Acoustic instruments radiate sound in a wonderfully complex, 360 degree fashion, while conventional loudspeakers radiate in a much more boring, spotlight of sound. You could spend a ton of money on fancy products:

Hemisphere from Electrotap
Experimental Meyer Array

or you could follow these instructions to build a cheap array out of IKEA salad bowls and surplus automotive speakers. It won't sound as "accurate" as those other speakers, but it's surprisingly good and looks pretty cool on stage.

Special thanks and apologies to Dan Truman and the researchers at CNMAT, who's scientific work directly inspired this project.

P.S. Here's another cool loudspeaker array.

P.P.S The Stanford Laptop Orchestra built some nice ones here.

P.P.P.S. This one is nice, too .

Step 1: Acquire the Materials

The goal of this project was to be as cheap as possible. You'll want eight (8) loudspeakers. I would have used these speakers:

$5.50 speaker

but All Electronics was out of them. I got these, instead:

$7.50 speaker

The important considerations were an impedance of 8 ohms (which is normal for home stereo speakers) and good frequency range. (in this case 70-10k Hertz). Sound localization is more acute at higher frequencies, so response >1k Hertz is especially important. It would be better to add a sub-woofer to make up for thin bass, than to have no high end.

While at All Electronics, get some Speaker Terminals.

I used four (4) "quad"  terminals, but the four-pair ones look good.

(NB: If all electronics doesn't have these anymore. Try Parts Express or Radio Shack)

The other major elements in this project are the bowls. They cost $5 at IKEA:

Reda Bowls

Insanely cheap. Get two (2) sets because you need two of the biggest bowl. They also come in white. I imagined using one of each color, so this project would look like a big fishing float. Ultimately, though, solid red seemed best.

UPDATE: These bowls are no longer sold by IKEA.  Sorry.  

Finally, the miscellaneous hardware. 8 speakers x 4 mounting holes = 32. My local Ace hardware provided 32 machine bolts, locking nuts, and washers. Also, pick up 8 small nuts and bolts for the terminals. Most of the speakers were fine with 1/2" bolts, but the top and bottom ones needed longer (1 1/2") ones, as you'll see later. This may vary, if your parts are different.

- weather stripping
- speaker wire ( I had some 18 gauge stuff lying around the house, the project only needs a few feet.)
- heat shrink tubing

I once tried making an enclosure for some speakers in my car, much harder than I anticipated. have to ensure rigidity of the cabinet, sufficient volume depending on the enclosure. almost wondering if there is any back wave interference? poly fill maybe? not sure how it would sound with stereo.
<p>What's the power requirement on this?</p>
hey didnt kipkay do something like this?
That comment comes up periodically here. In 2009, I wrote: <br> <br>&quot;Kipkay did a weekend maker video based on my article in Make. However, I am far from the first person to do this. Check out the link to Dan Truman.&quot;
do you guys think a metal bowl would work well in terms of how it resonantes etc? <br><br>ikea now sells these: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50057254/<br><br>pretty good price. <br>thoughts?
what terminals are you useing in this project, the link you posted doesn't have those terminals.
i cant get it everyone says just hook up one speaker to an amp output but normal boxe`s of my radio has 4 speakers in each and just one cable <br>
Hey, great instrucable. It reminds me of a weekend project a while back. By the way most of your links appear to be broken.
Thanks. Mostly fixed now.
You are the first one that has actually fixed the links when I tell them that they are broken. You did it so fast to. Now the instrucable is even better.
Some people posted instructables in 2007 and never came back. It also takes time, and some things that go missing, you can't ever find anything with the same information.
I'm still here. Ikea stopped selling these salad bowls, though. Making an exact replica of a project doesn't seem to me to be very important, anyhow. Hopefully there's enough here to get the idea out and somebody can make a nicer version with whatever is available at the time.
Okay, I just saw this and wan't something similar. I've got some questions:<br>1 Does the one speaker do stereo ? Or am I missing something. If it's not stereo = 1, why are there 2 sets of terminals?<br><br>2 I live in Mexico and you can buy bowls like that everywhere for a dollar or 2. About how big are the bowls in diameter ?<br><br>
Yeah, I see what you're saying.
Man, it has been forever since I actually did anything on this site. I come and glance at the first page once every couple weeks but it has changed so much from when i joined I dont really like it.
how much did this end up costing you?
This is so cool, did you know it was presented on make magazine videos with Kipkay
Hey check out this project from stanford laptop orchestra (SLORK), I believe they are also referring to this project:<br>https://ccrma.stanford.edu/~njb/research/slorkSpeaker/index.htm<br>Great work by the way!
hey kipkay did thi project great job it a exact replica lol cool :)
is this a pretty common project? did kipkay rip it off? I just saw the vid too
Why not use 12 speakers arranged in a dodecahedron (solid of 12 pentagonal faces)? The speaker case could be made from card stock or foam core. Or get the type of speakers TerraCycle gets to make speakers in recycled cardboard cases.
Make it, although you might find if the speakers are perfectly arranged (as in same spacing between each one) it could look dull. Plus try different sized speakers that would give it a cool twist.
Interesting design, looks great.
ya i get it but how i will conected to the radio
You could solve the whole input problem and wire up a headphone jack to the speakers. That is, if your radio has a headphone output jack. But then I guess you would have to give the speakers there own power supply.
you need to put it through an amp and connect the speaker outputs to the red & black inputs on the sphere
Connect it to your stereo on the connectors like in the instructable
what sort of amplifier would you use for this as I'm looking to make something similar to wire to a 3.5mm jack for mp3 use, and I doubt that the player will be able to power the speaker all on its little ownsome.
Only 1 word.... C.O.O.L
dont use anything but the batting. Cloth or foam is too dense and will deaden the sound. You can stuff the insides, just dont pack it. You need the sound to resonate thru the polyester dampenig material. The key is that all the gaps from the seams and mounting around the speakers is air tight.
&nbsp;It's a very creative idea, BUT the sound waves of the speakers will work AGAINST each other...!<br /> <br /> A speaker (when in use) sends sound waves to the front but also to the back. SO when you put 2 or more speakers with the backs &nbsp;+- facing each other in the same space, you get a loss of sound and quality.<br /> In such a project, the space in which the speakers are needs to be divided.<br /> <br /> Also, the casing is to light for such and so much speakers, the vibrations will cause the casing to resonate, and resulting in a a unclear sound. It will just work well on low volume... but with these kinds of speakers i do not suppose you want to turn the volume down!<br />
Stuff it full of foam?
Not foam, polyester. And be sure the 2 halves are sealed. They need to be well sealed, or you will lose your base.
Polyester like a wall between the 2 hemispheres of the ball? it will already work better, but sparating each speaker from the rest would still be better.
Polyester like batting, acts as a dampener inside the sphere. My GB-1E's had a large piece covering each speaker inside the sphere plus wadded up inside. Dont pack it , lightly stuff it. You can get the polyester at radio shack, or spend half the money at a fabric store or walmart. No wall betweem the halves, my comment was related to the seal of the system because this is not a ported speaker. The term the origional speakers literiture had was &quot;Hermetricaly Sealed&quot;, similar to a passive radiator type speaker system. Depending in your skills, a 1/8 in thick bead of clear silicone will work just fine. Its your choice as to weather you let it cure (24 hours) prior to assembly, or use it as an adhesive seal. Just be sure all the speakers are working prior to addhearing the two pieces togeather. Worst case, the silicone can always be cut to seperate the halves with a razor knife, if repair is needed
Exactly: a dampener. Separating the speakers from each other, so the soundwaves dont ''mess' with each other, and put like: wads (i hope this is the correct word...), cloth, or something soft inside which damps the sound, resulting ina fuller sound. =)
How do mean sutff it full? also the backsides of the speakers?
FYI, I have a set of speakers that I bought overseas back in the late 60''s. they still sound as good as a set of Bose 901's. There are 8 speakers, of which 4 are hi dome tweeters with a built in crossover inside. Optimum placement is each globe is suspended in a corner, and the legnth of the chain should be the same distance from both walls and the cealing. The principal is the same as the Klepsch Infinate Baffel, where the walls and cealing are the final projector of sound. I tell you there is a huge difference in the sound as opposed to being on the floor. You google Nivico GB-1E, You can see several others like it at http://www.flickr.com/photos/teddy_qui_dit/4190293419/in/set-72157622584019059/
in order to simplify the amplification, these speaker distrubutional hubs (or the like) might do it, although i don't know how it affects the amplification. Can anyone help there? <br /> http://www.nextag.com/speaker-distribution/compare-html<br /> will they be connected in parallel then, and in that case would it still be sufficient just to connect to your amplifier?<br /> <br />
i think you could also use a buoy&nbsp; if you find it floating in the sea, the rule of the sea find it , keep it<br />
Excellent instructable.&nbsp; And bonus points for humor; beer and espresso are what fuels the DIY'er.&nbsp; <br />
i have a question about polarity, when connected properly, how does a speaker move? out or in?
As the phase of the current changes the magnetic poles will be forward, then backward. With reference to the rest position the speaker cones will move in either direction. It is therefore important to observe polarity as failure to do so will mean that while one speaker is moving outward another would be moving inward. The result is that the two acoustic waveforms would be in opposition to each other and would (at least partially) cancel each other out.<br /> <br /> You can take two speakers and connect them correctly then play some music... switch one and the music will sound flat and &quot;hollow&quot; because of missing spectra due to cancellations. <br /> <br /> Jerry<br />
I believe both ways.
then what's the difference?
None, except that the signal is 180-degrees out of phase if you switch the polarity. It only matters with multiple speakers.
so, from what i can understand, if half the speakers are wired right, and half of them are wired wrong, and you blast music, you shouldn't hear anything. I mean the sound waves inside the speaker will cancel themselves out right?
In the &quot;real world&quot; only the bass frequencies will cancel out.&nbsp; No matter how much you crank up&nbsp;the bass, or how much you add the sliders below 100Hz, you will have a net ZERO effect on the sound.&nbsp; If all are wired correctly (ie: all positives and negatives wired to their respective terminals) then the bass will bellow when you &quot;blast the music&quot;.&nbsp; Again, this comes not from theory, but from many, many, many hours and gigs, and rewires of professional grade sound equipment...rented to bands that were &quot;less than gentle&quot; with the goods.
<em>so, from what i can understand, if half the speakers are wired right, and half of them are wired wrong, and you blast music, you shouldn't hear anything.</em><br/><br/>No. You'd still hear sound, but certain frequencies would be missing at certain points in the room, due to destructive interference fringes. (This still happens even with everything wired correctly, though.)<br/>

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