We also live in Indiana and are getting married in Colorado. Needing ten to twelve lamps also means that shipping completed 106mm2 lamps would be cost prohibitive. I need these lamp to be flat-packable and capable of being rapidly assembled. I also need the light to last for 4-5 hours. The LED will draw ~200mA, so two AAA batteries will power it @3V for about 5 hours. I had originally wanted to use coin cell batteries, but they wouldn't last long with this powerful diode. Once I knew what parts I would be using, it was time to design.
Step 1: Parts, Tools & Files
Bright LED http://www.adafruit.com/products/518
AAA battery holder http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062246
3-d printed parts ---- I printed these, but they could be sent to ShapeWays or other service.
Hot Glue gun
solder iron or conductive glue
FILES & LINKS:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:78719 Derivative of Makerbots Lithopane that I've used. No border or hole.
https://tinkercad.com/things/6C7zxGfTRaP-litholamptop/edit TinkerCad File. Delete my picture and insert your own.
http://www.pixlr.com Web based image editor used to crop and reverse pictures. Use whatever image program you like.
Step 2: Preparing Your Pictures
With the customizer you can pick different slicing heights(translates to resolution level) for you lithophane. My printer is capable of pulling out 1mm prints so I have chosen that. Printing in purple filament makes things much darker than a natural or white filament, so I achieve best results with about 15 layers. I also set the "Flow Rate" to about 70 in Repetier Host. This keeps globbing down and my prints sharp. Use whatever settings you find best for your printer.
Pictures with well defined features work better. And for my purposes here, close shots of faces are what I am wanting.
Pixlr does a great job at all of this and even though I am not an experienced user with it, I was able to do what I needed with the files relatively quickly.
Step 3: The Sides
To make the litho's, simply go to Thingiverse and use the Customizer.
It might take a few times before you dial your setting down right. Don't be discouraged if your pictures don't come out right the first time. Try changing the resolution, slicing program, image contrast and whatever other settings might be hindering your prints. One thing that really worked for me was to lower the Z screw by 1-2mm between areas and starve the print by limiting the flow rate of filament.
Step 4: Creating a Top
This was among the more difficult parts of this process. I used tinkerCad for this because I couldn't figure out how to import .stl files into 123D design. It may not be possible or I may not be smart enough to figure it out. This was one of my first attempts at designing 3D part and these software suites made it real easy. For this model, I made one side of the rail with three different box at different heights. I married the boxes together, copied them and resized them for the other sides. I then had to use the 'box hollow" tool to regroove the corners where the sides intersected.
To use this file, go to tinkercad.com, open the file, delete my lithopane picture and insert your own.
Step 5: Making a Base
This must be printed with support, pictures below show me removing the support with a handy pocket knife. The design is not perfect, but it'll do for this purpose.
I couldn't upload the 123D files, so I have linked to them below.
Step 6: Side Supports
Step 7: Putting It All Together
Special thanks to MakerBot for creating the Lithophane customizer.
Also thanks to Autodesk for providing such great software for free.
And last but not least, Thanks to my beautiful fiance for letting my add some tinkering to our wedding.
Step 8: More Photos
I hope you've enjoyed this instructable and please vote for this in the 3-D printing contest.