Step 2: Begin the Circular Base

Picture 1 (We're only using green rings for this part, so put the gold ones aside for later.)
1. Open your 16 ga. 5/16" ring*. Otherwise, open one of your 16 ga. 1/4" rings and set it aside. This will be your Base Ring.
2. Close 8 rings. Make sure they are closed all the way with the ends flush. Bad closures makes for weak and scratchy maille, which translates into lost and/or damaged dice, so pay close attention to your closures!
3. Put your 8 closed rings onto your Base Ring.
4. Close your base ring and arrange your rings as shown, with each ring overlapping the next. This is Row 1.

Picture 2 - Row 2
1. Open a small pile of rings. You're going to need a lot of open rings for the steps ahead. In fact, you might end up opening all of them, depending on your technique. So go ahead and make a little pile right now to use for the base.
2. Thread one of your rings through two of the Row 1 rings.
3. Close the ring.
4. This is the tricky to relate in words, but if you look at the picture it should make sense. Take another ring and thread it through one of the Row 1 rings you just wove into, and the Row 1 ring next to it that isn't yet connected to a Row 2 ring. Your two Row 2 rings should be sort of overlapping each other, sharing a Row 1 ring between them.
5. Continue in this manner with 6 more rings, being sure to keep your rings overlapping correctly, like flower petals. A common mistake is to accidentally have one ring be overlapped by both of its neighbors, or vice-versa. It's a good idea to check your orientation by setting your base down once you've finished and comparing it to the picture. This is something you're going to have to be mindful of with every step of the process, but don't worry; you'll settle into the groove after a couple of rows.

* Beginner's Note: Always open rings with a twisting motion. Do not grab the ends and pull the ring into a "C" shape. This weakens the metal and deforms the circular shape, which makes it pretty much impossible to close it back into a nice, clean circle. You want your open rings to look like part of a spring.
This is simultaneously 1) OUTSTANDING, and 2) possibly the geekiest instructable I've seen yet (and there are A LOT of geeky instructables, in case you hadn't noticed.) The triple-whammy of chain mail, dice bag, AND triforce is totally over the top. <br> <br>Keep up the terrific work, BTW. :) <br>
<p>Great little project! I found using pliers to be a bit clunky and irritating, so I just used my fingers. Admittedly, my fingers did need a little bit of a break once I was through with my bag! As you can see I went a little off pattern, mostly because the bags of rings I bought at the craft store had a lot of colors, and not quite enough of any of them to follow the triforce pattern. Still suitably geeky though, as you can see that is a DnD book under the bag in the first picture :)</p><p>One final note, I already had a friend ask me to make a bag for them. Considering how much these rings cost at Joann's I went looking for a cheaper source. RingLord is not bad, but American Chain Mail is a few dollars cheaper, and not a bad color selection either. </p>
Can scale mail be added to this? And how doess the dice hold up to the metal
<p>How many dice does this bag hold without any extensions?</p>
<p>I currently have 6 sets in the one I made.. with room for probably 3-4 more sets. (A set being the standard 7 polyhedral dice)</p>
<p>I'm very interested in getting into this and attempting to make something similar.I was pricing out the cost to make this and I figured out it would be around $30 in material. Making a basic dice bag with just bright aluminum you could almost get 4-5 bags for the same price and turn around and sell the extra's for $20-$30 apiece. <br>Unless I am not reading their site correctly (TheRingLord). I may use these instructions to make some basic bags first and then make this one. I may order enough to make 4 or 5 bags and see how it goes and to make it worth while for the shipping costs.</p>
<p>It looks like you switch overlapping directions between rows if that makes sense. Is that just for looks, or is there more of a reason behind it?</p>
<p>Nevermind, mine looks like that too. I think it just naturally happens. I'm not doing the triforce, but I'm so excited to finish this in the next few days!</p>
<p>I hope it turned out well for you. ^_^</p>
<p>I made a slightly smaller variation, using some different colors. Hope you like it!!</p><p>Made the main section 24 rings around, each triangle of the Tri-Force only has 5 rings, only did one decrease row down to 20 rings, and only used 5 tabs. Decided to go smaller since I carry less dice to my games (and I knew I'd be short on black rings!)</p>
<p>That looks great! I hope it works well for you.</p>
I just finished the chain mail section of my project. All I have left is the drawstring. It was great. I loved making it and the instructions were great. It is just in time for my first ever trip next week to the TX Ren Fest.
<p>Awesome! I'm glad you like it! ^_^</p>
Also, thank you for doing this! You are just as rad and then some!!
Aww, thanks! I'm glad you liked it. Keep on makin'!
Anybody at all any help would be appreciated I just want to finish this thing yet I can't.
Which step are you on exactly? I might be able to offer some advice on how to proceed.
I'm thinking, haven't you overestimated the number of rings a bit? In total, there's 232 for the base, 640 for the middle (40*16), and an estimated 80 for the top, which adds to around 950 rings in total (which I'll round up to 1000). There'd be 168 rings in the two Triforces (which I'll round up to 200, for ease of numbers), leaving only 800 green rings necessary, rather than the listed 1100. <br> <br>Otherwise, though, this is an awesome instructable, with good instructions (I'm using them myself), and I've been using it as an example of maille, dice bags, and awesomeness for quite a while :P
I put in more rings than needed in case of plier slippage damaging the anodization, ring loss from spills, spotty anodization, etc. It's also a good bit of wiggle room if you need a taller bag, or if you want to expand your bag later.
this instructable is absolutely well done, amazing job
So I'm trying to fill in the sides but I'm not exactly sure how to start and what to. Can anybody please help???
This was so rad to make!
Whoa. My brother would go nuts over something like this!!
Just finished making this. Thank you for the colored ring spacers and the clear details. I especially liked that you explained why instead of just how. Now I need more dice.
Do you think that this will work with rings of AR 4?
I don't see why not. It's not far off from what I'm using, but the base might be a bit dense when you start. You might need to use a different ring size as your base ring like I did in the tutorial.
I'm making this for my husband and I've gotten to row 7 and it feels crowded where I finished the last row. Something I've been a little confused about is if I'm supposed to try and join the end of one row to its beginning or does it just kind of overlap. Will this make a seam? If I made a mistake earlier on... I just might throw it out the window. : )
They should overlap like flower petals. And luckily chainmaille is very forgiving when it comes to mistakes. Just take out the rings above the oops, fix it, then fill in above it. I know I could give better advice if I could see a picture.
could you make other patterns like a shield or a insignia
Of course. I've made bags with runes, flowers, spirals... Just make sure it'll read well in the finished product and you're good.
chainmaille bikinis?
Yep. Many, many bikinis. Including the bottoms!
This isn't the part I find tedious... OPENING JUMP RINGS I find tedious. Seriously - I'm having nightmares about it.
loving the bikini <br>
I just finished this for a graduation present for a friend. I'd never done chain mail before, but this instructible was perfect! The bag came out amazing, it looks just like the pictures. Thank you!
Very interesting Ible. Whenever i make bags i usually do 2 squares and then join them. I'll have to give this a try. Thanks for the great Ible.
&quot; Panic at the sudden appearance of pink rings.&quot; <br> <br>Laughed so much:P so going to do this right now!!!!
So if I were to buy from the ring lord, what would I need to order to make a shirt? I can't decide what metal, and I don't know what/how much I need.
Hi, was in the sculpting team for masks, costumes and gadgets for a larger role playing group + spent a couple of years in re-enactment (early middle ages)... you will need a lot of rings! some tips: if you don't need to be concerned with historical accuracy: go for light metals... the weight adds up!! We used to make our own rings (cheaper!!) by simply rolling it around a stick and cutting them, you might need to finish the endings, but if you have time, patience and a tight budget it's the way to go! <br>Aluminium is light + shiny, but go to the local hardware store and check all the metal wires you can find... they shouldn't be too flexible. <br>One more tip, ones you finished you're shirt, it'll get dirty. if you clean it with a brush, it'll get a nice shadow/ airbrush effect... if you want it shiny like new... put it in an old fashioned potato bag with clean dry sand. close the bag and move it around... or even better invite you're ring lord friends and play some games throwing the bag around... it'll be like new :-) <br>and lastly... if you are going to wear this shirt, make sure you have a padded shirt under it!!! it'll keep you safe from hundreds of little bruises. <br> <br>PS Rabbit dance: brilliant design, loving it!!! I admit being a bit jealous I never thought about making gadgets like that!!
If you've never made chainmaille before I wouldn't recommend that you make a shirt right off the bat. I would compare it to volunteering to make Thanksgiving Dinner when you can hardly be trusted with a microwave (like me!) That's just my little warning, as rings can be expensive and it is a huge time investment.<br><br>Anyway, that said, here's what I recommend:<br>If you're making your shirt for costume purposes, go with bright aluminum. My husband does stage combat with a local theatre troupe and the bright aluminum maille shirt he wears looks great on stage! It's also light enough that he can do all the cool stage moves in it with no problems. Aluminum is a lot easier on the hands and the whole shirt weighs about 10 pounds. The steel shirts that I've made average around 30 pounds.<br>As for how much you need, that depends on the final shirt size, the design (total length, sleeves/no sleeves, etc) and what size ring you want to use. The Ring Lord has kits available with instructions on making shirts. Look in their &quot;Projects and Kits&quot; section and have a look at their Chainmaille Armor kits. If you like the look of what they have up, I'd say just buy the kit and maille away! If you want something different (like longer sleeves, a pattern inlay, etc) you can use their ring sets as a guide and buy your rings accordingly. There are plenty of shirt patterns out there too, so look around. I recommend mailleartisans.org and deviantart.com for inspiration in that respect.
What metal is cheapest/is best though? I was also planning on something more like a t-shirt that could be worn over my regular shirt.
could you add a felt lining to prevent scratching on dice?
this sounds both cool, rewarding, and hard
where did you buy the links?
I buy my rings from The Ring Lord in Canada. Their website is http://www.theringlord.com<br><br>The rings you see here are the machine-cut ones. I like the depth of color better as opposed to the saw-cut. If you want some heavier contrast between the Triforces and the background, you can get machine-cut green rings (which are slightly matte) and gold saw-cut rings (which are really shiny) for the Triforces. But be aware that saw-cut rings can be trickier to close because they have a wider kerf. It's not any more difficult, but it does take more time to do.
But the saw cut are cleaner to close if you have the time and experience. Personally, I avoid ordering the machine cut just because the ends are usually&nbsp;rough and choppy. That's just me, though.
I tumble all my rings whether they're saw or machine cut, and that takes any nasty bits right off.<br><br>But I do love the saw-cut rings, especially how seamless everything looks once they're put together. I only wish their colors were richer, else I would use them more. (They used to offer enamelled copper in 16 ga. Oh, how I miss those jewel tones!)
Oh, you're a lucky one with a tumbler. I have to do without (mainly 'cause I'm too cheap to buy one) so I stick with the saw cut.
This is SO amazing! I've only ever done a chainmaille bracelet before, but I'm desperate to give this a try and your instructions are so clear! Being in the UK though, I'm guessing it's going to cost a bit to get the pretty rings to me :(
OOOOOO AHHHHHH. I totally need to make this, but ... there are so many links!(pun intended)

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