Need a temporary, affordable, all-season, and comfortable dwelling?
Try building a greenhouse with a tent inside.
Introduction:
The idea stemmed from my love of modern backpacking tents. They use a 'floor-to-ceiling' rainfly that covers the tent. The tents themselves are made primarily of screen to keep insects out and stay well ventilated. My rainflys are a greenhouse cover in the winter season, and an opaque, heavy-duty tarp (used billboard) in the summer months.
History:
Like most inventions, this was born out of necessity. I needed a dwelling that was temporary, but solid enough to withstand the harsh climate of northern Minnesota. I was saving to purchase my own peice of land, so the idea was to build something that could be dissassembled and moved easily(being that I was squatting on family property). The project started as a canvas tent on a wooden platform, but quickly transformed into something completely unforeseen. I took inspiration from seeing hoop houses used as storage sheds, and the availability of a used billboard supplier in Minneapolis (cedar ave & E. 28th st), not to mention the crazy, backwoods ideas of some good friends.
The Nitty-Gritty:
-The Frame: of the greenhouse is 18 gauge chain link fence top-rail, available at any hardware store. I bent the hoops myself with the help of a jig I bought (http://www.lostcreek.net/) and purchased the connecting hardware from www.growerssupply.com/ Hoops are doubled towards the middle in 2 places: the stove pipe exit, and the peak of the canvas tent. Each end of the hoops are secured directly to the sides of the floor.
-The Spine: is a 1/2" steel cable (dumpster score) that is anchored fore and aft, runs through the maple logs on either end, and is anchored on both sides. The idea was to stop a tree from crushing me in my sleep during our epic november storms (think edmond fitzgerald).
-The Floor: is built like a house. Green-treated 4x4's, and a platform of 2x6's and 3/4" plywood. This rests on concrete discs I made by pouring quick-crete into 1 gallon ice cream pails. I wanted this to be semi-permanent, so pouring pilings was out of the question.
-The Rain-Flys: consist of 6 mil translucent greenhouse fabric in winter and covered by a 15 mil cross-stitched tarp (http://www.billboardtarps.com/) in summer. I used grommets to create folded pockets on all side of both materials in which I inserted toprail through the length and rope at either end that is cinched and tied off to the platform. Both of these have withstood gale-force winds without a budge.
-The Tent: is a GP Army canvas tent. It was a purchase of convenience. Some friends of mine had lived in it for a number of seasons, and were getting rid of it. This tent is a hexagon shape, however a square shape may be more space efficient, but not as heat efficient. I attached it to the platform by using 8' 2x2's along the bottom of each wall and screwed them down. The center pole is replaced by a threaded dowel attached to the Frame and bolted from the inside until taught. All of the guy lines were then attached to the frame in appropriate places to alleviate the need for internal poles.
-The Lonely Window: was the greatest thing I did to this thing. After a long winter without one, it made a huge difference. These tents are made to be blacked out (no light in or out) so depending on electric lights in the middle of the day sucked and made it feel very cave-like. I framed one of the south facing walls and added a single pane window (garage sale score, $1). I also wired an outlet and light switch, and hung a fire extinguisher while I was at it.
-The Gable Ends: are a simple 2x4 frame using lots of 45 degree bracing. The aft looks similar. I think my design is pretty, but there are all sorts of ways to do it. Browse greenhouse photos for awhile and they all start to look alike. The main entrance door is on 2-way hinges (dumpster score) so it feels very saloon-like. The big door is hinged from the top to create an awning when extended.
-The Stove: is run through an existing high-temperature rubber pipe hole in the tent and through a thimble attached to the frame (where the hoops are doubled 1 foot apart). I used a tar-tape from growers supply to adhear the greenhouse fabric to the thimble that's made for just that purpose.
-The Rain Collection: is a vinyl gutter mounted on and under an 'angle iron' shaped 2x4 and 2x2 that run the length of the tent (it's better just to look at the picture). It pours into a 40 gallon water barrel and overflows into a 55 gallon former-bbq-sauce barrel. Allows me to wash clothes and dishes without hauling water (just the potable stuff needs to be hauled).
The Performance:
I will preface by saying that this is a tent. It wouldn't be fair to compare it to a permanent structure.
Wind:The structure of the tent has withstood 70 mph winds without a budge, which leads me to believe it could take even more.
Snow: loads were a large concern, however, the warmth of the greenhouse keeps the snow from sticking to the peak and it slides right off.
Humidity: was another concern, but running a wood stove (even within the canvas tent) is enough to alleviate most of the dripping from inside the greenhouse plastic.
Fire: has always been on the top of my safety concerns, and the stove pipe/stove setup is safer than alot I've seen in wooden structures. Aside from the floor itself, there are not many combustables in the surrounding area. The tent, greenhouse plastic, and carpeting (dumpster score) are all fire retardant and the stove rests on a tile patch work. Plus a fire extinguisher on hand.
Insulation: value is probably 1/2 (maybe 1/4?). The outer shell is quite wind proof which reduces alot of drafts, but does little for heat retention. The canvas tent has an inner cotton liner that I also suspend comforters from for added insulation, but it's definately not an insulated house. An oversized woodstove it necassary to keep warm on cold February nights.
Solar Gain: from the greenhouse can be quite powerful. On a clear day at 10 degrees, it can be upwards of 45 degrees within the canvas tent. This winter, I plan I experimenting with heatsink rocks.
I'll be happy to field any questions, and thanks for reading.
Try building a greenhouse with a tent inside.
Introduction:
The idea stemmed from my love of modern backpacking tents. They use a 'floor-to-ceiling' rainfly that covers the tent. The tents themselves are made primarily of screen to keep insects out and stay well ventilated. My rainflys are a greenhouse cover in the winter season, and an opaque, heavy-duty tarp (used billboard) in the summer months.
History:
Like most inventions, this was born out of necessity. I needed a dwelling that was temporary, but solid enough to withstand the harsh climate of northern Minnesota. I was saving to purchase my own peice of land, so the idea was to build something that could be dissassembled and moved easily(being that I was squatting on family property). The project started as a canvas tent on a wooden platform, but quickly transformed into something completely unforeseen. I took inspiration from seeing hoop houses used as storage sheds, and the availability of a used billboard supplier in Minneapolis (cedar ave & E. 28th st), not to mention the crazy, backwoods ideas of some good friends.
The Nitty-Gritty:
-The Frame: of the greenhouse is 18 gauge chain link fence top-rail, available at any hardware store. I bent the hoops myself with the help of a jig I bought (http://www.lostcreek.net/) and purchased the connecting hardware from www.growerssupply.com/ Hoops are doubled towards the middle in 2 places: the stove pipe exit, and the peak of the canvas tent. Each end of the hoops are secured directly to the sides of the floor.
-The Spine: is a 1/2" steel cable (dumpster score) that is anchored fore and aft, runs through the maple logs on either end, and is anchored on both sides. The idea was to stop a tree from crushing me in my sleep during our epic november storms (think edmond fitzgerald).
-The Floor: is built like a house. Green-treated 4x4's, and a platform of 2x6's and 3/4" plywood. This rests on concrete discs I made by pouring quick-crete into 1 gallon ice cream pails. I wanted this to be semi-permanent, so pouring pilings was out of the question.
-The Rain-Flys: consist of 6 mil translucent greenhouse fabric in winter and covered by a 15 mil cross-stitched tarp (http://www.billboardtarps.com/) in summer. I used grommets to create folded pockets on all side of both materials in which I inserted toprail through the length and rope at either end that is cinched and tied off to the platform. Both of these have withstood gale-force winds without a budge.
-The Tent: is a GP Army canvas tent. It was a purchase of convenience. Some friends of mine had lived in it for a number of seasons, and were getting rid of it. This tent is a hexagon shape, however a square shape may be more space efficient, but not as heat efficient. I attached it to the platform by using 8' 2x2's along the bottom of each wall and screwed them down. The center pole is replaced by a threaded dowel attached to the Frame and bolted from the inside until taught. All of the guy lines were then attached to the frame in appropriate places to alleviate the need for internal poles.
-The Lonely Window: was the greatest thing I did to this thing. After a long winter without one, it made a huge difference. These tents are made to be blacked out (no light in or out) so depending on electric lights in the middle of the day sucked and made it feel very cave-like. I framed one of the south facing walls and added a single pane window (garage sale score, $1). I also wired an outlet and light switch, and hung a fire extinguisher while I was at it.
-The Gable Ends: are a simple 2x4 frame using lots of 45 degree bracing. The aft looks similar. I think my design is pretty, but there are all sorts of ways to do it. Browse greenhouse photos for awhile and they all start to look alike. The main entrance door is on 2-way hinges (dumpster score) so it feels very saloon-like. The big door is hinged from the top to create an awning when extended.
-The Stove: is run through an existing high-temperature rubber pipe hole in the tent and through a thimble attached to the frame (where the hoops are doubled 1 foot apart). I used a tar-tape from growers supply to adhear the greenhouse fabric to the thimble that's made for just that purpose.
-The Rain Collection: is a vinyl gutter mounted on and under an 'angle iron' shaped 2x4 and 2x2 that run the length of the tent (it's better just to look at the picture). It pours into a 40 gallon water barrel and overflows into a 55 gallon former-bbq-sauce barrel. Allows me to wash clothes and dishes without hauling water (just the potable stuff needs to be hauled).
The Performance:
I will preface by saying that this is a tent. It wouldn't be fair to compare it to a permanent structure.
Wind:The structure of the tent has withstood 70 mph winds without a budge, which leads me to believe it could take even more.
Snow: loads were a large concern, however, the warmth of the greenhouse keeps the snow from sticking to the peak and it slides right off.
Humidity: was another concern, but running a wood stove (even within the canvas tent) is enough to alleviate most of the dripping from inside the greenhouse plastic.
Fire: has always been on the top of my safety concerns, and the stove pipe/stove setup is safer than alot I've seen in wooden structures. Aside from the floor itself, there are not many combustables in the surrounding area. The tent, greenhouse plastic, and carpeting (dumpster score) are all fire retardant and the stove rests on a tile patch work. Plus a fire extinguisher on hand.
Insulation: value is probably 1/2 (maybe 1/4?). The outer shell is quite wind proof which reduces alot of drafts, but does little for heat retention. The canvas tent has an inner cotton liner that I also suspend comforters from for added insulation, but it's definately not an insulated house. An oversized woodstove it necassary to keep warm on cold February nights.
Solar Gain: from the greenhouse can be quite powerful. On a clear day at 10 degrees, it can be upwards of 45 degrees within the canvas tent. This winter, I plan I experimenting with heatsink rocks.
I'll be happy to field any questions, and thanks for reading.
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Thank you
This reminds me of a P.A.D. or a "TINYHOUSE" re Portland Alternative Dwelling
Imagine a suspension bridge, but instead of holding up a road surface below, its holding a horizontal pipe 20 feet long and 11 feet high. The 2 ends of this 'bridge' are 15' maple logs (minus 3 feet buried) with 1/2" holes drilled staight through the center at 11 feet off the ground. The 1/2" steel cable is run through the logs and the horizontal pipe inbetween. From there it's directed at a 45 degree angle to the ground at which it is anchored.
I'll upload pictures of as much as can be reasonable shown with photos.
more efficiently use the space inside? Your structure has stood the test of time in America.
If there is sufficient money; I would offer Tyvek and radiant foil/radiant foil and bubblewrap or plain bubblewrap insulation inside the supports with the Tyvek or plastic on the outside. www.GrowersSupply.com is one source. They are both pretty pricey for my (non-existent) budget. I will have to leave the experimentation to others.
As an aside, there is a non-adhesive "tape" available from greenhouse/hoophouse suppliers designed specifically to protect the plastic from rubbing through and and pulling through. (Would using adhesive tape and/or strips of the covering plastic to attach braided cord or the ubiquitous paracord along both sides of the support hoops/poles and sewing something like fishing line (Spyderwire anyone?) before taping the seams be an effective way to prevent the plastic from ripping loose?)
Something to look into for the cold season. Rocket Mass Heater. I am sure you could add in a small home made and simple one.
http://www.richsoil.com/rocket-stove-mass-heater.jsp
A little something to help you out on your adventure!
I bet you can buy a cheap greenhouse (or better yet a used frame!) and cover it with a tarp a lot cheaper than the cost of one of those commercial shelters. You still get kudos for a "DIY" and/or "on the cheap" method!
http://www.bae.ncsu.edu/programs/extension/publicat/postharv/green/small_greenhouse.pdf
Good luck over the winter!
My understanding is that each inch of air gap is functionally equivalent R=1 insulation. The 'envelope' type construction has been around for years (Mears Greenhouse design didn't even need the wood stove with solar greenhouse heat from its thermal mass). Thermal mass could be rocks/bricks,compost or water in barrels...
I do know that hoop houses are known for humidty problems- I ran across a recent water conservation design and am adding my own twist- having the plastic at the HH base in an 'S' configuration to collect the night time condensate on the inside and the rain/dew on the outside. Haven't tried it yet- am still in process on my own 'envelope' design(s)(one man's spare time in Wake County) .Last year was a mild winter here and My doublewide heat only ran at night-I've since added some 'mass'(still need more...)
Summertime interior shade cloth could power the ventilation.
Composting toilets aren't built to remediate waste usually (more like portable latrines-sawdust buckets(slop pots?) come to mind.) Better versions would probably use small amounts of water(grey?) and a rotating drum with a squeegee/brush and would need to be emptied from time to time- minimalist water usage if hooked to septic or city sewage. Toilets were around 40%, showers20%,clothes and dishes 20% of water usage.
I like this idea of letting the second layer hang loose, but would it still need to be securely cinched at both gable ends like the first layer?
Where exactly were the stryofoam spacers and how were the secured?
I framed venting windows at the top of each gable end, so venting should not be an issue once better insulated, however I wonder the amount of electricity it would take to power both blowers. If it insulates as well as you say, I suppose it'd be worth it (at least for the sake of science!).
Thank you for your input.
cool in summer/warm in winter-i put cheesecloth at water barrel-glassbarrel =light=no algae-also bugs eggs out if u put cook oil on surface of water-peat moss toilet kept under a dry cover-it does not smell like leaves compost does-keep on-(edmonds fitzgerald -lol)
Platform: $500 in lumber and hardware.
Frame: $400 in top-rail and another $100+ in hardware.
Billboard: $60
Greenhouse Plastic: $150
Canvas Tent: $500
Most of the rest was recycled from garage sales, dumpsters, burn piles, junk yards, ect.
It's an investment, when I'm done living in it, I'll have a workshop, garage, and/or garden.
I'm pretty sure that should be alleviate, not eliviate.
Also, there is no mention of how you deal with waste/latrine issues? - And how does sound from the outdoors disturb you?
Outdoor sounds can be soothing, deafening (windstorms), and downright frightening (wolves, falling branches, sasquatch). I love it.
Between two sections of hoops, I mounted a metal stove-pipe 'thimble' (used in regular houses) directly to the frame. Then I overlapped the fabric by about 4" and adheared it with Flexible Flashing & Repair Tape.
The most dangerous part of running a wood stove is creosote build up and a chimney fire. I clean my pipe at least twice a winter (more than most home owners) and burn almost entirely maple wood (naturally low creosote producing).
I hoped that helped answer your question.