Step 2Creating the cooling coils
Take a Sharpie or other felt-tip pen and sketch out how you want the tubing to coil onto the sheet of plastic canvas. Keep in mind that the tightest diameter you can bend this tubing into is about 2" - and you don't want to kink it. At this point, you might want to go into your car and measure out how far from the cooler your car seat pads are going to be, allowing for enough slack to tuck your tubing away. I put the cooler in the trunk and ran the tubing out the pass-through in the backseat and to each car seat, which required about 15' of tubing per seat (3' to 5' in the seat pad, 5' for the supply tube and 5' for the return tube).
Measure out this much tubing and mark it with a piece of tape or something, then at this mark, start attaching it to the plastic canvas. Get your plastic coated twisties and, starting at one end of your inked path, attach the tubing to your plastic canvas, tucking in the twist tie ends as you go. Once you've completed attaching the cooling coil to the pad, add the same amount of extra tubing for the return section back to the cooler. I'm using all plastic parts here because if there's any condensation, we don't want there to be any rust or other damage.
Creating cloth covers: This step is optional. I did it because I wanted extra protection against condensation by providing an absorptive layer, and also to protect the inside of the car seat from damage by the twisties or plastic canvas. I bought some woven fabric from the muslin section that kind of looks like waffles. I cut it so it would be an inch larger on all sides, then had my wife sew it together into a sleeve to put the cooling pads into. She also put in three snaps. My wife is very crafty! If you can't sew, you might try the peel and stick Velcro strips.
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