While time is continuous, most clocks display the time in a discrete way; even 'analogue clocks' often move their hands only once a second. In this in...
The Arduino is the main component of the clock. It will control the LEDs by adjusting the light intensity for each of the three components (red, green...
Each LED will become a big pixel consisting of a white foamboard cube. If you haven't done yet, decide now what size the cubes will be (for example, I...
Saw the wood in the appropriate pieces. You need a top and bottom, two sides and a small front and back to hide the electronics underneath the LED cub...
Download the attached Arduino sketch. Put the arduino/libraries/Tlc5940/ library in your Arduino libraries directory. Open the sketch in rgb_clock/ an...
If everything went well, you now have a working Light Spectrum Clock. If you feel like you haven't done enough yet, consider adding buttons to be abl...
While time is continuous, most clocks display the time in a discrete way; even 'analogue clocks' often move their hands only once a second. In this instructable, I will show how to build a clock that shows the time continuously by smoothly cycling though the light spectrum. To allow for reading the clock with different levels of precision, we make multiple light cubes: one for which a second will have been passed after each cycle, one for a cycle of a minute, one for hour, one for day and one for a week.
Although it might take some time to learn reading this clock, it certainly is a much more colourful way of finding out the current time!
As mentioned in the text: "R1 is a pull-up resistor and has to be high (10kOhm or more), R2 sets the maximum amount of current for all the LEDs (typically around 2kOhm; test with a LED and power source before you start soldering)." I think I used 27kOhm for R1 and 1.2kOhm for R2.
You can find more information in the TLC5940 datasheet, both resistors are there because of that chip.
I had the same idea, but never gotten in to it to build one. My design just uses hh:mm:ss and non-fading colors, better for readability, but worse for originality.
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As mentioned in the text: "R1 is a pull-up resistor and has to be high (10kOhm or more), R2 sets the maximum amount of current for all the LEDs (typically around 2kOhm; test with a LED and power source before you start soldering)."
I think I used 27kOhm for R1 and 1.2kOhm for R2.
You can find more information in the TLC5940 datasheet, both resistors are there because of that chip.
I had the same idea, but never gotten in to it to build one. My design just uses hh:mm:ss and non-fading colors, better for readability, but worse for originality.