MAKE A HIGH VOLTAGE SUPPLY IN 5 MINUTES

 by Biotele
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Step 5: Disclaimer

50mA-and-Above.gif
The circuits in this Instructable use very high voltages and currents.

These currents and voltages are deadly! You can easily hurt yourself, as well. Build this circuit at your own risk.

This type of high frequency high voltage current is used in surgical cauterizers. So if you get shocked you will burn yourself and cut your flesh. There is also a considerable fire hazard from the circuit.

Use the Nikolai Tesla's safety techniques when working with high voltages:

1. Only use one hand (put your other hand on your lap or pocket)
2. Wear insulating shoes
3. Use a dead man stick or insulated pliers when touching or manipulating the circuit.
4. Use a power bar with a thermal fuse rather than sticking the circuit directly in the socket. This will limit the current that will go through your body.
5. When soldering, disconnect the circuit from the power outlet.

Generally, in electricity it is the the current that kills. if the currents are low there is little danger even if the voltages are very high (think of Tesla holding the his Tesla coil).

This circuit has high currents which makes it considerably dangerous.

a 65W CFL can deliver 65mA easily (65W/1000v).

And if you look at the picture below, at greater than 50mA the little guy is dead.
 
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maddog101 says: Nov 4, 2010. 2:02 PM
Hey can somebody help me with how to get the flyback transformer off the circuit board of the CRTmonitor? i don't know if i should break the circuit board or what i should do. can somebody please help me!?
Maxwell Yun in reply to maddog101Feb 15, 2012. 9:13 PM
I just broke the flyback transformer off of the circuit board with cutting pliers. If you can't get it off with any other method, just break it off.
OVERLOADED in reply to maddog101Feb 4, 2012. 4:22 AM
I USED A PROPANE BLOW TORCH IT EASIER LIKE THAT SINCE IT HEATS ALL THE PINS HEAT UP FAST, ITS IMPOSSIBLE TO DO IT WITH AN IRON CAUSE YOU'D HAVE TO GO OVER EACH PIN INDIVIDUALLY , I ALSO USE THE TORCH TO REMOVE MOST OTHER COMPONENTS EASILY, ALSO THE TORCH CAN BE SELF STANDING ON A TABLE WHILE YOU USE BOTH HANDS TO GUIDE THE CIRCUIT PINS ON THE FLAME WHILE PULLING THE TRANS WITH THE OTHER HAND.
-Jess- in reply to maddog101Nov 8, 2010. 1:52 AM
you should just,,, "Unsoder it". if you have a sodering iron, then just get it all hot and stuff, and melt all the soder around whare the flyback transformer is atached. i have no idea how big the flyback transformer is, so you might want some tweezers to grab it while that soder is still melted,,, so that you dont burn your fingers.
Biotele (author) in reply to maddog101Nov 4, 2010. 4:01 PM
Break the board with a pair of pliers. Wear gloves and safety glasses.
croslandjr123 in reply to BioteleDec 17, 2010. 1:21 AM
Breaking the board isn't that good a method. A de-soldering pump usually does the job and saves a heap of hassle when removing the flyback from the board.
maddog101 in reply to BioteleNov 6, 2010. 7:29 PM
Thanks, now that i have the flyback how do i find the primary and secondary leads?
croslandjr123 in reply to maddog101Dec 17, 2010. 1:25 AM
For every flyback it varies, so you can't say that every flyback the same pin out configuration. Get a multimeter and set in the ohms range and test every pin until you find a pair with a reading at or close to 1 ohm. I have found two pairs of "primaries" so you will just need to test each one for the best HV output.
Eric8 in reply to maddog101Nov 17, 2010. 3:41 AM
sorry


Red Wire
_________
/.................... |
| 0 0 0 9 .......|
| 0 [|||||||||||||||||||]
| 0 [|||||||||||||||||||]
| 0 0 1... + + |
\_________|
Eric8 in reply to maddog101Nov 17, 2010. 3:37 AM
Red Wire __________
/ |
| 0 0 0 9 |
| 0 [|||||||||||||||||||]
| 0 [|||||||||||||||||||]
| 0 1 + + |
\__________|


this transformer :
Primary the "+"
Secondary min voltage "1" , max voltage "9"
the second wire the secondary coil is the big red wire that connect to on the screen.

i hope helped you,
can you help me now? please
i bought warm white CFL and this electronic plate output is 70volt, this is ok?
i connected this to the pins and "nothing" happend i connected right the pins are right, after it i smashed my transformer with hammer and saw i connected pins right! i dont know why it dont work, pliz help

OVERLOADED says: Feb 3, 2012. 10:44 PM
ARE YOU SURE 50mA IS CORRECT? THIS IS .05A IS THIS ENOUGH TO KILL??? WHAT ABOUT ADAPTERS? THEY DELIEVER SAY 12V AT 500mA BUT I DONT THINK IF I TOUCH - AND + OF FEMALE FROM ADAPTER YOU WOULD DIE?
handyman29 says: Aug 23, 2010. 8:24 AM
Is it 50mA or 50MA, because I don't think 0.05A is enough to kill someone. I would think 5A is enough to cause damage. I've worked with wires connected to 500mA sources and I am still here.
DeusXMachina in reply to handyman29Aug 23, 2010. 11:14 AM
It's 50mA, across the *heart*. Remember Ohm's law, I = V/R. A 12v car battery is capable of producing several amps peak current. However, the resistance from one hand to the other is around a few thousand ohms. So, it is possible to grab both terminals of a car battery, contrary to what you see in movies. You need enough volts to push pass the resistance, AND just enough current to move through the heart, to risk electrocution. Wall voltage is enough to do it, and definitely some parts of this circuit are able to.
ApprenticeWizard in reply to DeusXMachinaSep 8, 2010. 1:37 PM
Something else to note: the 20mA range can be more dangerous than the 50mA range. 20mA will disrupt the heart's operation (even with current removed), leading to a potentially painful death. 50mA+ clamps the heart; remove the current and the heard will resume pumping.

Again, this is lethal Primarily if the current path crosses the heart. Those who have worked with (and even taken) more current and still post here did not have a current path across the chest.

A simple and effective precaution when working around high voltages is to always keep one hand in your pocket: worrisome situations occur when one hand is grounded and the other is touching a hot lead.
tristantech in reply to DeusXMachinaAug 24, 2010. 4:21 PM
yes, you are absolutely right. Thanks for clearing this up.
skrubol in reply to handyman29Aug 23, 2010. 9:36 AM
5-10mA is enough to kill, but it's not likely to. I've been hit by 9kV, 30mA, as well as shocked myself multiple times with 120V house current (on a 10+A fuse,) and I'm still here. That doesn't mean either of those situations can't kill you.
Jimmy Proton in reply to skrubolAug 24, 2010. 4:37 PM
wow, what does 9kV feel like? i got shocked by a camera cuz i touched the switch oart and it burnt a little hole in my finger but thats only a few hundred volts
HVahead in reply to Jimmy ProtonDec 4, 2011. 6:40 PM
9000 not to bad try about 25000 at 35 mA and its quite painfull. the only thing that saved me is i had one hand in the air. but that much can make your arm tingle for about 10 minutes...and make you jump about 3 inches...lol.
grim3271 in reply to HVaheadDec 28, 2012. 3:49 AM
25,000 at 35 ma make you jump 3 inches.. when i got shocked of the mains i jumped so high that i reached the sun
Jimmy Proton in reply to HVaheadDec 8, 2011. 4:15 PM
lol well dont be stupid like i did and play with live MOTs with your bare hands and feet, i got the shock of my life from that thing but i only touched it with one hand so it wasnt lethal.. luckily
Darwin333 in reply to Jimmy ProtonDec 15, 2010. 4:30 PM
An electrician buddy of mine told me something that I will always remember:

Volts jolt
Mills kill (as in milliamps)

Static electricity (the kind you shock your friends with after wearing socks on carpet) is thousands of volts but almost no current (amps) and does no harm. Add a single amp to that same charge and you are dead.

Volts jolt but mills kill.
Jimmy Proton in reply to Darwin333Dec 15, 2010. 6:06 PM
indeed that is true *i now know what it feels like to be shocked by 9000 volts (from an NST)
skrubol in reply to Jimmy ProtonAug 24, 2010. 5:43 PM
It was probably only 4.5kV because it was to the center tap, but it didn't really hurt. Just made me really tired. Your hit probably had a lot more current than 30mA. A cap can deliver amps
Jimmy Proton in reply to skrubolAug 24, 2010. 6:11 PM
ah, ok
BOOM5601 in reply to Jimmy ProtonSep 4, 2010. 3:09 AM
But arent the caps in cameras only something like 30mA?
handyman29 in reply to BOOM5601Sep 4, 2010. 2:32 PM
NOOOOO! caps in camera's are usually 6000uf or more depending on how big the camera is or the flash type. That is probably close to half an amp because of the high current capacitance. The voltage is only 1.5v but the current is very high.
Jimmy Proton in reply to handyman29Sep 5, 2010. 11:47 AM
what are you talking about, camera caps are 330v 120uf.
handyman29 in reply to Jimmy ProtonSep 5, 2010. 9:25 PM
What am I talking about? What are you talking about? A capacitor is measured in farads, not volts. One farad is one coulomb which is 6.25x10^18 electrons. Amperage is the measure of how many coulombs of current cycle in one second, so since capacitors accept certain amounts of coulombs, that must mean that capacitors store current, not voltage. How or why would camera designers integrate a cap rated for 330 volts, when only a 1.5 - 3v battery is used, but only store 120uf of current. The greater the farad, the bigger the flash. Maybe your camera has that, no way for me to know.
BOOM5601 in reply to handyman29Sep 6, 2010. 11:48 AM
They change the voltage to 330v specifically for the cap and flash, but then how fast do the caps discharge when touching human flesh, that is the question.
handyman29 in reply to BOOM5601Sep 6, 2010. 1:57 PM
In a standard or disposable camera, they do not change the voltage, they only change the current within the capacitor. I'd get into a science lesson, but I want to go play some Red Dead Redemption right now.
BOOM5601 in reply to handyman29Sep 7, 2010. 6:50 AM
Somebody please tell this guy that it IS 330v in a disposable camera.
Jimmy Proton in reply to handyman29Sep 6, 2010. 7:38 AM
ALL capacitors have a rating for voltage and farads
handyman29 in reply to Jimmy ProtonSep 6, 2010. 2:02 PM
Yes your right there, but making a cap rated for 330 Volts will just make it physically larger, nothing else. They are almost always set to 10 or 16 Volts to keep physical dimensions smaller. The farad rating is what affects it's performance, the greater the farad, the longer it takes to charge, but makes a bigger bang.
skrubol in reply to handyman29Sep 7, 2010. 5:54 AM
I think your math for charge is off. 1 Farad is not 1 coulomb, it's 1 coulomb/volt. The amount of charge in a cap is the capacitance * voltage. Caps store voltage. If you charge a cap to 10v, wait a bit, and measure it's voltage, it'll still be roughly 10v. Inductors store current.
Caps are sized according to both their voltage and capacitance, roughly at k*c*v^2 (k being a constant for a given type of cap.) For the same capacitance, a 330v cap would be roughly 48,000 times larger than a 1.5v cap (ignoring the fact that you can only make a cap so small.)
Flashes use DC-DC converters, usually flyback or something similar to convert the low 1.5-7.6v supplied by the batteries into the hundreds of volts necessary to make a strobe work.
maxpush99 in reply to skrubolMar 11, 2011. 1:53 AM
thats exacky right
caps store voltage
size depend on storage capabilty which is rated in farads
current does not matter
capera caps are tiny , rated in hundreds of volts and a few microfarads
Jimmy Proton in reply to handyman29Sep 6, 2010. 5:07 PM
no the size is mostly determined around the farads, i have a 10000uf cap at 72v and its huge, i also have a 47uf cap with 50v and its tiny.
skrubol in reply to handyman29Sep 5, 2010. 10:13 AM
Flash caps are usually hundreds of volts, not 1.5. Caps don't usually have a rated current. The current is just the the voltage/(ESR+circuit resistance).
Mansheep22 says: Jul 9, 2010. 10:06 PM
I've found that new CFL's are incorporating more advanced circuit-detecting abilities, and are harder to fool into thinking a bulb is attached. Also, I am unable to get nearly the same voltage other people are getting (probably just under 1,000v DC at 1.7mA), and am going to try to wire two or more flyback transformers in line, to keep amping up the voltage. Will I die in a fiery explosion if I attempt this? Thanks
Nyxius in reply to Mansheep22Jul 21, 2010. 4:33 PM
you won't die, but you might ruin your fly-backs. the coils in a fly-back are insulated from each other with a dielectric of some kind. as the voltage increases the dielectric become less able to insulate each coil from the next one. If the voltage increases high enough it will lead to dielectric breakdown. this is where the electricity jumps from coil to coil inside the fly-back creating shorts that permanently ruin the coil. No more coil + lots of bad smelling smoke = sad face.
Biotele (author) in reply to Mansheep22Jul 10, 2010. 10:04 AM
can you post a picture of the circuit?
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