Step 4: Assemble the Triforce!

Now you can pull out your gold rings, but keep your green ones handy. We'll still need them.
Before you begin: Open a bunch of gold rings and some green ones, but more gold than green.

Picture 1 - Begin the Triforce
Take 14 gold rings, and put them on the edge just like you were for all the rows before it. This is the base of your Triforce. I say 14 because I want some space between my Triforces (remember, there will be one on each side of the bag) and because I'm superstitious when it comes to gaming. Having 14 rings along the bottom means there will be seven rings at the base of each triangle that makes up the Triforce. Lucky!

Picture 2 - Row 2 of the Triforce
Add on 6 gold rings, 1 green ring, then 6 more gold rings. Your Triforce is well on its way! Just so you know, this row has 13 rings and your rows will naturally decrease in size by 1 ring as you go on until you end up with just one ring at the tip.

Picture 3 - Triforce Base
Like before, just keep adding in rings so they go through two rings under it. I hope the pattern is fairly easy to see here in the picture, but just in case it's not, here's a..

Row-by-Row Breakdown
Row 1 - 14 gold
Row 2 - 6 gold - 1 green - 6 gold
Row 3 - 5 gold - 2 green - 5 gold
Row 4 - 4 gold - 3 green - 4 gold
Row 5 - 3 gold - 4 green - 3 gold
Row 6 - 2 gold - 5 green - 2 gold
Row 7 - 1 gold - 6 green - 1 gold

Picture 4 - Triforce Top
You'll only need gold rings for this part. Start by adding on 7 gold rings. Keep going, decreasing each row until you reach the top and have only one gold ring left. Guess what? YOU MADE A TRIFORCE! Now turn your base around and do it again on the other side, making sure to have even space between your Triforces. You'll end up with a circular bit with two triangular flaps coming off the sides. Put it on your head; it's fun! ^_^

Is your base bigger?
That's okay! Just make the gold base rows wider. Keep in mind that it will have to be an even number of gold rings so you end up with two triangles that are the same size on the bottom. If you're not sure how wide to make it, fold your base in half and set it down. It'll kind of "bowl up" when you do it. Look at it. Use your eye to determine what "Looks Good" in terms of base size, and you're all set.

A Note about Construction:
There are several ways to go about this phase of construction. Some maillers go ring by ring, completing each row before they go on to the next. Others will start a brand new flat panel of maille and stitch it onto the base once they're finished. Still others like to do as we are here, by making a small panel with their pattern on it, and filling in the "background color" once their patterned area is done. I tailor my technique to the pattern I'm doing. Complex patterns get charted out and made flat, then stitched to the base. Simple geometric patterns are done row by row, and small panels of patterned inlay (like our Triforce here) are made individually before I fill the edges in. I guess what I'm really getting at is there are many ways to go about this. Just do what feels right for you. For this particular bag, this method is really easy to photograph.

Oh, and you have no idea how happy I am to use the phrase "Assemble the Triforce" in a legitimate fashion.
This is simultaneously 1) OUTSTANDING, and 2) possibly the geekiest instructable I've seen yet (and there are A LOT of geeky instructables, in case you hadn't noticed.) The triple-whammy of chain mail, dice bag, AND triforce is totally over the top. <br> <br>Keep up the terrific work, BTW. :) <br>
<p>Great little project! I found using pliers to be a bit clunky and irritating, so I just used my fingers. Admittedly, my fingers did need a little bit of a break once I was through with my bag! As you can see I went a little off pattern, mostly because the bags of rings I bought at the craft store had a lot of colors, and not quite enough of any of them to follow the triforce pattern. Still suitably geeky though, as you can see that is a DnD book under the bag in the first picture :)</p><p>One final note, I already had a friend ask me to make a bag for them. Considering how much these rings cost at Joann's I went looking for a cheaper source. RingLord is not bad, but American Chain Mail is a few dollars cheaper, and not a bad color selection either. </p>
Can scale mail be added to this? And how doess the dice hold up to the metal
<p>How many dice does this bag hold without any extensions?</p>
<p>I currently have 6 sets in the one I made.. with room for probably 3-4 more sets. (A set being the standard 7 polyhedral dice)</p>
<p>I'm very interested in getting into this and attempting to make something similar.I was pricing out the cost to make this and I figured out it would be around $30 in material. Making a basic dice bag with just bright aluminum you could almost get 4-5 bags for the same price and turn around and sell the extra's for $20-$30 apiece. <br>Unless I am not reading their site correctly (TheRingLord). I may use these instructions to make some basic bags first and then make this one. I may order enough to make 4 or 5 bags and see how it goes and to make it worth while for the shipping costs.</p>
<p>It looks like you switch overlapping directions between rows if that makes sense. Is that just for looks, or is there more of a reason behind it?</p>
<p>Nevermind, mine looks like that too. I think it just naturally happens. I'm not doing the triforce, but I'm so excited to finish this in the next few days!</p>
<p>I hope it turned out well for you. ^_^</p>
<p>I made a slightly smaller variation, using some different colors. Hope you like it!!</p><p>Made the main section 24 rings around, each triangle of the Tri-Force only has 5 rings, only did one decrease row down to 20 rings, and only used 5 tabs. Decided to go smaller since I carry less dice to my games (and I knew I'd be short on black rings!)</p>
<p>That looks great! I hope it works well for you.</p>
I just finished the chain mail section of my project. All I have left is the drawstring. It was great. I loved making it and the instructions were great. It is just in time for my first ever trip next week to the TX Ren Fest.
<p>Awesome! I'm glad you like it! ^_^</p>
Also, thank you for doing this! You are just as rad and then some!!
Aww, thanks! I'm glad you liked it. Keep on makin'!
Anybody at all any help would be appreciated I just want to finish this thing yet I can't.
Which step are you on exactly? I might be able to offer some advice on how to proceed.
I'm thinking, haven't you overestimated the number of rings a bit? In total, there's 232 for the base, 640 for the middle (40*16), and an estimated 80 for the top, which adds to around 950 rings in total (which I'll round up to 1000). There'd be 168 rings in the two Triforces (which I'll round up to 200, for ease of numbers), leaving only 800 green rings necessary, rather than the listed 1100. <br> <br>Otherwise, though, this is an awesome instructable, with good instructions (I'm using them myself), and I've been using it as an example of maille, dice bags, and awesomeness for quite a while :P
I put in more rings than needed in case of plier slippage damaging the anodization, ring loss from spills, spotty anodization, etc. It's also a good bit of wiggle room if you need a taller bag, or if you want to expand your bag later.
this instructable is absolutely well done, amazing job
So I'm trying to fill in the sides but I'm not exactly sure how to start and what to. Can anybody please help???
This was so rad to make!
Whoa. My brother would go nuts over something like this!!
Just finished making this. Thank you for the colored ring spacers and the clear details. I especially liked that you explained why instead of just how. Now I need more dice.
Do you think that this will work with rings of AR 4?
I don't see why not. It's not far off from what I'm using, but the base might be a bit dense when you start. You might need to use a different ring size as your base ring like I did in the tutorial.
I'm making this for my husband and I've gotten to row 7 and it feels crowded where I finished the last row. Something I've been a little confused about is if I'm supposed to try and join the end of one row to its beginning or does it just kind of overlap. Will this make a seam? If I made a mistake earlier on... I just might throw it out the window. : )
They should overlap like flower petals. And luckily chainmaille is very forgiving when it comes to mistakes. Just take out the rings above the oops, fix it, then fill in above it. I know I could give better advice if I could see a picture.
could you make other patterns like a shield or a insignia
Of course. I've made bags with runes, flowers, spirals... Just make sure it'll read well in the finished product and you're good.
chainmaille bikinis?
Yep. Many, many bikinis. Including the bottoms!
This isn't the part I find tedious... OPENING JUMP RINGS I find tedious. Seriously - I'm having nightmares about it.
loving the bikini <br>
I just finished this for a graduation present for a friend. I'd never done chain mail before, but this instructible was perfect! The bag came out amazing, it looks just like the pictures. Thank you!
Very interesting Ible. Whenever i make bags i usually do 2 squares and then join them. I'll have to give this a try. Thanks for the great Ible.
&quot; Panic at the sudden appearance of pink rings.&quot; <br> <br>Laughed so much:P so going to do this right now!!!!
So if I were to buy from the ring lord, what would I need to order to make a shirt? I can't decide what metal, and I don't know what/how much I need.
Hi, was in the sculpting team for masks, costumes and gadgets for a larger role playing group + spent a couple of years in re-enactment (early middle ages)... you will need a lot of rings! some tips: if you don't need to be concerned with historical accuracy: go for light metals... the weight adds up!! We used to make our own rings (cheaper!!) by simply rolling it around a stick and cutting them, you might need to finish the endings, but if you have time, patience and a tight budget it's the way to go! <br>Aluminium is light + shiny, but go to the local hardware store and check all the metal wires you can find... they shouldn't be too flexible. <br>One more tip, ones you finished you're shirt, it'll get dirty. if you clean it with a brush, it'll get a nice shadow/ airbrush effect... if you want it shiny like new... put it in an old fashioned potato bag with clean dry sand. close the bag and move it around... or even better invite you're ring lord friends and play some games throwing the bag around... it'll be like new :-) <br>and lastly... if you are going to wear this shirt, make sure you have a padded shirt under it!!! it'll keep you safe from hundreds of little bruises. <br> <br>PS Rabbit dance: brilliant design, loving it!!! I admit being a bit jealous I never thought about making gadgets like that!!
If you've never made chainmaille before I wouldn't recommend that you make a shirt right off the bat. I would compare it to volunteering to make Thanksgiving Dinner when you can hardly be trusted with a microwave (like me!) That's just my little warning, as rings can be expensive and it is a huge time investment.<br><br>Anyway, that said, here's what I recommend:<br>If you're making your shirt for costume purposes, go with bright aluminum. My husband does stage combat with a local theatre troupe and the bright aluminum maille shirt he wears looks great on stage! It's also light enough that he can do all the cool stage moves in it with no problems. Aluminum is a lot easier on the hands and the whole shirt weighs about 10 pounds. The steel shirts that I've made average around 30 pounds.<br>As for how much you need, that depends on the final shirt size, the design (total length, sleeves/no sleeves, etc) and what size ring you want to use. The Ring Lord has kits available with instructions on making shirts. Look in their &quot;Projects and Kits&quot; section and have a look at their Chainmaille Armor kits. If you like the look of what they have up, I'd say just buy the kit and maille away! If you want something different (like longer sleeves, a pattern inlay, etc) you can use their ring sets as a guide and buy your rings accordingly. There are plenty of shirt patterns out there too, so look around. I recommend mailleartisans.org and deviantart.com for inspiration in that respect.
What metal is cheapest/is best though? I was also planning on something more like a t-shirt that could be worn over my regular shirt.
could you add a felt lining to prevent scratching on dice?
this sounds both cool, rewarding, and hard
where did you buy the links?
I buy my rings from The Ring Lord in Canada. Their website is http://www.theringlord.com<br><br>The rings you see here are the machine-cut ones. I like the depth of color better as opposed to the saw-cut. If you want some heavier contrast between the Triforces and the background, you can get machine-cut green rings (which are slightly matte) and gold saw-cut rings (which are really shiny) for the Triforces. But be aware that saw-cut rings can be trickier to close because they have a wider kerf. It's not any more difficult, but it does take more time to do.
But the saw cut are cleaner to close if you have the time and experience. Personally, I avoid ordering the machine cut just because the ends are usually&nbsp;rough and choppy. That's just me, though.
I tumble all my rings whether they're saw or machine cut, and that takes any nasty bits right off.<br><br>But I do love the saw-cut rings, especially how seamless everything looks once they're put together. I only wish their colors were richer, else I would use them more. (They used to offer enamelled copper in 16 ga. Oh, how I miss those jewel tones!)
Oh, you're a lucky one with a tumbler. I have to do without (mainly 'cause I'm too cheap to buy one) so I stick with the saw cut.
This is SO amazing! I've only ever done a chainmaille bracelet before, but I'm desperate to give this a try and your instructions are so clear! Being in the UK though, I'm guessing it's going to cost a bit to get the pretty rings to me :(
OOOOOO AHHHHHH. I totally need to make this, but ... there are so many links!(pun intended)

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