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Step 6Sharpening
Keeping your tools sharp is very important. I suggest you buy a good set of Japanese Woodcutting tools. They are expensive but they will last many years and are high quality. They are very useful not only for linoleum but obviously wood and also pumpkin carving. Many of the high end Japanese Woodcutting tools are made with the same expertise as samurai blade. But I understand most people won't buy expensive tools as a beginner. I use Speedball and Alvin Blades mostly. They are also cheap enough to buy a new blades when they get dull.
But just as easily re sharpened.
You will need a sharpening stone of some kind. There are basically three types available, oil stones, water stones. Whichever type you choose, don't be afraid to buy a decent quality stone, they will last pretty much forever with decent care.
Oil stones are probably the most common. They are abrasive stones intended to be lubricated by oil when being used. They are the least expensive and most commonly available, and provide perfectly good results. Use a sharpening oil, or a general purpose oil, to lubricate them. They are available in many different grits, and also in double sided versions that offer a coarse side and a finer side. I recommend a double sided stone, with a coarse and medium grit (100/700 is a good combination and my preference). If you can only get one grit, go for a finer (700 or so).
Another item that you should keep at hand is a leather strop. They come in handy when you are sharpening, to hone the tool to a fine edge, but they are also great to keep by your side while you are cutting. Running the tool over the strop every so often helps to keep the edge sharp, and will dramatically reduce the time between required sharpenings. A bit of stropping compound also comes in handy.
I prefer water stones. They cost a little more, but they are worth it. You use water to lubricate them rather than oil. Most of them are soaked in a 'bath' of water prior to use. Keep yours in a Tupperware container all the time, so it is always ready to go. They are used in pretty much the same way as an oilstone. Like oilstones, they are available in many grits, I like a 800 and 4000 myself, it allows me to get a very fine edge on my tools. Also, since they don't use oil, the cleanup is a bit easier and you don't end up with oil on your hands, workbench, and linoleum blocks
Look at the diagram
The first picture is a front view of the stone.
The Second and Third are Side views
Begin to sharpen the blade by drawing it in one direction along the stone. You will want to hold it at about a 30-45 degree angle depending on the edge you are after (this is personal preference - some like a sharper angle). Keep the entire width of the cutting edge in contact with the stone to get an even edge.
When you have the edge you want, run it over a leather strop block a few times to fine hone it. You can test the blade in a scrap piece of linoleum or wood, to make sure it 'behaves' as you want it to. You might need to fine-tune the edge.
But just as easily re sharpened.
You will need a sharpening stone of some kind. There are basically three types available, oil stones, water stones. Whichever type you choose, don't be afraid to buy a decent quality stone, they will last pretty much forever with decent care.
Oil stones are probably the most common. They are abrasive stones intended to be lubricated by oil when being used. They are the least expensive and most commonly available, and provide perfectly good results. Use a sharpening oil, or a general purpose oil, to lubricate them. They are available in many different grits, and also in double sided versions that offer a coarse side and a finer side. I recommend a double sided stone, with a coarse and medium grit (100/700 is a good combination and my preference). If you can only get one grit, go for a finer (700 or so).
Another item that you should keep at hand is a leather strop. They come in handy when you are sharpening, to hone the tool to a fine edge, but they are also great to keep by your side while you are cutting. Running the tool over the strop every so often helps to keep the edge sharp, and will dramatically reduce the time between required sharpenings. A bit of stropping compound also comes in handy.
I prefer water stones. They cost a little more, but they are worth it. You use water to lubricate them rather than oil. Most of them are soaked in a 'bath' of water prior to use. Keep yours in a Tupperware container all the time, so it is always ready to go. They are used in pretty much the same way as an oilstone. Like oilstones, they are available in many grits, I like a 800 and 4000 myself, it allows me to get a very fine edge on my tools. Also, since they don't use oil, the cleanup is a bit easier and you don't end up with oil on your hands, workbench, and linoleum blocks
Look at the diagram
The first picture is a front view of the stone.
The Second and Third are Side views
Begin to sharpen the blade by drawing it in one direction along the stone. You will want to hold it at about a 30-45 degree angle depending on the edge you are after (this is personal preference - some like a sharper angle). Keep the entire width of the cutting edge in contact with the stone to get an even edge.
When you have the edge you want, run it over a leather strop block a few times to fine hone it. You can test the blade in a scrap piece of linoleum or wood, to make sure it 'behaves' as you want it to. You might need to fine-tune the edge.
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