Step 2: Finding A Building Site

To start this off you need to find a flat spot on the ground about 15ft by 15ft. Make sure that the flat spot is not near any water or near swamp land, becaues it will make the logs rot faster. Now rake the building site so the it is only dirt.

Do insurance company's cover this??
looks great guys,good job.
not bad for your fisrt one, me and my dad made one that we are now living in, it is pretty cozy&nbsp; 4000 square feet.&nbsp; its my dads 7th &quot;cabin&quot; he built.&nbsp; good job<br />
<p>Hell,yall aint got a cabin,its a lodge,plenty of room.</p>
a 4k sq ft log cabin? got any pics? how long did it take to build?
<p>Good job,better than freezing asses off in a tent,I like it.Whats the inside measure?</p>
Also to make it more permanent you are suppose to have a foundations, could you build on an existing cellar hole left behind from hundreds of years in the woods?
How much did it cost you? Do you need to season the wood? How many does it sleep? How did you insulate it? And can you build it without nails or what not? Me and my friends are planning to build one like this in the Vermont as a sugar house in winter and a camp in summer!
My parents built numerous log cabins in my tween years and do it myself cabins are pretty easy. I'm glad to see that at 13, you and your friends didn't get hurt while building the top half. <br>A couple stupid suggestions from someone who lived years in a log home. <br>1. $10 for a small iron fan that goes on top your wood stove. The heat coming up the base of the fan causes it to turn and blow warm air around the cabin.<br>2. under your floor should have a layer of weather proofing, I.E vapor barrier. Very important for longevity and mold .<br>
Two great sugestions
I'd be very carefull before I fire that thing, you don't want to die because of carbon monoxyde
Are you talking about the stove, because It is all sealed off so we can't get cardon monoxyde posining.
I don't know about the specifics of your installation, but a very good friend of mine lost a little brother through carbon monoxyde intoxication coming from a badly tuned refurbished oil stove !
Thats to bad about your friends brother. But yes my dad is sheet metal worker and he checked it out and it does not leak. But having it leak was a big concern of mine too.
I put a stove like this in my fireplace and it worked out good when the power went out. If I left a cast iron fry pan on it all night it would be heated just right for bacon and eggs in the morning.
In such a small area I would crack a window to make sure you don't pressurize the cabin, so when someone opens the door it doesn't back draft. Leaks for the most part should draw smoke up the pipe. Like these folks tell you be safe first.
Do you think that after looking at these pictures that this cabin will hold vacuum? Don't get me wrong......I do like the work of this cabin.......I might even ask if the builder will build some for other people. ( just kidding about the contracting part.....maybe!)
In my cabin (not log) and my house, we have wood heat.&nbsp; we have 2 carbon monoxide detectors in each of the rooms.&nbsp; without opening a window or any of that stuff we have not ever had a detector other than the smoke detector go off.&nbsp; Just dont use a old rusted out stove and keep your stove vents open so it burns properly and you should be fine.<br />
Wood burner stoves if they have a small leak all it does is make it burn the wood faster because it lets air IN and sends the smoke out the pipe. Think a bit here guys. This stove in the picture is a small one compared the the one in my cabin. Dam thing could get it 90 deg inside if not careful, and opening damper all the way will pull the SMOKE through and burn all the wood in the belly. Much experience with Pot Belly Stoves.
Hence the word..........&quot;OIL BURNER&quot;........dddaaaaaa!!! Come on here! Kerosene and oil burners are not covered by a smart insurance company. Being a former Fire Fighter......these were the ones that caused most fires and deaths.
my cousin died that way.....
that is a pathetic lookin log cabin, they shouldnt come out like this
Well pardon me. I just read you were 13 when you built it
What exactly are your qualifications to make that judgment? Personally I think it looks just fine.
k say that after you build one. Then show me the pictures. I know what went into it and come on i was 13 when i built it. If you build one use only the tools that i used.
Oh 13 that explains it. It looks bad for an adult built one but awesome for a 13er. Id say avoid the expanding foam crack filler everywhere to anyone else planning to make this just flatten the sides of the logs so they sit flat.
Typically logs are chinked with a mud grass mixture. If the gaps are really big you can leave nails or pegs hanging to bridge the gaps.
nice job &hellip;<br>would love to live in one &hellip; but then Not sure the Paris - France authorities would let me build on on top of my apartment building -LOL &hellip;
pretty cool cabin! I've always wanted to do this but I lack the time and space to do it for right now... but soon I might just be PMing you with a bunch of questions.
It looks like you sealed the gaps between the logs with some of that expanding foam that comes in a can. How about using plaster? cement/mortar? adobe with plaster waterproofing? Is there any good way to insulate a log cabin? or do you just rely on a relatively large stove and extra layers of clothing? At the very least I would insulate the tin roof with some natural or construction material, preferably something non-flammable (not foam). A $30 carbon-monoxide detector would be a good life insurance policy. thanks for the instructable.
Logs themselves have an extreemly high R Value, so additional insulation inside is not needed. However the roof, floor, and cracks between the logs are a problem if not properly insulated.
I disagree, the R-value is not &quot;extremely high&quot;, it's R~1/inch according to this:<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/W/AE_wood_R-value.html">http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/W/AE_wood_R-value.html</a><br/><br/>It's not my intent to criticize this cabin design. I like it, and we can all learn from it. I'm just saying, in cold climates, it would be an improvement to add insulation, because it seems like less work to add insulation than to cut extra firewood. Maybe some insulation could go in the rounded space next to the logs, thus making a flat(er) wall. Wood ash is a great insulator, but it may settle and lose R-value. Maybe an adhesive binder would help; maybe it could be mixed as a wet slurry and then dried. Maybe another way would be to heat ash in a mold inside the stove to form a clinker of the right shape.<br/>
About what?
Frontier type built cabins....................Logs greater than 12&quot; diameter are well insulated---- no need defacing the interior logs to add insulation. There are many sites available that show the construction of Log Cabin building - Frontier Style - for you to see this about No Insulation needed.
Oh, a moisture barrier, I forgot about that. Yes, that would be good to have. Just out of curiosity, about how much time do you think you and your friend spent building this, all told? I'm assuming you had a chainsaw?
well i put plastic lining on the inside walls and it is very warm when the stove is going!

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