Very neat instructable!!!
How do they stand up to repated use? I had some tooling punches that lasted the previous owner for many years before me & I had them for a several years before they were stolen.