When I was about 75% done with my system, I stumbled upon this instructable. It's pretty similar to my setup, and I ended up using his source for some of my tubing connectors, www.usplastic.com, and his idea for the quick release connectors.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Parts and tools needed
Some abbreviations used (ID = inner dimension, OD = outer dimension, VDC = volts direct current, VAC = volts alternating current)
Parts:
• Plastic hard-sided cooler - In my case I went with a smallish, 12-can cooler made by Igloo, ($9.88 at Walmart.)
• 12VDC submersible bilge pump - A bilge pump is going to be the 12VDC that you'll need to run it in your car. Otherwise, you'll need to find a 12VDC fountain pump (usually sold as a "solar" pump.) Alternately, you could get a power inverter to run a standard 120VAC fountain pump from your cigarette lighter socket, which can be noisy and produce a lot of heat - unless you're willing to spend a lot of money on a really good one.
• Cigarette lighter plug power adaptor
• ~5 feet of 12VDC wire
• 4 or 5 refreezable freezer packs
• 3" of 3/4" ID vinyl tubing
• 20-24" of 3/8" ID vinyl tubing
• 14" of 1/4" ID vinyl tubing
• 30-35' of 1/4" OD tubing (use drip irrigation tubing)
• (1) 3/4" X 3/8" ID reducer coupling
• (2) Y adapters for 1/4" ID tubing
• (4) 1/4" X 5/32" reducer couplings
• (2) small screw-type hose clamps - or use 3/8" X 1/4" reducer couplings
• (2) 3/8" quick release couplings
• (1) 12" X 18" sheet "Darice Mesh" or "plastic canvas" - get the extra stiff kind
• spool of cut-to-length, plastic-coated twist ties
• 1/2 yard of woven cotton fabric (optional)
• felt fabric to cover bottom of cooler (optional)
• distilled water
Tools:
• scissors
• utility knife
• duct tape
• electricians tape, or wire-splicing connectors
• drill with 1/2" bit and 3/16" bit
• screwdriver (common head)
• hot glue gun
• sewing machine (optional)







































Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »




1) As an engineer and father, I understand that your "pad" has a negligible amount of give, and is "real-world" safe. A good friend was in an accident, and Britax (baby seat manufacturer) offered her a replacement seat, if she shipped the old seat to them for inspection. They did not ask about pads and such. I imagine had she painted the seat or drilled into it, they might refuse to send the replacement. But, no one was injured, so that was as involved as the company got. Besides, are seat manufacturers even liable for injuries of seat occupants? I think it would be really hard to "prove" their seat caused an injury, short of the seat shell breaking in half.
2) Did you consider putting a coil of metal tubing on your AC heat exchanger? It would eliminate messing about with the freezer packs. Closed heat transfer systems really are much cleaner.
http://www.buycoldtherapy.com/coolingpads/cooling-mat/
Only $47. so not a bad option... just connect the water in/out to the pad and you are good to go.
A few thoughts... the in and out tubes can be insulated together because the temperature drop between them is small, much less than to the air.
If you're worried about sloshing water, a piece of open cell foam packing material on top of the working fluid could dampen (no pun intended) waves.
Iodine is a great idea, much better than the bleach I use. Iodophor is good too, but you may see staining. Bilge pumps are made for saltwater use, so salt may work too.
The commercial units made by Breg and Donjoy regulate the temperature by restricting flow, using fancy devices that squeeze one tube. The plastics catalogs have squeeze devices, or you can use automotive hose clamps. Oh, you can find the "cold therapy" units pretty cheap on a major auction site.
Be careful with tender humans!
Most of your response is quite reasonable, but there's one little point about which I'd like to nit-pick.
The strapping is not meant to just "keep them within the seat." It needs to be tight enough (the usual guideline is that you can insert two fingers) so that in the event of a crash, the child's momentum transfers to the straps before they start moving significantly. If the straps are loose enough that the child can move forward more than about 2", that's enough distance for neck flexion (whiplash) to cause injury.
The recommendations against thick soft clothing (including winter coats) under the straps is precisely because those soft materials do not transfer the momentum of an impact, so the child can move forward then back rapidly (whiplash).
Having said that, it is obvious (to a physicist, at least) that a 1/4" pad inserted in the existing gap between the approved padded seat cover and the plastic body of the seat does not affect the momentum transfer the same way that loose straps, or padding between the child and the straps, does.
That's awesome! So you have much better direct experience than I do (except for getting to watch the crush zone on my former Honda Civic work the way it was designed!). My analysis was based on some simplifying assumptions and idealizations, for which you have the more complex data.
Yes, two inches is a lot of travel, and I suspect that it's a bad quote on my part: the rule of thumb I have read is that want the straps as tight as possible, and that you should be able to slip no more than two of your fingers between the child and the strap. I'm playing with that now, using my belt, and it looks like the gap is more like 3/4" or so. Does that sound more reasonable?
One of our car seats (the Sunshine Kids) actually came with a short length of what I recognized as fall protection, a shock-absorbing "lanyard" that clips between the anchor on the back of the seat and the Y-clip for the shoulder straps.
Hear, hear! I fully agree with both the physics and the philosophy; thank you.
You wrote, "Another example is that cell phones have been conclusively proven to be unable to cause a gas station fire and yet the warnings remain... " Exactly what I meant by "lawyerly fear of responsibility" in another comment. No physics or engineering reality there, just "we told you so you can't sue us."
I'm not an automotive engineer. I'm a professional physicist. I understand momentum transfer and dynamics enough to tell the difference between the (properly warned against!) effect of soft squishy stuff interfering with momentum transfer to the safety straps in front of the seat, and the effect of a thin non-compressible layer placed in an existing air gap behind the seat.
I can also tell the difference between safety warnings based on sensible physical principles (use the LATCH clips whch are bolted to the car frame, use the full five-point harness tightened to no looser than two-finger insertion) and warnings based on lawyerly fear of responsibility (don't use a seat cover of a different color! Danger: that hot coffee might burn you!).
"Even if your machine is always working air conditioning, from sitting in a chair sweats spin. Now imagine what your baby, who even upside-down properly in the child seat can not. It was on this crazy pen of Instructables, give detailed instructions modify the child safety seat for the introduction of liquid cooling in English."
From http://botinok.co.il/
:)