Many people (at least where I live) know this fun children's game "Looping Louie" where the goal is to avoid getting your (chicken) discs get knocked over by the rotating plane.
A good part of those people are young adults who use this as a drinking game. As does my friend, whose birthday was coming up. Now, what makes most (drinking) games more fun? More players!
Having gotten a really good deal on a new Looping Louie game I decided I would modify his one for eight players as a birthday present.
Take two games of Looping Louie and merge them into one in the a non-destructive and aesthetically pleasing way.
This instructable makes use of (power) tools, knives and other sharp / bladed things.
These tools can cut or otherwise hurt you.
Also, as moldmaking and casting resin involves dangerous chemicals, usage of rubber gloves, work in a well-ventilated environment and extra care are advised.
Always wear eye protection and be extra careful where your fingers/hands are at any given moment. In general, before doing each step, think about what you're doing, which tools you're using and what potential dangers are involved. If you are not experienced with the use of the tools, get help from someone who is.
Step 1: Tools and Materials
- Miniature table saw (makes things faster, but hand saw will do, too)
- Disc sander (makes things faster, but sandpaper will do, too)
- Hot glue gun (optional)
- Various modeling tools
- Single edge safety razor blades
- Scale (accurate to 1g)
- Plastic cups
- Popsicle sticks
- Measuring cylinder (optional)
- Two Looping Louie games
- Green Stuff
- Hot glue
- Contact glue / cement for plastic
- Foamboard / Lego (or anything else you can construct a molding box out of)
- Modeling clay
- Silicon for molding (I used "Hobby Time Silicone Rubber RTV/NV" as it's cheap and I have access to it)
- Resin for casting (I used "Pebeo Gedeo Crystal Resin". Again, because it's affordable and I have easy access)
- Coloring for resin (optional)
Step 2: Planning the Build
Now most modders of this game just take the center part of the second game, cut off the corners, glue them to the first center part and call it a day, or the screw the game to a wooden base or something like that.
I wanted my modification to be as preserving and non-destructive as possible, so I am going a different way.
First I took a big piece of cardboard and partially assembled the game on it.
From there I determined where exactly the additional arms should sit to ensure maximum distance from all other arms. Basically a line going from the middle of the center part to the tip of an arm should exist every 45°. The additional arm will be positioned on that line in such a way that its discs will get knocked over exactly at the same point of contact as those of the regular arms.
Marking that position (see picture #2) I can now see just how that adapter I wish to build should look size-wise.
The cardboard plan will come in handy later as well when checking if all is working as it should be.
Step 3: Building the Master Adapter
To save myself from some work and to ensure a good fit I used my miniature table saw to cut off the arm holder of the center piece as close to the center piece as possible (read: Use a thin blade). The reason I used a table saw was simply to save time, I could've done this with any handsaw, hacksaw, fretsaw or similar.
A little bit of sandpaper to smooth the cut edge, then it's time to use my hot glue gun to fill the holder up with as mch hot glue as possible. I do this to save on some Green Stuff as I was running out.
Next I use Green Stuff to model the adapter, always checking back with my cardboard dry-assembly if all fits.
I first built it up bigger than necessary, let it dry, then cut it to size with the single edge safety razor blades and/or used the disc sander to grind it down, gave it a runover with sandpaper (120 grit) for good measure and if I was off, build it up again with more Green Stuff and repeated the process.
I wanted the master adapter to be as smooth and well-fitting as reasonably possible. After two days worth of modeling and remodeling I envied those with access to a 3D printer.
Anyway, the result of my efforts can be seen in pictures #3 and #4.
Step 4: Moldmaking and Casting
I rolled out modeling clay into a flat surface, then pressed my master adapter in a bit and used a modeling tool to shape the clay up against it to seal any edges and prevent silicone from flowing under it.
For the first mold (picture #2) I used foamboard pieces to make a frame. Again, modeling clay and modeling tools were used to carefully seal any and all edges and gaps, as seen in picture #2.
For the second mold (picture #3) I built a box out of lego pieces and sealed its bottom in the same way as previously.
Since silicone has self-separating properties, treatment of the mold case with separating agents is not required.
I calculated the needed volume of silicone (length x width x necessary height) and mixed it according to the instructions on the box using a scale, plasctic cup and popsicle stick. Then I carefully poured it in and let it harden / set for two days before deforming.
Thanks to a relatively long hardening time most bubbles in the silicone make their way out all by themselves, though I did tap the base of my mold box for the first couple of minutes to help speed this process up a bit.
I used a measuring cylinder and water to determine how much resin I was going to need for a cast of the master adapter. Afterwards I dried the mold off and prepared it for resin casting by thoroughly brushing on talcum powder. The talcum powder would ensure an easy deforming later on. I used plastic cups, scale and posicle sticks for mixing according to the instructions, then carefully poured the resin into the mold and let it harden for the three days it required.
After hardening I cut and sanded away any excess resin.
Finally I was done with my first clear copy!
Bonus: Coloring the resin
As I was not very happy with my adapters being clear, for the second center I got myself some coloring for resin and mixed it in with the resin according to its instructions.
Picture #3 shows my second mold (Lego-based frame), my master adapter and a clear and colored resin copy.
Step 5: Glue It All Together
Again, using my cardboard plan and a good amount of contact adhesive I attached my adapters (in this case the clear ones, albeit sanded down a bit with 120 grit sandpaper to matt them down) to the center piece of the game, following the contact adhesives' instructions. The adapters hold so well that I'd probably break the center pieces' palstic before getting them off.
The one holder that I cut off at the beginning has been subsituted with a cut-off resin copy.
And that's all there was to modifying this game for 8 players!
So far it has stood the test of time, although I have yet to get feedback of it surviving a wild party.