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LuxO's EZ King Bed Frame is a no-nonsense, easy-to-customize bed frame design.

Our grid frame gives you even support across the entire bed. No squeaking, no moving, and extra support for your headboard to keep everything in place.

The designs to create it yourself are easy to use, too - CNC makes it a snap!

Step 1: Making Sure You Have All the Stuff You Need

Your luxOmat kit has everything you need including moral support and hand tools and all the holes are pre-drilled for you.

If you are building from scratch and need the CNC files, you can download the DXF and VCarve files here for free and the rest of the hardware can be purchased from your local hardware store, in either 1/4 20 or 6mm depending on where you hail from

There will be:

•six (6) long pieces and

•two (2) large pieces, as well as

•a packet of twenty (20) 2” ¼-20 Philips flat head machine screws and

•a packet of twenty-four (24) ¼-20 pronged tee nuts not to mention

•four (4) 1”¼-20 thumb screws with four (4) matching washers and finally

•four (4) E-Z Lok Threaded Insert, Zinc, Hex-Flanged, ¼-20 Internal Threads

You may also optionally have:

•a six outlet USB

•motion-sensing LED(s)

•Remote LED kit

TOOLS:

You will need:

- Screwdriver that matches your bolts

- 6mm Hex Wrench

- Hand Drill with 6.34mm (1/4") bit

Optional:

- Doweling Jig

- Carpenter's Square

- Dead Blow or Rubber Mallet

- That Guy's Leg

Now would also be an excellent time to do any finish work you want to do prior to assembly.

Yes, you could technically paint or stain after it’s assembled, but honestly it’s just not going to look as good. Sanding is easier too. I think I’ve made my point.

Be sure to read through the instructions before assembly. While this is technically an “EZ” level kit and it doesn’t have any glue, it does have some bits that are tricky to be sure

Step 2: Lining Up the Drill Holes for the Bolts and Tee Nuts

Draw a line in the middle of each bolt hole.

Each hole is 25mm or 1” so 12.5mm or ½” to the center for each one

Drill in the center of the wood ply with a 5/16” 8 mm drill. Drill a hole for every slot, for a total of 24 total holes

For best results, use a dowling jig and/or a wood bit that has a precision tip so your drill doesn’t wander

Step 3: Installing the Tee Nuts

Next, thread a tee nut backwards onto one of the bolts. We are going to use this as a brace to set the tee nuts into the frame

The top of the nut should spin and pull the tee nut in the base into the wood, securing it for later

The finished product should look like the last photo

Step 4: Assemble the Base

You should be ready with all the cross pieces.

Make sure the footer section is facing to the end of the frame. These are marked on one side with an “f” for “footer”

Assemble the cross sections by just sliding the pieces together

Make sure all the holes are facing up

Step 5: Attaching the Footer

Tap the remaining tee nuts into the outside on front. This is where we will attach the footer later

You don’t need a hammer but it would help

We are putting these here so when you tighten everything together it doesn’t strip out the bolt

Installing the Rivet Nuts

Take the included 6mm hex wrench, or the nice one Grandma gave you for your birthday, and screw the rivet nuts into the holes in the footer. Make sure it’s the footer, if the holes go all the way through it’s the header

Be careful not to strip them out, it’s easy to do if you’re not paying attention

Try to get them flush with the panel surface but don’t worry too much, the gap is less than 3mm and it’s really just for decoration

Step 6: Installing the Thumb Screws for the Footer

Here you will be using the thumb screws to hold the footer to the frame. The best way to do this is to just install the screws so they are sticking out a little bit so it’s easy to catch the thread on the footer

Just line up the footer panel to the screws and tighten them down

Step 7: Attaching the Header

The header is a little easier, just insert the tee nuts on the inside of the slot and tighten down all four screws. It’s not necessary but I also like to countersink these so they are flush

Step 8: Attaching the Bed Platform

Line up the holes on the header and make sure the word “front” is on the other side at the foot of the bed. Again, I like to countersink here but it’s not strictly necessary

Step 9: The Final Product

This is how the basic frame should look assembled, add a custom headboard and footer to make it really look great!

(This shows the Headboard and Footer, check out our Instructable for the Headboard and Custom Footer)

<p>Is this an advertisement?</p>
<p>It looks like design instructions to me.</p>
<p>No, not as such. While we do offer kits of designs on our site for people that don't have access to the proper equipment to do it themselves the Instructables are designed so that anyone can make these if they have access to the equipment and have the know-how to do it. </p><p>Everything I post here I post because I love making stuff and I hate getting half a design and a dream when I go looking for a proven design for something. If someone wants a bed frame they should be able to download the plans, customize it, cut it and then assemble and enjoy it.</p>

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Bio: luxOmat is dedicated to making it easy for Makers to make things, for Designers to bring their creations to life, and for their customers to ... More »
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