This 1920's Cloche hat is not too difficult to make but it is a little time consuming. The cost is minimal because you can make it out of old clothes from the thrift shop. I found a lovely white linen skirt that was in good shape, I thought it would be perfect for a hat. The hatband matches the trim around the edge of the brim. The pink roses on the side of the hat add a nice feminine touch.
Step 1: Supplies
Sewing machine, scissors, thread, measuring tape, straight pins, I used 3 shirts and a skirt, the straight white linen skirt for the hat itself, 1 white, cotton shirt for the lining, one pink cotton shirt for the fabric roses and a light green linen shirt for the hatband and trim around the edge of the brim. I used a styrofoam head to pin the hat to as I worked on it. You will also need an iron and 1/2 yard of heavy weight interfacing for the brim.
Step 2: Making the Pattern
I used an old hat that I purchased from the thrift shop. It's just a basic cotton summer hat. I cut it apart at the seams and traced around them for the pattern, adding seam allowances where needed. The top section of the original hat is a flat round piece. I wanted a more rounded look, so I took the circle and cut it in 4 equal pieces. As I traced around it I curved the straight lines a little. This allowed me to create a rounded top.
Step 3: Crown of Hat
I sewed the 4 pieces of the top of the hat together with 1/2" seam allowances, and then pressed the seams open. I pinned the top section onto the styrofoam head and made a few adjustments until it was the shape I wanted. I then cut out the side of the crown and stitched the back seam with 1/2" seam allowance. Pin the sides of the crown to the top section, matching center front and center back. I sewed around and then trimmed the seam allowance.
Step 4: Brim of Hat
Cut out 2 pieces of linen and 1 piece of heavyweight interfacing. Fold each piece in half seperately, right sides together. Stitch the back seam on each one. 1/2" seam allowance. press open. Place the interfacing in between the pieces of linen. Pin together with the seam allowances inside. Sitch around outside edge.
Step 5: Trim on Edge of Brim
For the trim cut 2 or 3 strips on the bias about 2" wide x 16" long. Cutting this out on the bias gives it a bit of stretch and allows it to be sewn around the curve of the brim. Sew the ends of the strips together until the strip is long enough to go around the entire edge of the brim. Press seams open. Pin around edge of brim. With the sewing machine, sew the trim to the brim. Turn under 1/4" and turn under again. Pin in place. Hand sew with tiny stitches.
Step 6: Attaching Brim to Crown
Clip curves on the inside of brim. Match up back seam of crown to back seam of brim. Pin right sides together. locate center fronts of each and pin together. Pin sides and continue pinning until the crown of hat is pinned to the brim. Sew the crown of the hat to the brim.
Step 7: Lining
Cut out and sew the lining in the same manner as the hat. Press seams open.
Step 8: Sew Lining to Hat
Place lining inside hat. Turn under edge 1/2". Pin all around and hand stitch in place.
Step 9: Hatband
I wanted a pleated headband, I think it adds a bit of character. I cut a strip of fabric on the bias about 6" wide x 25" long. I then turned under 1/2" and zig-zagged the long edges. The middle of the hatband is folded with a pleat and the top and bottom are turned under about 1". Press. Place the hat on the styrofoam head and pin the hatband around it. Pin it where you want it. Hand stitch the ends of the hatband together. The fabric roses will be placed over the unfinished ends. I chose to put my roses on the left side of the hat.
Step 10: Fabric Roses
Cut several strips of fabric 2" x 24" long. Fold lengthwise and, with a needle and thread, sew a running stitch along the raw edge and gather the strip until it is about 8" long. Begin rolling the gathered fabric, stitching every couple of inches to hold it in place. Keep rolling and stitching until it is completely rolled up and resembles a rose. Repeat with other strips of fabric.
Step 11: Yo-Yo's
Yo-yo's are made from circles of scrap fabrics. I made mine from 4" circles but you can use a 3" or 5" circle. The finished Yo-Yo will be 1/2 as wide as the original circle. Make as may as you want for your hat. They are optional but I think they add a nice touch.
Step 12: Attaching Roses to Hat
Pin the yo-yo's and fabric roses onto the side of the hat, placing the yo-yo's on first and allowing them to peek out from under the roses a bit. I used 7 fabric roses and 4 yo-yo's for this hat, but you may just want 3 or 4 roses on yours. Once you get them where you want them, hand stitch in place.
Step 13: The Finished Hat
I am quite pleased with the way my hat turned out. The white linen and pastel accents makes it perfect for wearing with a pretty Summer dress. Now, I would like to make a beige hat with a royal blue hatband and orange fabric roses.