A year and a half ago, I published my plans on how to convert a desk lamp into a fully functioning Luxo Jr. Model. To date it is one of my most popular PIXAR builds at the Maker Faire and has proudly been featured in several Instructables guides.
This year, I have decided to rebuild him in a more exact replica manner. Upon return to Instructables, and discovering we now had 3D printers at our disposal, I was given permission to "print anything I want, as long as its imaginative and will have an Instructable included". Well, it's now been over two months now working at my dream job and I can guarantee I have certainly made good usage of that authorization :)
By modifying and converting a file I found on Google's 3D warehouse, and thanks to the good folks at our Tech Shop Annex, I was able to print a 1:1 scale replica version of PIXAR's own iconic lamp. In this instructable I will be showing how I assembled it.
Luxo Jr. rigging, courtesy of Autodesk.
Step 1: Design / Inspiration
Now, this lamp is the exact lamp as seen from the animation studio's logo and short film. Jon Westwood, who is an amazing 3D designer, created the file on google sketchup and I modified it slightly in order to make it compatible with our 3D printers. Also, interesting fact, my modified design is based off the lamp from the original 1986 short film, not the logo, which has some physical inconsistencies.
So, in short, this is the most accurate LUXO Jr. replica ever made. And considering I made the only one PRIOR to that, that's saying something.
Step 2: How to Convert Sketchup to .STL (OPTIONAL)
First, you'll need the professional version of Google Sketchup. The reason for this is that the pro version is the only way you can export your file as an .OBJ, which will be crucial to it's conversion into a 3D printable .STL file. You can download a several month long trial version from Google's website here, free: http://sketchup.google.com/product/gsup.html
After, either open up your created 3D sketchup model or download it from Google 3D warehouse. Then, go to File -> Export and select .OBJ
Then, using a 3D file repair and mesh mixing software (I used NetFabb Studio) take your sketchup file and go to Part-> Export -> .STL to convert it into an .STL file. Make sure that the project is water tight otherwise it will not print.
And that's it! Take your converted .STL file, throw it into your 3D printer's computer and then let the machine do the rest.
Step 3: Parts List & Attachment
|Print Parts List||Qty|
|Neck Rod #1||1|
|Neck Rod #2||1|
If you ever read my first instructable on my Luxo Jr. Lamp, this part listing and construction should be fairly intuitive. However, I will give the basic rundown on how to construct the pieces.
The Body consists of ten total pieces. Two V-Shaped neck joints, two neck rods, two hip joints, a rectangular leg, an H-Shaped rod with a medial bar, and two waist joints. These attack to Head and the Base of the lamp.
To connect the pieces together, I used 440 and 632 screws for holding them together, and to hold the H-Rod together to the waist joint, I used two small paperclips. I dremeled out the holes on the pieces in order to make them fit together.P
Step 4: Head and Base
Basically what I did for these two, is use a hacksaw and cut off a section from the rod-like section of both pieces, and then lightly but firmly screw them back in to their respective pieces. This provided enough of a gap in order to screw back in place, while providing the necessary gap in order to swivel.
Also, as a finishing touch, I took some small compression springs I got at OSH (two #104U 2-1/2'' lngth; 5/16'' diameter, and two #84U 1-3/4'' Lngth, 1/4'' Diameter) and attached them to both Neck Rods as well as the H-Rod to Waist Joint, respectively.
Step 5: Vacuum Formed Light Bulb
Instead, I decided to vacuum form one. This process took around a month to figure out (and I will definitely be posting an indepth instructable about that too), but for the time being basically all you need is a sheet of polystyrene, a board with a hole and a vacuum cleaner. Stick the piece of plastic in the oven, heat up the plastic, and then when it is malleable, place it over the object on your board with the hole. Turn on vacuum cleaner and it becomes a nice rigid outline. The process is more complicated than that, but overall the physics are pretty simple.
For those curious, there was really only one way to get it OUT of the plastic. Take a hammer...
Step 6: LED Lighting
This process is great because you don't even need to really glue anything inside. Using tape, attach the LED lighting to the inside of the head, and then friction lightbulb back into the head. That way you don't have to build some kind of protruding switch.
Additionally, I decided to lightly frost the bulb using some high grade fine sand paper. I think it gives it a nice diffused effect.
Step 7: Finished!