So, I need to ask for your forgiveness here. I got so engrossed during this part I forgot to take any pictures. I'll do my best to break it down in parts and describe what I did. It helps to have some experience soldering, but it is a pretty simple job, if a bit fiddly. remember to tin your wires and always cut your heat shrink tube and slide it on the wire BEFORE you solder them together!
Note: the wires used in this saber are very thin and the connections to the boards are very delicate, be careful handling them or you might have to re-solder them.
1. Add some wire: We will need to extend the wires that led to the on/off button board, the sound cap, and the battery box. Remember that polarity is important for the battery box, I used black and red wire so I knew which was - and which was +. For the battery box and sound cap they should be at least a foot or so long.
2. Mount the blade: I wrapped black gaffe tape around the bottom of the blade till it was just a hair bigger diameter than the top of the drain. Then I slid the drain over it and twisted and squeezed it till it was jammed in place, you can see the black gaffe tape through the opening in the top half of the drain. The tape is right where the two pins went through.
3. The Button: Remember when we added extra wire to those wires that went to the button board? Now we use em. First check to see if your button will fit in the cap on the side of the drain, you may need to widen a hole or something depending on the button you picked. I had to widen the hole and the channel under it a bit with my dremel tool. The pipe looks like steel but it's actually coated brass and cuts pretty easily. Once it seems to have a good fit, thread the wires through the side pipe, and through the pipe cap and solder them to the terminal on the button (doesn't matter which, and don't forget to put your heat shrink on BEFORE you solder so you can slide it up to the join and shrink it in place with a lighter or something).
4.Battery case: If you have the blade mounted and the button in place, you should be able to take the long wires for the battery box and the speaker and run them through the extender/drain bottom and have them come out the other side, now screw the extender/drain bottom on to the drain and you should be left with a light saber with some wires hanging out the bottom. Make sure you have the 3-way selector in the position you want since it will be unreachable in the body of the saber. Take the two wires that lead to the original battery box (did you remember to label them?) and solder them to the new battery box (either buy a 3 cell AAA battery case or salvage one from a pocket flashlight like I did). At this point the light saber should light up when you press the button.
5. Speaker Cap: the size of extender tube I got fit the speaker cap PERFECTLY. I attached the wires to it, fed the battery box and all the excess wire into the handle, and then pressed the cap into the end of the extender tube, perfect fit, finally I screwed on the nut on the end of the tube.