In this Instructable I will be going over the basics of proper charging, discharging, handling, usage, storage, and care of lithium polymer batteries so you can use them safely and effectively in your future projects.  Now, this is by no means the be-all and end-all of information, and it's always important to consult the instructions for your specific equipment, but I think this Instructable will provide a good basis of knowledge on the subject of these awesome batteries.

Step 1: Terminology

If you're new to lithium polymer/LiPo/LiPoly batteries, there are a lot of terms you will need to know before we get started.  Everything may seem a bit daunting at first, but with some basic understanding, it's all pretty simple, so let's jump in.

When you look at a LiPo's data sheet or casing, you will notice it has a lot of specs.

Cell arrangement - Described using the format xSyP (where x and y are integers), this tells you how the cells in the battery are wired up.  Batteries are made up of cells, whose voltage is determined by cell chemistry and whose capacity is determined by energy density and physical size of the cell.  S stands for series and P stands for parallel.  As you may know, series adds the voltage of the cells and parallel adds the capacity of the cells, so a combination of cells in series and parallel results in a battery.  The battery shown in the second image reads that it has an arrangement of 3S1P, meaning it has 3 cells that are all in series with no parallel wiring.  This may seem confusing because it says "1P," but think of the arrangement as a grid.  By multiplying the 3 and the 1, you get the total number of cells in the battery, which in this case is 3.  If it were a 3S2P battery, there would be 2 sets of 3 series-wired cells in parallel, resulting in 6 cells total.  Often times the parallel arrangement is omitted when discussing batteries, because most packs are 1P (so instead of saying you're using a 3S1P pack, you may as well just say 3S).

Capacity - Usually measured in mAh (milliamp hours), this is determined by the cell arrangement (parallel) and tells you how long you can expect the battery to last on a charge (although it's not quite that simple).  2600mAh as shown on the battery in the picture is equal to 2.6Ah (amp hours), a format you may be more familiar with on larger batteries, like the SLA (sealed lead acid) one in your car, which is probably around 50Ah.  A capacity of 2600mAh means that the battery can discharge at 2.6 amps for one hour (hence "amp hours"), 1.3 amps for 2 hours, etc., before it runs out of "juice."  Because the battery shown has a 1P arrangement, each cell has a capacity of 2600mAh.

Voltage -The voltage of a battery is also determined by the cell arrangement (series), and there are a few common voltage measurements worth noting:
        Charged - the voltage of a fully-charged LiPo cell is 4.20V, and charging above this will damage the cell.
        Nominal - this can be considered a sort of "half-charged" voltage, as it is 3.70V, in between charged and discharged.  Nominal voltage is what manufacturers use when describing the voltage of their batteries.
        Discharged - the voltage of a discharged LiPo cell is 3.00V, and discharging below this will definitely damage the cell.
Because the battery shown has a 3S arrangement, it is marked with its nominal voltage of 11.1V (3.70V*3 cells).  A fully charged 3S pack is 12.60V and a fully discharged 3S pack is 9.00V.

Constant C Rating (Discharge) - The constant C rating (in relation to discharge) tells you how many amps can be safely drawn from the battery constantly.  The "C" in a rating of xC (where x is an integer) actually stands for the capacity of the battery in Ah.  By multiplying the C rating's coefficient by the capacity of the battery in Ah, you can determine the sort of amperage you can draw.  In the case of this battery, with a capacity of 2600mAh (2.6Ah) and a C rating of 55C (that's pretty high, FYI), I can multiply 55*2.6 and get the max constant output of my battery, which is 143A.

Burst C Rating (Discharge) - In addition to the constant C rating, there is also a burst C rating, which is higher.  Most of the time, the "burst" is rated for 10 seconds.  Although it is not marked on the battery itself in the picture, it says in the documentation that this battery's 10 second burst rating is 80C.  So, 80*2.6 is 208A burst. That's a lot!  It's worth noting that your LiPo won't last long when that many amps are being drawn from it.  At 208A, a 2600mAh LiPo will last approximately 45 seconds.

C Rating (Charge) - Determined in the same fashion as the C ratings for discharge, the C rating for charge tells you at what amperage you can safely charge your battery.  This information is generally listed on the back of the battery with all the safety information.  For the battery shown, it happens to be 5C, which means that it can be charged at 13A (2.6*5).  We'll be talking a lot more about charge rates later...
<p>Battery topping off at 11.30 volts.</p><p>Both of these are high discharge 3s1p 25c-3000mah lipo batteries by 2 different manufactures. 2 Imax B6 Lipo chargers same model. Both these chargers were used in most if not all configerations<br><br>First battery will start recharge at or about 10 volts and stop at 12.60 volts by way of meter on Imax, and takes 119.59 to complete charge. All of these readings are backed up by a multimeter to <br><br>confirm readings on charger.<br><br>Second battery (in question) will start charge at or about 10 volts and complete its run at or about 11.30 volts, in about 5 minutes or or less and about at this point Immediately jumps to 12.60 volts on both chargers with either charger saying Full. Without disconnecting, battery voltage is checked on both balance line, 3.766 volts and 11.30 on Deans connector.<br><br>Both chargers have had several wall warts used to power them up, any where from 1.5, to 3 amp, 12 volt output.<br><br>I have been able to charge second battery by leaving balance line disconnected, with charger going from 2.0 amp output, and slowly drops down to 0.00 volts output and shortly thereafter Imax <br><br>charger stops charging, with meter saying 12.60 This takes about 45 minutes. A check with a multimeter says approximately 4.2 volts volts, on each cell. Temperature of battery number 2 does not <br><br>rise, everthing seems normal.<br><br>2 questions.<br><br>1/ Why is this happening?<br><br>2/ can I hurt either charger and or number 2 battery as it stands now?<br><br>thanks</p>
Hi so im having a problem i have a drone the battery it came with only shows 7.4v 1300mAh but dont show the c value how can i find this out as i wand to run a 7.4v 2800mAh 20c or is that to much or to little plz help thanks
<p>Hi adamb202, c rating can never be too high. If you have 20c pack and drone requires 10c to fly then it is fine. If drone requires 30c the battery gets too hot and it might catch fire. Better safe than sorry, look at other drones of similar size and weight and see what is their recommended battery pack c rating. </p>
<p>I have a 7.4V 500 mah, 602540-25 used to charge a battery for an H8C quadcopter. while charging it blew up and then caught on fire. I am 82 years young and need some help. Thanks,George Clark. my e-mail is aviatorex1@gmail.com</p>
<p>I recommend gens ace 5000mah lipo here, click this link</p><p>http://www.genstattu.com/gens-ace-5000mah-7-4v-50c-2s1p-hardcase-lipo-battery-659.html</p>
<p>Excellent guide, Radioactive_Legos! You qualify your opening remark (in Step 2: The Battery) with a (should); 'All LiPo batteries (should) have 2 sets of wires coming out of them: <em>discharge leads and balance leads</em> (sometimes called balance taps).</p><p>I have 8 batteries that have just 1 set of wires, which are for the JJRC H8C Quadcopter. The Quadcopter came with 1 of these batteries, plus a charger, which can only charge one battery at a time.</p><p>Are these batteries LiPo batteries, or another type of battery? In my present state of ignorance, I have a multi-charging cable, hoping to be able to charge 5 batteries at once, and a Accucel-6 50W 6A balancer/charger.</p><p>I've noticed that, although my batteries by themselves have no balancing cable, the multi-charge cable (DYX-009 Cable for JJRC H8C RC) does have what seems to be a balancing cable, and I would appreciate it if you could confirm this for me.</p><p>If I am correct in this, would I, with a modification to (DYX-009 Cable for JJRC H8C RC) the multi-cable charger input connectors, be able to charge these batteries whilst also balancing them?</p><p>Thank you in advance</p>
<p>I am using a 3S 5800 mAh 60C LiPo for my senior project. This guide is SO HELPFUL! THANK YOU SO MUCH for writing it.</p><p>This battery scares the hell out of me and we've set a requirement of having a battery recharge circuit as part of our project. </p>
Nice, detailed explaination. Thank you for this.<br><br>I remember while replacing the battery connectors on my first LiPo battery, I used bare metal scissors to cut both the wires in a single cut, which shorted them...luckily there was no fire, only a spark and the battery died. Never be in a hurry with LiPo batteries!
<p>My oldest set of four battery's have a flight time of 5mins, 3.7v. 720 mAh. My new set (same size) have a flight time of 8.5mins. Can my old set be revived?. Cliff.</p>
<p>please i have a tablet battery (4800mAh 3.7v 3082150) which had two red wires and two black wires. can i replace it with one which has the same specs but single red wire and a single black wire?</p>
<p>Ehhh, I wouldn't recommend it. It's probably a 1S2P pack, so there are two cells in there. The tablet could be reading voltages from both cells while in use, so dropping in a single cell LiPo could confuse and/or damage it. Unless it's an OEM part or you've read of other people doing this for your particular device, I wouldn't risk it.</p>
<p>I'm highly doubtful that it's a 1S2P pack, and if it were by some freak occurrence a parallel pack - it would not require the cells to be balanced. Parallel packs do not require the cells to be balanced, as current is divided evenly for the most part between all of the cells in the parallel circuit. Whereas in a series pack, the cell with the lower voltage (or higher internal resistance) will be the &quot;weak link in the chain&quot; and will have a chance of either over-discharging or over-charging if not balanced. I know these things, being that I'm an electrician as well as being really into electronics and quadrotors as hobbies - I live and breathe this stuff ;) Plus a simple googling will tell you that most cell phone batteries either have a thermistor or will have protection circuits that communicate with the device over a single conductor in the case of a 3-pin battery. You could probably trick the device into thinking it has a temperature probe by using a resistor, but without knowing the device or the information on the original battery there's no way to know for sure as these things vary between manufacturers.</p>
<p>Great, so it sounds like we're in agreement that <a href="/member/KofiA5" rel="nofollow">KofiA5</a> should stick with OEM batteries :)</p>
<p>Thank you very much for one of the best descriptions avail! Unless we have a more comprehensive system of LiPo charging and maintenance (which is up to those crazy manufacturers, imagine you had to go through all this to charge your cell phone!) this is outstanding.</p>
<p>Incredibly useful! Thank you for taking the time to provide information like this, and the best part it it's free.</p>
<p>Why are most LiPo charger/balancer/dischargers limited to 1.0 Amp. max discharge rate? When I want to discharge a 5000mAh battery to storage levels, it takes forever. What do other people do so that their expensive LiPos are safe and balanced for storage?</p>
<p>do i need to charge it again after i put in storage fuction..?</p>
<p>That $9 deal blossoms into a $20 deal when they ship it to you. It's a great deal if you can go to the store in Miami and pick it up.</p>
<p>Can anyone please tell me the function of each wire in the battery (Image attached). It's a tablet battery.</p><p>Or can anyone direct to a resource that illustrates the wiring of a Lipo battery.</p><p>I'd be grateful!</p><p>Thanks</p><p>~amol</p>
<p>Actually, that's a 1S2P battery, the pinout is:</p><p>2 red = 1 (+) from each cell</p><p>2 black = 1 (-) from each cell</p><p>Yellow, brown, green = balance leads. 1 (+) from each cell and 1 (-) connected to both cells. You can determine the specific function of each of these 3 wires with a DVOM; you will have 3.7v positive on 2 of the balance wires when measured with the 3rd balance wire as negative. If one pair of balance wires give you -3.7 volts, then the wire connected to your DVOM (+) is the negative balance wire for both cells, if one pair of the balance wires reads 0v, they are the (+) balance wires from each of the 2 cells, and the one you are not connected to is the (-) balance wire. It should take you less than a minute to determine the function of these 3 wires.</p><p>This is a common battery pack configuration for high continuous current draw items such as the tablet that this battery is designed for.</p>
<p>Hi there, your battery is a single cell Lipo with a capacity of 3.7 amp hours.</p><p>when fully charged it should show 4.2 volts.</p><p>when half charged it should show 3.7 volts.</p><p>and when fully discharged it should show 3 volts. </p><p>the wires most likely are the two black will be the negative and the two red will be the positive and the other wires will be for sensing the temp and charge state of the battery to prevent you from over charging or discharging and to prevent it getting to hot, also on most laptop and tablet battery's they store how many times you have charged and discharged the battery and at a certain number it will stop allowing you to charge it which is done to help prevent it from bursting into fire (and also to make you to buy a new one)</p><p>On most Lipo's that people use for RC models you get two plugs one with the main wires for discharging and charging the battery and the second for checking the charge of each separate cell and to allow you to balance all the cells so they are all at the same voltage.</p><p>So on a 2s battery the second connector will have 3 wires one negative one from the positive of the first cell and one from the positive of the second cell.</p><p>On a 3s battery the second connector will have 4 wires one negative, one from the positive of the first cell and one from the positive of the second cell and one from the positive of the third cell and so on.</p><p>I hope this may help you understand Lipo's</p><p>Regards Poppy Ann.</p>
<p>It is Li-ion battery, not LiPo...</p>
<p>It says Li-Polymer right on the label. That is indeed a LiPo battery.</p>
<p>Hi, I bought one of these.</p><p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/6800mAh-13000mAh-Super-Li-ion-Battery/dp/B00V7MZRKS" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/6800mAh-13000mAh-Super-Li-io...</a></p><p>It came with a charger but no instructions.</p><p>I don't want to over charge it or damage it but have no idea how long it should take to charge. </p><p>Do you think there would be any kind of charge protection?</p><p>Thanks.</p>
<p>hi ,A good new for you. gens ace lipo local in USA now! 25c-2200-3s1p promo price is only $8.99 but Maximum 5 Qty Allowed in Shopping Cart !</p><p>http://www.genstattu.com/ga-b-25c-2200-3s1p.html</p>
The charger is a Walkera GA005 balance charger
The charger is a Walkera GA005 balance charger
The charger is a Walkera GA005 balance charger
The charger is a Walkera GA005 balance charger
I got my walkers runner 250 yesterday, so I charged my 3s 25c 11.1v 2200mah battery and flew the drone and charged it a couple more times etc.. So I made this thing with pins and headers so I could charge the battery and check each cell to see if they were charging and not over charged and I accidentally put the battery balance pins in reverse onto the thing I made and smoke came out the vents of the charger and I immediately disconnected the battery. The red light flashes to say its charging but it doesn't even charge the battery, it just stays at its discharged voltage after flying(shown). I opened the charger up and there is 4 relays that obviously turn the charger on when the battery is detected and I cant here them click as they switch over, so there's either a transistor mangled inside is this fixable? Or do I have to buy a charger that has a screen and heaps of functions? <br>Much appreciated if someone could help Me :)<br>
<p>sorry my question didnt show up , so trying again,.</p><p>My question is do you ever discharge and charge singularly or a series of cycles after normal use of a Lipo. I`m also dont understand disharging/charging to measure capacity , could you please explain how and why?</p>
<p>Hi Colin,</p><p>I am not sure what you are asking where you have put &quot;do you ever discharge and charge singularly or a series of cycles after normal use&quot;</p><p>most people recharge their Lipo's after each use depending on how much use they have made of them, if you have only run it for a couple of minutes and it is still above half charge then you may use it again for a short time.</p><p>it really depends on the person and on what you are using it for if it is below 3.7 volts (half discharged) and you want to go for a long flight in a high prices model then you are taking a chance of loosing control of your model so unless you want to chance the loss of the model then either do not fly or replace the battery, when I am going to go flying I check all my battery's the night before and any that are below 4 volts get recharged and then when I am about to fly the first thing I check is the voltage of the battery then the controls of the aircraft if there is a problem with either then I do not fly it is better to wast a trip to the flying site than to loose the model.</p><p>A battery is made up of a number of separate cells and depending on how it is wired up it will give out a certain voltage at a certain Ah (Amps per hour).</p><p>On Lipo's each cell will give out when charged 4.2 volts and depending on how they are built each cell will have a certain capacity which for most depends on the physical size of the cell.</p><p>so if you have a battery with 6 cells of 1Ah it could be wired up as either:-</p><p>6s1p which is all six cells in series which will give 6x4.2 volts=25.2 volts @ 1Ah volts.</p><p> 3s2p which is 3 cells in series twice which will give 3x4.2 volts=12.6 volts @ 2Ah.</p><p>2s3p (which is unusual) which is 2 cells in series 3 times which will give 2x4.2 volts=8.4 volts @ 3Ah.</p><p>as always I have gone on a little to much but I hope it helps you.</p><p>Regards Poppy Ann.</p>
<p>Brilliant Instructable. Thanks very much.</p>
Thanks for the awesome instructable.
<p>thank you for this great post. covering all the basics.. however I have a few questions about the mini lipo batteries for mini quadcopters. </p><p>these batteries are usually 3.7V, 240mAh and 25C but can go upto 800mAh</p><p>my main question is do you think these usb chargers are okay to use? they are supposed to turn off once it reaches 4.2V - I have been using them heavily the last 2 weeks without problems, but I always set a timer for about 40 minutes and check the voltage with a multimeter at this minute mark. just to be safe. however i did catch one time that the battery was at 4.4V after charged. it looked a bit bloated as well. however i keep using this battery still with extreme care now. and its still going strong.</p><p>and can I plug in these mini batteries to a more advanced charger as yours above? i don't think there is a charge rate mentioned on the battery to calculate how fast/slow to charge them. i'm guessing these are all single cells.??</p><p>here is a link; <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Attop-YD-928-Charger-Battery-3-7v-380mAh-25c-LiPo-USB-Propeller-Blades-Props-M-/121655654902?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c533df9f6" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/Attop-YD-928-Charger-Batte...</a></p><p>as you can see there are no real info on these batteries anywhere, not even printed on them..</p>
<p>Hello there! <br><br>What if i have 5200mah 3cell battery? But the charger has max 5.0A( for 1C charge rate) for 11.1(3s). Is it okay to charge the Lipo at 5.0A?<br><br>Thank you!<br>Sarthak</p>
<p>In general, you can charge a pack more slowly with complete safety. It's actually less stressful on the battery pack and will prolong its life, at the expense of increased charge times.</p><p>The critical point is to match the charger's charge voltage to the cell you are using. The voltage is what the charger uses to detect the charge state. If the voltage spec of the charger matches the nominal voltage of the battery pack you're probably OK.</p>
<p>Thanks! </p>
<p>I plan to use a lithium polymer battery to power an Arduino project, but to charge it from a solar cell. I will use a charger such as this one from DFRobot http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&amp;product_id=1139, but can you advise on whether it is OK to charge the battery on a much lower current than the rated values or will this reduce battery capacity?</p>
<p>Definitely OK to charge using lower current. Just don't exceed the &quot;stop charging me&quot; voltage of 4.2 v. Stopping even earlier (eg, 4v) will prolong the life of the cell and still give you 50-70% (approx) of the total possible charge.</p>
<p>Hey there, sorry for the late reply. As far as I know, there aren't any downsides to charging a LiPo with sub-C currents, besides the longer charge time.</p>
<p>Hey all,</p><p>I've got a 7.4v WE 1200mAh 20c LiPo battery for my airsoft rifle, but it wont charge anymore. The charger/balancer keeps telling me &quot;Low Voltage Warning&quot;. Also the battery feels a little 'bloated' if you know what I mean. Any tips on how to proceed?<br>I was going to just throw it out and buy a new one, but I am curious if there is any way to salvage it.<br><br>Thanks in advance.<br></p>
<p>I suspect this battery was charged on the wrong charger, and now it's been overcharged, causing the cell to bloat and plate the electrodes with metallic Lithium. The cell is probably ruined and unsafe to use.</p><p>I would make certain that your charger is for 2S configurations, not 3S. A 3S charger will keep shoving current into the battery, trying to get the voltage up... it all kinda makes sense if your charger is warning &quot;low voltage&quot;... it sees 7.4 instead of 11.1 volts, and thinks there's something wrong with the battery.</p><p>Sorry to say, by now there is... Chucking it is the right plan. Might want to get a geek to check your charger for you, too.</p>
<p>Some things to note about Lithium batteries in general... just to reiterate!</p><p>1) if mishandled, they are DANGEROUS. They will explode and catch fire, no joke! Overcharging, overdischarging (too much current/short circuit) etc.. not good. Fortunately, may come with protection circuitry built in (amazing!). I think these RC high-discharge cells possibly would NOT be protected, so be respectful of the danger if mishandled (charged the wrong way, etc).</p><p>2) Li-Po describes a method of construction for the cell (polymer electrolyte element). The cells could have Lithium Ion chemistry (lithium-metal) or they could possibly have another chemistry (eg Lithium Iron Phosphate). The chemistry changes the cell voltage! The cell voltage determines which charger must be used! Be certain of your cell NOMINAL voltage, and that it matches what your charger will handle! Charging a Li-Fe-PO4 cell with a Li-Ion charger will damage or explode the cell, or cause a fire, quite possibly, and will almost definitely ruin the cell via overcharging.</p><p>3) The best way to prolong the life of your Lithium cell is to not overcharge it, or try to &quot;top it off&quot; to the max charge voltage. This last 20% of the cell capacity stresses the cell due to the high voltage, and significantly reduces the service life of the battery. Most products want that full charge, so they can tout total standby or operating hours per full charge, but that kills the cell before its time.</p><p>You can really extend the cell's life by only charging it to the constant current cutoff point, where the charger switches into constant-voltage mode, or even a little before that point. This can extend the life of the cell 3 to 5 times over the usual &quot;top off&quot; charge, but of course, at the expense of less charge stored meaning less run time for the battery during use. It's also better to drain the cell pretty well before charging it again, rather than trying to top it off every time, even if only slightly discharged. Once again, this is to avoid the high charging voltage regime, where the battery gets stressed.</p><p>If you want to store a cell, the recommendation is to charge it to about 40% capacity before putting it on the shelf.</p><p>Hope this helps!</p>
<p>Great instructable.</p><p>I think it's worth saying that a Lipo cell should not be Discharged under 3.0V UNDER LOAD. </p><p>At rest the battery might be over 3V per cell but if you put some load on it it might go under quickly if it is discharged, or if the appliance take too much current. The higher the current, the higher the voltage drop. And that is how people ruin the batteries sometimes specially when using them for radio control . Also when used on low current setups, the voltage threshold should be set higher. For example on a radio control transmitter the current consumption is very low, meaning that the voltage drop is also very low. If you set an alarm too low, the battery will be completely discharged but the voltage will still be above the low voltage alarm setting for a while, and then it will suddenly drop, leaving you no time to do anything before your appliance turns off and the battery probably gets destroyed. In low current setups it is wise setting the alarm/cutoff at 3,7V per cell. This setting will leave the battery with around 20% of it's capacity, which I think it is recommended. I hope this comment is useful to someone..</p>
<p>is it possible to charge a 12v lipo without connecting the balance lead to the charger?</p><p>I have a 12v 3S lipo and I want to charge it without the balance lead connected cause I want to put it inside my speaker and the lead is too short.</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: A Bay Area native interested in electronics, mechanics, and robotics, and automobiles. Formerly the electronics captain of Team 100 in the FIRST Robotics Competition, I ... More »
More by Radioactive_Legos:Lithium Polymer Etiquette: A Comprehensive Guide to Working with LiPoElectrically Insulated Altoids TinIncredible DIY iPhone Macro
Add instructable to: