Introduction: Let's Build a Fixed Angle Knive Sharpener
There are loads of very nice 'ibles on how to make knives.
Thus I will not bore you with more of that.
There are also a bit of 'ibles on knive sharpeners.
Mostly, they look a bit big and/or over complicated in my opinion.
Some have nice points though, so do check them out before you decide to make one.
Here are some.
The need arise for many a aspiring knife makers to give that new extension of the soul a honing edge to befit its greatnesness.
Some people have bought sets for that.
Or you can go buy one, but it will set you back quite a bit of money.
Lansky is one make, not excessively expensive, if you need to ask a google what I am talking about.
Or you can make one that works not bad at all.
For a fraction of the cost too.
Sounds like your pint of brew?
Do read on.
Step 1: Main Ingredients and Equipment
You will need a sandstone block or a whetstone or something else maybe.
Sandstone can be found at many many places, for free sometimes, I highly recommend it.
Some nice and strong neodymium magnets, Also known as rear earth magnets.
You might be able to repurpose a junk yard electro magnet to this cause if you are desperate.
But be sure to send me pictures of the results.
Some form of measuring degrees
Stiff thin rod, I used a copper brazing rod.
Some thin planks to mount it on. Various things will work there I guess.
Right angle bracket, used to put shelves against walls.
Aka Super glue.
Sodium hydrogen carbonate.
Aka Baking soda, bicarbonate of soda, sodium bicarbonate.
Possibly, a knife, believe it or not.
Most can be done with a simple grinder or file even and a saw I'm sure.
Step 2: Safety
This is all hypothetical.
None of this should be tried at all.
Especially the bits requiring power tools, chemical reactions, sharp or blunt knives and, you know, brains.
Step 3: Starting Out
Fasten the rare earth magnets with P-R-P
Add thin layers bicarbonate of soda, and add drops of Cyanoacrylate.
Check this link out to see in detail descriptions about it if you need to learn more.
Step 4: Get or Make a Sharpening Stone
Cut a few strips sand stone from a block.
I used a granite blade on a small hand angle grinder, and really, it was very very easy and quick.
I flattened it afterwards on a belt sander in seconds.
Cut a few for spares.
If you can get different gritted stones, it will be awesome.
Step 5: Preparing the Stone
Using a belt sander, I took off some of the brazing rod's material.
The P-R-P will hold everything better together this way.
I also flattened the part of the rod that fits to the sandstone. It will secure it better.
P-R-P it good.
I took excess P-R-P off with a bench grinder afterwards
and buffed it up a bit.
The dark-look, is from the buff.
I think I buffed the knife on it previously and it had some wax on it still.
Anyhoo, I liked the darkness, and did it all over, except the bottom working part.
Step 6: Angle of Attack
Knife that I designed this for is on the magnets.
30 degree triangle to get the angle I want.
I will not get entranced into discussions about angles.
I picked it.
Pick your own if you wish.
Notice the mark where I will cut the wood.
The bracket moves forward to that point and get cut off where it extrude.
Step 7: The Majestic Mechanism - Body - Main
P-R-P the bracket good.
Step 8: Angle of Attack = Kill or Not
Check if your angle of attack is acceptable.
You can drill extra holes to get other angles.
Step 9: Testing , Testing 1,2,3
Dipping the stone in water ever so often,
the knife took on an edge quickly.
It is not difficult to handle really.
I just hold everything in my hands, and supported the knife with one hand.
The magnets keep its vertical plane right, I just lightly supported it not to twist direction.
The magnets makes it really quick and easy to change between sides of the blade also.
I left the copper brazing rod long. I just like it that way.
Step 10: The Only Thing That Matters. Do It Perform?
As can be seen,
The stone worn out quite a bit.
I imagined its because I had to make a entire edge on the knife instead of just sharpening it.
From this point on it should wear out much slower.
If not, I cut 4 pieces of sand stone as spares, so its not something that bothers me.
The blade is not razor sharp, but at 30 degrees, that is not expected.
It took an edge fast, looks good, and cuts if asked.
I'm happy with the results.
I liked some of the mentioned 'ibles, in that some had nice steel pieces that have lots of holes, so one can change the angle of attack as is needed.
I don't need it now, but its certainly something nice to have.
Easy, one can add some more holes with a drill as needed here.
Also, it is easy to make a few different stones with wires to get different grades of fine sharpening.
Maybe a ceramic piece as final stone.
I have a idea to use plaster of Paris and some polishing grit.
Alas, another day.