Step 5: Ammo Counter

I have not fully decided how to store the 9v battery, so I just drilled a thin hole through the ammo counter for the LED wire to pass through so a battery can be held externally (You may wish to cut out a compartment specifically for the battery.

The Ammo counter is 2 inkjet pictures sandwiched between 2 acrylic "windows". I cut away the bright blue lines from the back picture so as to make them appear brighter than the background (It's super effective!) I treated myself to a game of invasion to obtain a large screenshot of the display, and edited it out to print it off (Edit is in pics below).
(My original screenshot: http://www.bungie.net/Stats/Reach/FileDetails.aspx?fid=13838758&player=flyn21193)

You will have to resize it to fit your ammo counter's hole, but 35mm ± 2mm should suffice, so print out 5 varying sizes, and then the correct size again for the back image, and trim the white.

Epoxy the front (whole) image face down on the acrylic, and the rear (with lines cut out) image face up on the acryilc, and leave to dry, pressing gently to remove air bubbles. This should give a near perfectly adhered image protected by the acrylic (Sorry for the absence of cut out section pics). Cut the acrylic with the coping saw, leaving about 0.5mm around the edge of each, then epoxy the two together (The paper sides) and sand sown edges onse dried. Check pics if uncertain.

When assembled the display will fit snugly in the recess, and the led shines brightly through the cut sections especially, giving an x-ray or lcd effect to the darker areas.

Remove the display and wires for the next stage....... painting!
<p>One more question, how sturdy is this?</p>
<p>Pretty strong. It would probably break if it was rested on both ends and something like a medium sized dog jumped on the middle though. You can always reinforce it by putting a wooden dowel right down the middle though.<br><br>The main damage you'd see from it is dents and scratches from being dropped. while the foam isn't &quot;spongey&quot; like EVA foam, it's fairly soft and low density (Hence why it's so easily carved)</p>
<p>I am a 12 year old with a limited budget, how could I make this for cheap? </p>
<p>This is essentially the cheapest way. Either this, or use layers of foam board</p>
<p>Dude could u make on for me please. I'll pay you fifteen dollars for it</p>
<p>I'm starting to think all these newly created accounts are the same person!</p>
Could we be able to talk more about making the assault rifle and the mark V armor. I like your tutorials but im a big newbie and would appreciate it if we could work together via video chat to show me a better way to make these armors. Message me back so we could be able to talk. Thank you ~ Jeff
<p>I agree with terror kitties post/tip</p>
<p>tip: hide the battery in the magazine.</p>
<p>Heya! This is awesome, a great prop. </p><p>One question, is it possible to make the Magazine detachable to give it that extra feel to it or is it more hassle than it's worth?</p>
<p>Thanks! It depends what you make it from really. I could have easily cut off the protruding part that forms bottom of the magazine and used a long kitchen knife to cut a rectangle that went in 5-10cm inside the model, then a horizontal cut to release the top of that polystyrene &quot;block&quot;, then glued the two pieces back together. The horizontal cut line could be easily covered up with the foam details that go above the magazine on each side.<br><br>I've also seen it done with moulded fibreglass models, but since that is hollow , you'd need to spend more time making a box for the mag to slide into. I've seen a couple that used magnets to hold the mag in place, and presumably give an audible &quot;click&quot;. Whatever you decide to make it from, a detachable magazine should only add an hour or two to the total build time, so it can't hurt to include it. You could even turn it into something useful like a 4x AA battery holder to power the backlight.</p>
Did you brush or spray paint it on?
All brushed on. Definitely could have benefitted from being sealed with PVA beforehand, but it wasn't too bad for a first attempt
<p>Haha that's awesome.</p>
This is amazing.....
I would suggest drilling a hole in the aluminum tubing about where the wire comes out and feeding it through to the magazine well in the back for the 9v or maybe you could install a battery pack with a on/off switch
I'd actually doldered a small SPDT switch to the front of the 9v battery holderso it can be turned on and off without removing the battery. I didn't feel it was reallt worth the time to make an internal battery pack, since this was a low-ish quality first attempt.
Amazing instructable, I just hope mine will turn out similar <br>
yes... but will it blend?
Most certainly! Did you know Costa coffee uses Blend-Tec Blenders?
...that's freaki'n amazing...lololololololol
Thanks! Although I have to admit it pales when compared with one from 405th:<br> <a href="http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/32418-Completed-MA37-AR-from-cardboard?highlight=ma37"><br> http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/32418-Completed-MA37-AR-from-cardboard?highlight=ma37<br> </a>
What kind of foam were you using?
All I know for sure is that it wasnt Polyurethane (PU) foam. It was pretty rigid, like a cross between PU and expanded polystyrene. A quick google seems to show the closest match (Appearance-wise) is Extruded Polystyrene: <a href="http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/261262675/XPS_Extruded_Polystyrene_or_Styrofoam_Core_Material.jpg">http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/261262675/XPS_Extruded_Polystyrene_or_Styrofoam_Core_Material.jpg</a><br> <br> It doesn't break off in tiny chunks like expanded polystyrene, and is much stronger!
I looked it up and i found some Extruded Polystyrene :) Gonna go buy some this weekend but my only question is, does it matter if it is pink or blue? Coz the one i found was pink and is 5 cm the exact thickness that you need or do you need more? <br><br>Thanks in advance! ;)<br><br>
Colour is no problem! It makes no difference after painting, and the only thing i was worried about was whether LEDs might glow through the foam (The did slightly before painting, but after, it there was no light shining through).<br><br>I actually have a spare piece of the foam, so I can tell you it measured 69 x 27 x 5 cm despite my model being about 79 cm long and 7cm wide. This is because I used offcuts for the barrel and the rectangles at the rear, so you dont have to be able to completely fit the model &quot;inside&quot; the dimensions of the foam.<br><br>So, in short, pink foam is just as good, and for most weapons 5cm should be good too!
tht zombie thing does it really say break glass in case of zombie attack <br>
Link to the instructable:<br>https://www.instructables.com/id/Crowbar-Case/
No... I never got round to making the letters for it. I made some words and even some humerous picture instructions to print off on a vinyl cutter or laser cutter, but I've been too busy recently to do so. I'll update with a picture if I ever finish it.<br><br>Seeing as I'm about to upload another Halo related instructable, I will make one for the crowbar case too.
Where did you get the rifle plans? i want to use this method for making the magnum
The only ones I ever found were the Assault rifle plans in a certain bungie.net forum thread. As far as I'm aware, no other orthographic projections exist, so your best bet is either:<br><br>1. Finding the magnum file in Halo PC and opening/exporting it to something like 3DS max, and rendering it as an orthographic projection....... effort much =(.<br><br>2. Taking close up screenshots in game, and editing around the outline, then 'shopping on a backgroung using dimensions from halowikia. (Easiest method)<br><br>Sorry I can't be of much more help =/
thanks i thinks ill search the forums. I'm going to try to make the ma37, but i think ill make the magnum first because i don't have enough polystyrene. thanks for the cool instructable
Thanks =D
Nice work - looks good!

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