This idea came to me when I broke a chain on my hard-tail GT MTB. I have always wanted to ride a SS and now was my chance. This Monster chain conversion (motorcycle chain) is stronger and heavier than conventional bike chain so it can put up with more abuse and last longer.

Step 1: Parts & Supplies!!

Supplies
•40, 41, or 50 SAE chain size
• Bike (preferably with sliding dropouts)
•PBI Aluminum sprocket
•3.5" 6061 solid aluminum or
•Hob sprocket cutter
•20 T rear steel sprocket as a pattern

Tools
•Bike tools
•Metal Lathe
•Metal files
•General shop tools and knowhow

Sprocket info
http://shop.pbisprockets.com/product.sc?productId=503&categoryId=56

Tree Fort Bikes has a rear steel sprocket
http://www.treefortbikes.com/#navbar=pro___333222353650___91

Chain info
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Roller-Chain-2YDW6

♦You will need a large front sprocket and a small rear sprocket for this conversion. Ideally you want aluminum because it is stronger per weight than steel which means that is is light!! PBI sprockets has blank aluminum motorcycle sprockets that we can use for this project. I suggest using a 32 T front and a 20 T rear; this gives a 1:1.6 gear ratio which is perfect for mountain biking.
♦Since PBI doesn't carry 20 T sprockets and we especially need one that is internally-splined, we must machine our own.

Step 2: Machining the Sprocket!

*For this step you must know how to run and operate a metal lathe.*

Lets get started!!
•You will need to cut a "disk" form the aluminum solid stock. (metal band saw - horizontal) This will be your aluminum blank.
1. •Next, using marking fluid or a Sharpie to color the aluminum so that you can SCRIBE the outline of the steel sprocket onto the aluminum blank. (I use Marks a Lot)
2. •After you have your scribed aluminum disk mount it in the chuck with outside jaws.
3. - Drill and Bore the inside of the sprocket to the minor diamiter of the free wheel bike wheel.

Not Pictured
***Use a Drill bit closest to the size of the roller to drill the valley of each tooth in order for the chain to move freely. ***

Step 3: Final Finishing!

•After machining file the sprocket until it looks like the one you ordered from PBI!!

•Also trace and file the splines on the inside bore of the sprocket.

•Run the chain over the sprocket every once and a while until the chain fits well.

***You will spend lots of time filing unless you can machine the teeth with a hob mill!***

Step 4: Installation!

•Now that you have machined and hand filed your sprocket you must buy or make spacers to keep the sprocket in-place on the free hub. (unless you use a free hub) The spacers don't have to be structural; they must just keep the sprocket from moving while the but holds is all in place.

• In fact I just use PVC as the spacers.

Step 5: Further Development!

As always when you make something yourself, you must use creativity and common sense. This project can not be accomplished (very easily) without machine shop tools - lathe, drill press, milling machine.

Fe bikes has some good info on bike building and more MONSTER chain ideas.
http://febikes.com/2012/11/02/the-monster-chain/

Note: I got lucky with the chain tension with vertical dropouts!!**

P.S. Please Vote for - for the bike contest!! (if you are so incline!)