Light Bar Ambient Lighting

 by QuackMasterDan
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Step 1: Parts & Tools

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The pieces needed for a LED bar are reasonably cheap. Don't be alarmed at the amount of parts needed - nothing is expensive, all of them are pretty common and easy to use. You probably already have 3/4ths of this stuff right now.

Most of these parts were purchased at The Home Depot and Lowes.

Metal Wire Cover (Light Bar) $5.00 for (1) 5' bar. Used to keep people from tripping over wires in the home or office, I modified it to become my light bar. You could also use wood, PVC pipe, or another material. (Though I suggest something compact and tidy).

Rubber Insulated Clamps (3) $1.25 for 2 - These are used to mount the light bar to a surface.

Electrical Tape (1) $4.00 for 66' - Used to hold pieces together and insulate wires from bar.

Wet Rag - Any cloth or sponge will do, just soak it in water, its used to clean leftover solder off your soldering iron.

LEDs (18 for one light bar) $10 for 100- Pick whatever colors you want. I also suggest fading LEDS. You can use any voltage you want, though most colors fall in two categories, 1.9-2.1v(red, orange,yellow), and 3.0-3.4v (green,blue,white). Brightness is up to you, 10000mcd-18000mcd (Millicandelas) are plenty for night lighting, something like 25,000mcd may be too bright for night time, but good for accent lighting (glowing under furnitur, though 35,000mcd or higher can even be daytime lighting. Real life stores are far too expensive, so on EBay you can get them from Hong Kong for 1/20th the price. I suggest the sellers HKJE LED or LED-HK

Hot Glue Gun $5 - Get a lot of glue sticks, as they will hold things in place and insulate.

Power Supply (1) $1- Any source of power will do, though LEDs run on DC. Your voltage can be whatever you want, but you must choose your own resistors. (Supply Voltage should be higher than the LEDs Forward Voltage, around 300mA for one light bar (Milliamps are the max amount of LEDs you can have). I got three supplies for $3 at my local GoodWill charity.

Resistors (At Least 10) $3 for 100 on EBay, I suggest ResistorsPlus- These keep the LED from taking in too much electricity. It can change a 9 volt or 12 volt power supply into a 3.3 volt for an LED. For my 9 volt supply, I needed 150 Ohm resistors (9 Volts for 2 LEDs in Series). Calculate yours @ ledcalc.com A common rating is wattage, this simply means heat dissipation, you can always have the W number higher than recommended, but never lower. A higher wattage rating costs a tiny bit more, and is larger, for the most part 1/2 watt is fine, unless you begin using ultra-high power LEDs (like Luxeon Stars which can need 3-10W resistors). 

20 Gauge Speaker Wire (Around 8-10 feet) - Used to connect the LEDs to the power supply.

Soldering Iron $10 (1) - Cheap, everyone should have one around. A 15 Watt iron from Radioshack works fine.

Solder (1) $3 at Radioshack- Solder with flux. I recommend silver solder at 0.022" thickness and a rosin core, it's easier to flow and more durable. Used to connect LEDs to the Speaker Wire.

Needle-nose Pliers - Used to bend LED legs.

Insulated Quick Disconnects (Optional) $2 for 12- This is used to easily plug the power supply into the light bar. You could just solder the power supply wires straight to the speaker wire, but then you always have the cord attached. (***Update, I now recommend using 2.5mm DC barrel plug connectors, they are much more durable, easier to plug in, and make a stronger connection. Buying them online is semi-random, try eBay as always**

Power Drill (1) - If you don't have one, ask a friend.

13/64" Drill Bit (2) - $1.50 for one. Used to drill the holes in the light bar. 13/64th" is the perfect size for a 5mm LED, it keeps them from going through the hole and holds them in place.

Wire Clippers - Used to cut the legs of LEDs. You can use some small scissors as well.

Awl - Something sharp with a fine point. I'm sure you can find something.

Scissors - Used to cut speaker wire and electrical tape.

Wire Stripper or Knife - Used to strip plastic insulation from the speaker wire.

If you are new to LEDs or soldering, I suggest viewing this guide @ llamma.com
 
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channy1510 says: Jul 31, 2010. 8:14 AM
Hi i am new to this and am a complete amature, i have two power suplies. No. 1 is AC , 12V, 700ma No. 2 is DC, 5-7V, 400ma I don't know which one to use, how many LED's i can have on each and what resistors i should use?
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QuackMasterDan (author) in reply to channy1510Jul 31, 2010. 12:28 PM
Actually, both of those are AC->DC adapters, both will work. The voltages are different, which is something you need to take into account for choosing your resistors.

Aa far as calculating how many LEDs each can use, the 5-7v adapter can power one light bar, and the 12v adapter can power two, maybe three.

As far as calculating resistors, I punched the numbers into LEDcalc.com, and got these results:

For the 12v adapter, you would need 330 Ohm 1/8 W (Minimum) resistors per two LEDs.

For the 7v adapter, you would need 33 Ohm 1/8 W (minimum) resistors. Note that whatever resistor you get doesn't have to be perfectly that number, 330s are very common, if you can't find a pack of 33 Ohm resistors, 30, 35, 40, will all work; You'll find something. Have fun!
channy1510 in reply to QuackMasterDanAug 2, 2010. 12:24 AM
Thanks, ill get started on it today
bsoccer1616 says: Jul 19, 2010. 5:28 AM
Could you use just a regular power cord for this project? not a phone charger or anything with a box on the cord?
QuackMasterDan (author) in reply to bsoccer1616Jul 19, 2010. 11:24 AM
Just a straight power cord, as in going from the wall to the light bar, would absolutely destroy the LEDs and could possibly melt your wire if you ground it wrong. House wiring (mains) runs at 120 volts AC, not DC like LEDs need. LEDs are very fragile, and run at anywhere from 1.2-3.5v, so you would need to step down 120 volts to 3.5, of which I don't know if a resistor like that exists (and it would be huge, and extremely hot). A phone charger is a different story. It has a rectifier (AC->DC) inside of it, and only draws a very small amount of power. Depending on your phone charger, it could work extremely well, provided it can supply over 360mA of current. Almost any small electronics power supply will work, however a straight cord from the wall socket to the light bar will not.
Yoink says: Jan 15, 2010. 3:30 PM
I found a 10 volt power supply and the ledcalc is saying I need 180 ohm resistors. But all I have are 1/4 watt resistors and it says 1/8 watt is best. Would it make a huge difference if I were to use the 1/4 watt resistors or should I really get the 1/8 watt it recommends.
QuackMasterDan (author) in reply to YoinkJan 15, 2010. 7:14 PM
Wattage ratings are only for minimum ratings.

A resistor that is rated for 1/4W means it can give off .25W of heat into the air, a 1/2 .5W and so on. It is better to use a higher wattage rating if possible, the only cost will be the physical size of the resistor. You could even use a 3W 180 ohm resistor if you wanted, but it would be bigger than a couple LEDs together. A 3 W resistor can very easily dissipate .25W of heat, however a 1/4W resistor trying to dissipate 3 watts of heat will explode.

To sum it up, a bigger wattage rating is better, not worse.
cullen says: Apr 1, 2009. 6:47 PM
could it be flashing rgb LEDs?I'm about to remodel my room at my dads house, and i saw some flashing ones on ebay and i don't know if it would work
gibson5031 says: Dec 4, 2008. 1:57 PM
hey I'm making this to put on my bar and i was wondering if it matters if my LEDs have different mcd levels
coggie in reply to gibson5031Jan 9, 2009. 3:42 AM
hey wicked idea dude i like the way u think !! 1 my weekend project is to build one of these!!!
QuackMasterDan (author) in reply to coggieJan 9, 2009. 4:14 AM
They are totally worth it, I've built so many for friends, family, and my houses and apartment, everyone loves them. A couple people don't even use lightbulbs in their entertainment room since they work so well. Have fun!
coggie in reply to QuackMasterDanJan 9, 2009. 12:31 PM
lol!! thats wicked . What colours do you think or reccomend would look the best cheers,coggie
QuackMasterDan (author) in reply to coggieJan 9, 2009. 1:24 PM
Depends on what you want to use your light bar for. I've made some mini-light bars for a friends entertainment center, he wanted everything blue. For my house lighting I use a color and white, so Green/White, Red/White, Blue/White. For a room usually in darkness, blue and green work well (the original colors for the guide). Color options are most commonly available: Red, Amber (Orange), Green, Blue, White, Pink, UV (Ultraviolet). Brightness matters too, mcd (Millicandelas are the measurement used to show the brightness of LEDs). For a light bar for nighttime home lighting, 14-18kmcd, for dark lighting, 10-14kmcd, and for a light bar as primary lighting for your house, 20-40kmcd.
coggie in reply to QuackMasterDanJan 9, 2009. 2:48 PM
thanks for that i like ur idea ill try to build a heap soon cheers coggie
QuackMasterDan (author) in reply to gibson5031Dec 4, 2008. 4:04 PM
Millicandelas (mcd) are a measurement of brightness for how much light hits a surface and is commonly used for LEDs. You can have a 15kmcd green and a 10kmcd blue and they will look the same to your eyes, even though they output the same amount of light. If there is a large difference in brightness (12kmcd vs 20kmcd) between colors it will be very noticeable. Try to get your colors to be within 3kmcd of one another. If you are going to use white however, get a higher mcd rating when mixing it with a color. For some reason, white LEDs tend to be absorbed fairly well into materials, so for a 12kmcd green, get a 16kmcd white and they should be about the same brightness. Brightness will not affect whether or not the LEDs turn on as that is dependent on voltage, its just for you preference of how bright you want you light bar.
Spike002 says: Jun 30, 2008. 8:37 PM
ohh my gawdd!! I dont know why I havn't done this to my room already!! Awsome, thanks!
QuackMasterDan (author) in reply to Spike002Jul 1, 2008. 1:52 AM
I suppose that means you like it ;) I've got a couple of these up at my cabin, and make them for my friends houses and dorms as well. Whatever you do, use your imagination and have a bunch of fun!
Spike002 in reply to QuackMasterDanJul 4, 2008. 5:05 PM
haha yah dude fr sure, im ordering the lights right now, oh but I got a question, is the mcd on the different color lights supposed to be the same? Cause the differnet colors seem to come in different mcd's.
redsox59 says: Jun 11, 2008. 2:59 PM
Hey
Have you tried finding the metal wire cover on the home depot website? I couldn't, possibly cause HD doesn't put such random crap on their site? I found a plastic one at ACE http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(i53rvh55z4b5twbuutsmzw45)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=3139789 How well do you think this plastic will hold up?
QuackMasterDan (author) in reply to redsox59Jun 16, 2008. 7:33 PM
I suppose plastic would work fine, the LEDs don't give off very much heat. I've heard that in more power intensive projects the plastic can trap the heat and possibly melt. Pretty much any good material would work for this project, from metal to wood to your plastic cover. Also, I was able to find the wire covers at both Lowes and Home Depot, so I figure they are pretty common. If you can't find one, just look for something else in the store that would work; be innovative!
BnryZombie says: Jun 16, 2008. 4:31 PM
You have to have a bigger power supply. The led draws 20mah if you use 18 of them then you draw 360mah. The resistor is used to complete OHM's Law since your voltage is higher then the sink voltage. Your 9 volt adaptor will more than likely peak at 450mah, but you are shorting the life of it no big deal.
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