Introduction: Long Exposure Light Sculpture
Ultimately the most rewarding thing for me about this project is sharing it with the world. This is a very easy to construct project and very affordable on many budgets due to the flexibility in its design. We hope you enjoy this article, and let us know if you do this project by contacting us at jaredb)at(inventgeek.com.
Step 1: Parts, Bits and Bobs
For this project we will need a handful of parts. I used just stuff i had laying around. This is really a great part scavenging project!
Parts you will need: (conceptual)
• The main Frame
• Motors and battery packs
• Armatures And Counter Weights.
• Leds and Defuses
• Fasteners ( zip ties and screws)
PVC Pipe and Fittings:
For this project I wanted to focus on budget being a priority and ultimately that drove my choice to use PVC for this build. PVC Pipe is available at any home improvement store and is very inexpensive. We used 3 one inch “T” fittings and roughly 14 feet of PVC pipe to create the basic frame we built. This cost us 5.00
Aluminum Main Arm:
For the main arm on our Light Sculpture we used one half inch aluminum “U” Channel due to its strength, rigidity and its light weight. This cost us 5.00 for 1 four foot length.
Wood Secondary Arm:
For our secondary arm we are using a one half inch pine wood dowel at 36 inches long. Pine or any other light material with good rigidity will work well as a secondary arm. Cost 1.00
For this project we will need to use a couple Geared motors. Geared motors provide us with 2 highly beneficial features, the move slowly and depending on the gear ratios you can get a good deal of torque out of them to move a heavy load. It is ideal to use a smaller gear motor to power the second arm to reduce the amount of counter weights needed on this light frame. Est Cost Free - 20.00
To create a simple and strong connection to the aluminum arm we will be using a sprocket that is compatible with the drive shaft of our motor. It is a good idea to use a sprocket with an even number of teeth for this if possible
For this project I chose to use two battery packs for the motors, a 2 and a 4 battery style pack with standard 9v connectors on them for easy replacement. Both packs I picked up at our local over priced electronic supply vendor for 6.00 total.
For this project we will be connecting the sprocket to our aluminum arm with a couple ½ inch long 8-32 screws and nuts. Est cost .50
The majority of the connection points in this build will be fastened with zip ties. We chose to use zipties because they are cheap, easy to fasten and easy to remove so we can reconfigure the design this produces with ease. Est Cost 1.00
For this project we will be using some standard 5mm leds. The colors are your choice but I highly recommend using some RGB Fading LED’s for a great effect! Est Cost 3.00-5.00
Ping Pong Balls (optional):
So the final part we used in some of our shots are simple ping pong balls. These simply help to defuse the light of the led so that if the LED is not pointed at the camera it is still visible. This is good for 3D configurations. Est cost 1.00
Step 2: Assembly
1. Step one is to modify the top of our upright pole. To do this we used some cutters to make a notch the and then drilled 2 holes a inch from the top and an inch below that for zip tie mounting points.
2. Next we will find the center of our aluminum U channel pipe and using our sprocket as a guide drill 2 holes for our screws.
3. Here we have the sprocket mounted to the aluminum main arm and the motor attached for a test fit for clearances.
4. Now its time to start assembling our components. Here we can see how the frames base is assembled using the 3 T fittings.
5. Next we will mount the main drive motor (without the arm to make our lives easier) to the top of the upright. I used 2 screws in this model of motor to create a strong mounting point.
6. Here we can see the side view of the motor mount with the zip ties holding it in place. We added a switch inline and taped it to the pipe with some electrical tape so we have an easy way of starting and stopping the setup.
7. The next step is to attach the sprocket with arm to the motor. Most sprockets use a simple Alan wrench to tighten a screw that holds the motor in place. Make this screw is tight to prevent any damage to the motor.
8.Here we have the second arms drive motor attached to end of the first arm. The wires conveniently fit inside the u channel keeping them out of the way.
9. The second drive motors battery pack is mounted in the center of the primary arm to help keep the setup balanced as well as to reduce the amount of counter weights used for this build. You are welcome to power your build however you want, but one tip to take away is the more weight at the ends of the arms the more counter weights you needs. The total overall weight will determine your power needs and battery life.
10. Here we have some aluminum blocks I had laying around that I used as the counter weight for my build. It’s a good practice to have it as balanced as possible to maintain stability and create clean geometry in the time laps shots.
11. To attach our dowel to the drive shaft of the second motor we simply drilled a hole slightly smaller than the drive shaft on the motor and then pressed the dowel onto the shaft. This provides a surprisingly strong result.
Step 3: Results
Below we have some examples of our work.
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