Introduction: MAX CUT 2 Circular Saw Crosscut & Miter Jig
I have this new Jig I recently built and I thought it was a unique jig to have in the shop. I kinda wish I had this years ago when I first started experimenting with wood. I decide to give this jig a name I didn't put much thought into it at all. The first thing that came in my head was Max Cut. I named it MAX CUT 2 because I recently build one which could have used some improvement. In this Instructables I want to share the MAX CUT 2. If your a visual person like my self I have a video as well that goes into greater details. Im working on a limited tools series for the viewers on youtube to get them started. This jig is apart of the series.
Measurements for this Jig
Base 25in D x 32in L Pine Plywood
Front support 32 in 2x2 Length Select Pine
Back Support 8 in Length 2x2 Select Pine
Large Saw Base 4.5in X 25in
Small Saw Base 1 in x 25in (2)
Fence 1 in x 25in Miter attachment this well vary
Links to items I used
- Adhesive Measureing Tape http://amzn.to/2awzgAS
- Screw Cap Covers http://amzn.to/2aLSbIq
- T-nuts - http://amzn.to/2aLSbIq
- E-Z lock threaded insert http://amzn.to/2aLSbIq
- Clamps http://amzn.to/1QdspQv
- Speed Square http://amzn.to/1QdspQv
- Framing Square http://amzn.to/1QdspQv
- Circular Saw http://amzn.to/1QdspQv
- Drill - http://amzn.to/1QdspQv
- Counter sink bit http://amzn.to/1QdspQv
- Hack saw http://amzn.to/1QdspQv
- Hand saw http://amzn.to/1QdspQv
Step 1: Cutting the Jig Base
The base of your jig can be at any size for you feel is necessary for your space.
I made my jig 25 inches by 32 inches. 32 inches will be the width of the base.
Since this apart of my limited tool series I also made a guide to help viewers cut a straight line with a circular saw See video Link
Here is another Circular saw guide for more advance viewers.See Video Link
Step 2: Attaching the Front Support
The front support is measured at 32 inches in length. I use a 2 by 2 for this. If you want the max depth of your saw cut then consider using something larger that a 2 by 2. For example a 2 x 4 and ripping it to meet your needs.
I used a speed square as a guide to make the cut on the 2 by 2. Clamping the speed square is recommended this way you can focus on making a straight cut.
Now clamp the 32 inch support along the the edge of the base. Then flip the base upside done (stilled clamped).
Add screws along the edge. Pre drill and use a counter sink bit to flush mount the screws.
Step 3: Cut the Base for the Saw
This may varies on different brand of saws. For the large side of the base measure from the edge of the plate to the blade guide. Don't measure all the way to the blade. Keep in mind you want to see through the track where the blade will touch the blade.
Now using the saw guide make your first cut (for my saw I made this cut 4.75 in ). Then take the speed square to cut this piece of wood to 25 inches in length.
Make a second cut that will also be the support for the base this will be for the opposite side of the blade. (for my saw this was 1 in). This also needs to be cut to 25 inch in length.
To make the fence I need to cut one more piece of wood also measuring at 1 in. For the fence we will need (2) cut to 25 inch in length one for each side of the saw base.
Step 4: Attaching the Fence to the Base
Now place the large base on a flat surface and clamp the fence to the base.
Add screws along the outside as shown in the picture. Then do the same for the small side of the base.
Step 5: Cutting the Back Support
Raise the saw to this max height then set the saw in the track.
Square up as shown in the picture. Then measure the back, middle, and the front of the track. Your should have the same measurement at all three points.
Take this measurement and cut the 2 by 2 for the back support.
Step 6: Attach the Track Guide
Set the back support on the rear of the base. Then place the large side of the track on the two support. I placed the track so that the saw blade sits approx 18 in from the end (referring to the side of where the stop block sit)
Take a 2 by 2 and clamp it down. Then take a framing square and square up the 2 by 2 to the front support. There should be no gaps in between the framing square and either 2 by 2.
Pull the large saw base to the 2 by 2 and clamp it down. One final time check the squaring on the track to the front support. If everything looks good clamp it down and screw it in place. Don't forget to flush the screws head so they clear the base plate of the saw.
Step 7: Attach the Back Support
Attach the back support. As shown in the photos.
Step 8: Finishing Up the Saw Track
Attach the other side to the saw track. Clamp it down first . The saw should move freely without friction but there should be no play within the track.
Screw the track in place.
Now drop the saw blade just enough to score the plywood base and then make your first cut.
Step 9: Adding the Miter Attachment
First thing first the edge of reference my be straight for this to work.
Now take the speed square and clamp it down like I have in the photo. A small square will work as well.
Insert the 2 by 2 and clamp it in place.The 2 by 2 should be butted up on the framing square.
Take the saw and cut the attachment.
To hold the attachment in place I used 1/4'' bolts and t nuts.
Drill the holes for the bolts using a 1/4'' bit so there will be not play in the hole.
Flip the jig over and install the t-nuts.
I end up cutting two of the bolts so they do not exit out the back of jig. Now install the Screws and and your jig is done.
Step 10: Quick Test
To check the accuracy cut a piece of wood and check your work with a framing square. It should be squared with out any gaps.
Step 11: Making the Stop Block
The stop block is made from 1 by 2 pine.
I have many picture for this stop block. Its pretty self explanatory.
Thanks for checking out this instructables and good luck with your jig. Feel free to ask any question.
Runner Up in the
Wood Contest 2016
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Just to say best jig I has seen and so well explained on how to make it too, hope to try making one next few days. Thanks for sharing it with every one.