Here's how to build a "levitating" coffee table with acrylic legs, that doubles as a whiteboard! We made it at TechShop Pittsburgh, and a full BOM and assembly guide is available in the PDF file below.

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Completion Time: ~6 hours

Materials Required: (Total Cost ~$220)

Tools Needed:

  • Laser Cutter
  • Miter cold saw
  • Table saw
  • Drill press
  • Powder gun and oven for powder coating (or other painting method)

Prerequesites: You'll need to know how to...

  • Use a laser cutter
  • Drill holes with a drill press
  • Retain your appendages when using a cold saw and table saw
  • Not electrocute yourself with the powder gun (optional, but always helpful)

Step 1: Preparing the Acrylic

The first step in building your own levitating table is to cut and drill the acrylic. We attempted hand-cutting the acrylic for the legs, and swiftly realized there was no easy way to get a good finish. Enter the Trotec Speedy 300 laser cutter!

For each piece of acrylic, we cut out the attached vector design. The eight finished pieces were bolted together in pairs for extra strength, resulting in four stable legs.

The laser cutter settings we used were maximum frequency (5000Hz), speed 10, and power 50. You will have to adjust this depending on the acrylic thickness, color, laser cutter power, etc.

To ensure a nice finish, you'll want to make a few test cuts with your acrylic material to ensure everything looks as you expect. We also recommend placing some scrap plywood or other standoff between your acrylic part and the bottom grating, as this lets the smoke and vapors through and keeps the soot from adhering to the acrylic.

For those unfamiliar with laser cutters, we encourage them to visit TechShop and take the SBU, or refer to an online guide such as StumpChunkman's Instructable - both of these are excellent for teaching the basics.

If you don't have access to a laser cutter, we'd recommend using a table saw to ensure a straight cut. Make sure you keep the protective plastic cover on during the cut to keep surface scratches to a minimum. It's also recommended to drill a very small pilot hole first and expand your bit size slowly, as acrylic can crack very easily when drilled.

<p>I like your couch.</p>
<p>Thanks! We built that too :) Been meaning to do an instructables on it for a while</p>
<p>Ever going to do an instructable on that couch? xD</p>
screw the couch I want that bean bag bed
<p>It's called a LoveSac, and it's amazing. You should definitely get one!</p>
<p>Yeah your totally gonna win the Metal Contest. </p>
<p>o god munchkin. I LOVE THAT GAME. ITS ONE OF MY FAV CARDGAME </p>
<p>Is the Panelboard already a Dry-Erase surface? </p>
<p>The panelboard is coated in dry-erase surface, yes. We've found it to be by-far the cheapest solution for coating large areas in whiteboard :)</p>
<p>I see. The Home Depot link doesn't explicitly say that it is whiteboard-coated. I just wanted to make sure that you didn't paint something special on.</p>
<p>Yep, good catch. Updated the parts list to make that clearer :)</p>
<p>Wow, it looks amazing with the lights under it!</p>
<p>Thank you!</p>

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