I wanted to make a light-weight lawn chair to toss in the back of my car.  Some one had mentioned this style of chair being used as a pack frame, so that is on the drawing board for me.

This is a rehash of IAMSatisfied's chair.  I did mine out of stock lumber instead of ripping stuff down.

Step 1: Materials & Tools


1x2 @ 8'  - qty 2
1x3 @ 8'  - qty 1
Rope (1/4" or just under)  -  ~100'
Using cheap wood and rope it cost about $15 from a local hardware-big-box.

Wood glue


Something to cut wood with (miter saw, chop saw, circular saw, hand saw, well-trained beaver)
Drill with bits (I used both a hand drill and a cheap drill press)
Router with 1/4" bit
Measuring tape
Straight edge
Brad nailer (Optional)
Hand sander
35mm film canister (Kids, check your local museum if you don't know what this is.)
<p>I am wondering why you dont tip forward with the legs that far back. what I mean is shouldn't they be farther back? Longer? or is it just the angle of the picture?</p><p>I also another sturdier version made of oak but I want a lighter version. I thought maybe instead of all the rope work stretching an old t-shirt over the seat and back would be easier, cheaper.</p>
Your center of gravity is actually between the legs so it is actually rather stable. The only tipping issues are as I go to get out of it.<br><br>The rope is not only comfy, it also provides a structural element to help keep the frames decently rigid. I'm not sure that a t-shirt would take the weight of a person and still give the needed support. Maybe a heavy towel or canvas?
<p> can you extend your feet forward all the way without tipping forward? </p>
maybe PVC would be faster cheaper and lighter. I think 1&quot; or better would work.
<p><strong>Saddly PVC will not work. I tried.</strong></p><p>There is no way to get the spacing tight enough on the &quot;seat gap&quot; to keep the chair up right. It might work if you used 2 different sizes of pipe and make the pipe on the seat larger. You wouldn't be able to take it apart though. If the gap is as tight as possible (I even shaved down the T connectors I was using to get that &quot;seat gap&quot; smaller) once you slide the seat past the right angle connectors on the seat to the pipe sections there is a lot of extra room almost an inch. The seat pretty much just lays down. the only ways I even remotely come up with to solve this problem would make the seat to where you couldn't take it apart, defeating the purpose of the chair.</p><p>I really wanted this to work, because I wanted to find a way to turn my PVC pack frame into a chair. <strong>But sadly no dice.</strong></p>
I wonder if a curved piece of wood could be used for the &quot;lumbar strut&quot;. <br>(like off an old, broken chair) <br>Padding is also a great idea.
I think I'd try the padding, if anything, first as I like the compact look of the chair. But, a curved piece my fit better. Might be the way to go if I can turn it into a pack frame.
what about putting several notches in the underside of the seat's sidebars, where it rests on the frame of the back piece, so that you can set the chair to different angles. <br> <br>similar to the way the wooden and canvas deck chairs are adjustable.
So far, I haven't had any issues just sliding it in and out to where I want it before I sit down. It seems that the weight on the seat offers enough friction that is stays put while I'm on it.
Nice.. I was looking for a light weight (reasonably) comfy chair to take with me... (in the car)
What's that bar like across your back? <br>I had a fabric chair with this basic design and the bar really starts to hurt across your lower spine?
I sit in it for about an hour at a time while my daughter is in dance, and haven't had an issue. It is a 1x3 wrapped in 1/4&quot; rope. i could see maybe putting some padding on it before wrapping it.
That probably makes the difference.
Sweet chair, awesome ible!
That's awesome! Very nice build. :D

About This Instructable




Bio: I'm a tech guy with handy-man tendencies.
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