Introduction: Locally Grown Larch WoodShed
This was built in-situ and perpendicular to an existing woodshed which this one replicates to a degree with a few slight differences, 1. it is smaller
2. has no dividing sections
3. smaller post supports and less of a pitch on the roof
The client spec was that they wanted a wood storage and wood working area that would provide a bit of shelter
from prevailing winds and be in keeping and sympathetic to the surrounding property and outbuildings as well as using as much locally sourced material, which is what I did apart from the screws, the post supports, rawl bolts and concrete. All the timber is grown about 2-3miles and milled also about 2-3 miles away from the client's porperty, the wood comes from a local woodland which the client part owns.
Always an absolute pleasure to build with timber that has hardly travelled at all
straight from the woodland to the sawmill and straight from the sawmill to the site all within a 2-3 mile radius!
Fills me with joy!:-)
Step 1: Steel Adjustable Post Feet
These allow installation of shed posts on an uneven or sloping surface as well as providing clearance from surface water which is liable to eventually rot the posts, which is the last thing you want, especially on an exposed site such as this one. Even high resin larch will eventually rot! These are fixed into the prelaid concrete base with 12mm hex head rawl bolts 4 per post support. There are 8 shed posts in total - 4 long (at back of shed) and 4 shorter (at front) with braces between to hold it all together. I think fixing the rawl bolts into the concrete is pretty self explanatory but if you dont know how to or are unsure then just google/youtube it as I probably wont get back to your questions as quick as google ;-)
Step 2: Adjustable Steel Post Supports
Fixing these babies was rather interesting as you need to drill pilot holes in the bottom centre of the posts to guide the spike/screw section(top half of the post support) into the post nice and snug. Luckily the type of thread is almost self tapping and I drilled the holes 2 sizes smaller than the post support spikes so they screwed into the posts nice and firmly but not too difficult either. The post can then have their height adjusted according to the pitch of the surface they are on by turning the nut closer to the the top half of the post supports, again hard too explain, youtube or google this to get a better idea.(this was a job for a client so time sensitive) and could not stand around taking photos of every single step. The post supports also feature a second nut(a lock nut) so once desired height is achieved you can lock it in place by turning this nut up towards height adjusting nut. I will try to do a video on this in the future if I get the time ;-)
Step 3: First Posts Up!
I was lucky there was already an existing shed in close proximity to the one I was building as I had noone to help me to start this project. I stitched some timber across from these posts into the existing shed to keep it plum while I measured, cut, chiseled and screwed into place the first support brace. The only annoying part of the whole job was that I had to unscrew and rescrew all of the posts into their supports twice to get them properly marked up for cutting and morticing but as I always say: "Measure twice and cut once" and you will always thank yourself later even though it may seem such a chore at the time!
Step 4: Weather Tries to Bring Job to a Halt!
Fear not for the mighty tarp will stop at nothing!
Step 5: Some Sunshine Always Makes It a Pleasure!
...getting there, eventually...
Step 6: More Posts and Cross Braces Up!
... and more cross beams for extra support
This shed features three cladded sides to the prevailing weather and an open front
All the posts are notched with 1" deep x 3" wide x 4" high mortices, hence the step down on shed side braces to keep the timber's strength.
All posts used are 4"x4" while the horizontal braces are 3" x4"
The pitched roof trusses are 4"x4" posts again only because this was what the sawmill had provided at the time from the client's locally owned woodland. I think it was merely a mistake by the sawmill as the existing shed had its roof trusses made from 3x2 timber which would have been better as less weight having to be supported by the not hugely robust post supports, again time sensitive job so just made do with what was to hand!
Step 7: The Structure Starts to Come Together!
The Last of the cross braces go in...
Step 8: Roof Trusses Go Up!
These were laid on a 3m length of 3x2 larch timber which runs the length of the shed
these 2 pieces of 3x2 add extra bracing support to the already constructed uprights...
Step 9: Time to Cut the Marine Ply
12mm Marine ply was used to keep the roof as light as possible considering that roof felt was to cover this and then larch shingles over the roofing felt...
Step 10: Roofing Felt!
Once the marine ply was securely fixed to the roof trusses using 63mm decking screws it was time to roll out the roofing felt. Only took 2 lengths at just ove 3 meters each to cover the marine ply, obviously starting with the bottom half and then overlapping this with the top sheet (cant recall exactly but I think the felt is a meter wide)
Finished off with fascia boards on all sides mostly to deflect the winds from ripping both the roofing felt and the roof shingles off and also for aesthetics as well.
Step 11: The Last of the Shingles
These were supposed to be supplied in 3 different widths for me to randomise but again the wood was supplied as is due to limitations from the raw timber and not wanting to be too wasteful I ended up only getting 2 different widths of 4" and 5.5 " x 6mm thick x 14" long for the first run to allow for an overhang, the rest were all cut to 10" length and then laid in rows but repeating in a random pattern so as to keep them staggered just as you would with any roof tile or slate. The roof shingles were fixed through the roof felt into the marine ply using 25mm zinc yellow passivated posidrive screws although 20mm would have been better as I had to drive the 25mm ones in diagonally so as to give the screws a bit more bite but yet not go through the marine ply and show on the underside.
And thats it, all Done! The site is to be planted with beech hedging in the borders that surround the concrete paved area so as to provide further shelter from the almost ceaseless winds!
We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.