Introduction: CNC MOXYP Project, a Step by Step Guide With Files, Approximately $300 Dollars

Hi everyone, I been working in this project for a while and I believe is ready for everyone.

This project is meant to be a CNC, however bofore I add it a 100 dollar router, I want it to know if it could make exact drawing with a pen. This way I didn't have to brake anything and if a mistake happen, no one will get hurt.

If you want work in the project, just go to my website and look for the files in order to download everything:

Now, because this is free, I put a donation icon if you which to help me to keep this project going and I will deeply appreciate your cooperation.

Now lets start.

3D Model:

Step 1: CNC Router

Here is the Router for the CNC

Step 2: Download All the Files

Now, because everyone use different programs, I try to put different files in order to make it the best as possible for everyone.

The material I am using is 1/4" in MDF and I use a laser cutter in order to obtain all the cuts. However I put a 8.5 in by 11 in paper so you can cut it by hand if you desire.

Step 3: Getting Parts

The hardest part of the project will be getting all the part together.

Here is the Excel Sheet that will help you know how much you will spend and where can you find the materials. If you which to find the parts in another part, just make sure is the same hardware and if you click the amazon links it will help me to continue this, the links wont charge you more. I'm just getting a percentage by amazon by guiding you there.

Check all the parts and decide which ones to buy on amazon, but they are mainly so you can look at the part and know which exact part you need for the project.

Here are the parts if you don't want to open the excel file:

Parts Quantity:

4pcs 5mm to 8mm Shaft -1-

Nema 17 Stepper Motor - 3-

20m RGB Cable -1

8mm lead 4 start lead screw 1

8mm Block Bearing 3

inner hole 8mm pulley 1

16 teeth 3mm pulley 1

24v 15a power supply 1

Arduino uno r3 1

Syntethos GRBL 1

10 Meters Timing Belt 1

12 pcs Linear Bearings 1

8mm x 300mm Linear motion Rod

5 pcs 16 teeth bore 5mm 1

Makita Compact Router 1

5/16 in. x 2.5 in crown bolt 16

5/16 in. Zinc-Plated Cut Washer 192

5/8 in x 5/8 in x 96 in. metal U-Channel 1

3/4 Copper Tubes 10 feet 3

5/16 in. x 72 in. Plain Round Rod 1

U-Pulley 4

Step 4: After Cutting All the 51 Parts

The pictures are straight forward, and basically it follow the PDF I made in my website which you can download the whole thing and use it as a booklet.

#2. In this part we see some screws that are not in the Excel sheet, the reason for that is there is different types of screw that will work with the project. However the ones I'm using are 1/8 and 3/32 in. The only ones that need to be exact are the 5/16 in screws that are in the excel sheet.

#12. The screws that are been use in this part are smaller enough to fit through the 3 mm 16 teeth pulley. Make sure to use 3/32 in screw with 1-1/2" in. long.

#13. Put two in screw nuts before you put the pulley and then add another , this way you can move the nuts and align the pulley later. When they are align, add some crazy glue on the screw nut, but be careful of not putting anything in the pulley.

#15. Here you are going to use the 5 mm to 8 mm shaft, the 5 mm opening will go to the motor

#16. Maker sure you tight the two screws really hard, just in the 5 mm side.

#18. Screw all the peaces together by using 1/8 in screws. there is special screws for stepper motors. However I did not find any so I open the motor wholes a little bet for the 1/8 in screw.

#19. Now join the two peaces together by aligning them and hold them with four screw nuts and a washer for safety.

Step 5:

#21. Cut as necessary for the 8 mm rod but allow an inch more for the pulley

#25. Add a bearing through the whole and the 8 mm rod.

#26. Add the 8 mm pulley. Please do 1-5, 11-14, 18-20, and 23-24

#28. Now, because the machine needs to pass a 8 mm rod through 3/4 copper tube. You need to install the tube at this time, make two holes that are the same size as the openings in the wood. After that make one side bigger so you can put the screw inside and hold it to the wood.

#30. do the same thing to the other side

#31. now add the 8 mm rod from the other side

Step 6:

#32. As you add the rod inside the through the 8 mm block bearing, the copper tube and the other 8 mm block bearing. Before it goes all the way, add the 8 mm pulley through the 8 mm rod and then lock it with the 8 mm shaft from the motor.

#37. Use the same system as #5 step, however just add 6 washer to each wheel at the side that touches the wood. make the two sides before the next step.

#39. Now this part will need some glue just to make it sturdy, is your decision how much glue you want. but make sure is align correctly.

#43. All this peaces need to be glue together and if you want them to be straight, you can use the router or the linear bearings to keep it straight.

#45. Cut the 8 mm rod as necessary.

Step 7:

#46. Keep this peace to the bottom and glue the rest on top.

#51. make a whole in a 1/2 in copper for the screw to go inside and is able to hold the pen.

#52. Add the step #50 peace inside the hole.

#55. Add the last two peaces together and glue it together.

#58. Add the 8 mm block bearing.

#60. Add the screw for Z-axis.

Step 8:

#62. Add the stepper motor on top with a 5 mm to 8 mm shaft and the lead screw, and pass it trough the top whole and tight it with the 8 mm block bearing at the bottom.

#64. Because precision is always in the computer, in real life is hard to obtain right dimension. Therefore you need to add a few washers on each whole in order to make space between the carriage and tubes. I only need four washers. Your build will vary.

#67. Pass the timing belt inside the opening with the teeth up.

#68. After you pass it through make a loop for the hang. Use a zip-tie in order to keep it together.

#76. Give some length before you cut it. When you do pass it around the 8 mm rod and hold it with your hand, remove it and tight it with a zip-tie.

#77. This part is for the sides and just follow the path and do the same as step #76

Step 9: Software

GRGRBL installation in arduino.

Download this files:

1. Download the latest file,

2. Download and open file,

3. Now with Xloader ope, click the three dots “...” and look for the GRBL file you downloaded first. 4. Connect Arduino to computer. Look for Device “Uno(Atmega328)” and in the COM port there should be only one option, if not remove any other usb storage device from your computer. 5. Click “Upload” and wait for the upload, after that you are done with the installation. 6. Congratulation, now you have all is need it to make a drawing. Which is going to be the next step.

Step 10: Wiring

This is the part that every cable comes together.

Just follow the lines and you will be in no trouble.

If the drawing is not high definition enough for reading download:

and download the MOXYP Project.pdf page 11

Step 11:

Now, you can use any other software in order to create an SVG file like Inks cape, Auto cad or Illustrator. In this case i'm using Rhinoceros

Step 12:

First, make sure you grab the outline of you model to the top-left corner and put it in the as the center. This will help for the next step.

Step 13:

Then make sure the box is the size of the material that you want to use, which help to center the plotter.

Step 14:

After you know the dimension of the file, then change it to mm by

changing the units. Type “units”.

Step 15:

Then check for mm in the Model Units tab, then click OK.

Step 16:

Click “yes”.

Step 17:

Now that the file is in mm, we can export the file to SVG. Select the

lines that you want to print. Go to File-Export Selected.

Step 18:

A Export window will open and Chose to save as “Scalable Vector Graphics.(SVG). If you don't find it then download the file (5) and install.

Step 19:

Another window will open and just click “save”.

Step 20:

Now go to and go to Files-Open SVG File.

Step 21:

Find the file location where you save the File and open it.

Step 22:

The file will appear in page, if the file looks smaller than it should,

then make sure you change the units to mm in Rhino.

Step 23:

Highlight everything except the border and go to CAM-follow path


Step 24:

The local Diameter all depend how thick is the marker or pen you are

using. In my case the diameter is just 0.065. The Target Depth should be -0.1 the safety height is 0.3, it may vary in the surface you are using. Step down should be the same as the Target Depth with out the minus sign, 0.1 in this case.

Now the faster it goes the less accurate will be, this means you will have to decide how fast you want it to go. You can start with the preset setting and go up as you like. Note: just remember to be consistent with the federate and plunge rate, if you add one to one of them, do the same for the other one.

Step 25:

Now go to CAM-calculate selected and let it run. The bigger the file

the longer will take.

Step 26:

If you see green arrows, it means it work. Now just go to CAM-export

Step 27:

Then Click Follow path and then Export G-code.

Step 28:

Export the file to any destination you want.

Step 29: PLotter Connection.

Download Java and install.

Step 30:

Step 31:

Find the .NC file and drag it to chilipepper.

Step 32:

Download the file from the link:

Click the “serial-port-json-server”, this will help you connect the arduino to the computer web server.

Step 33:

Once is open, you will see the arduino port and this will mean is


Step 34:

Now, refresh the website and you should see your arduino at the

righ-bottom of the website. Make sure the grbl and 115,200 is selected and then click the box. It will automatically connect and you should jog around just to see if the motors are working. Note: if the motors do not move in the right direction then the easiest way to change that is by flipping the cables pattern in the Grbl Shield. Example BGRB to BRGB (Color base)

Step 35:

Now every grbl has a setting which allows you to change the way you

plotter will work. This is the best setting I have for my own plotter, all this will help you to get a start with the settings. In order to change something you basically write “$” and the # you are trying to change. For example if you want to change something you write “$22=#” and click enter.

Step 36:

The only setting that will vary in your own plotter is the (xyz,step/mm) and the (xyz max travel,mm). The max travel is just how far can the plotter go and that will be your choice. Now the one you are going to change a few times just to make it as precise as possible is the step/mm.

This is going affect the dimensions of the plotter, basically it will allow you to make a mm be a mm in your drawing.

For this step you need to connect the plotter to the computer and follow all the steps as it was shown in the connection part. 1. First in the serial port command write “$$” to see all the settings. 2. The ones we are going to change are going to be: $100, $101 and $102.

3. Now jog the X-axis 10mm first and see if there is enough room for movement, after you check it can go 10mm.

4. After you know how far it went, check if can go 100mm, the larger the distance the more accurate the system will be. 5. Check where the pen start and where it end after the 100mm path. If the path is not exactly 100mm we will make some changes. 6. Online there a complex way to know how many steps are needed in order to make the plotter archive the 100mm, but the easier way and fairly accurate is by using some simple math. 7. Now you are going to grab the number you have in the setting. For example, in my setting I have 41.1, with this setting is giving me 101mm. this is kind of accurate but we want precise drawings. Then you divide the 41.1 to 101 and multiply it by X/100 which is the goal of 100mm. I put an equation that you can follow in order to help you, the numbers on the left are the same as the ones in the middle. When you get the answer, in mine was 40.693, just add it to the setting. Type in the Serial Port Command “$100=40.693” and click enter. Do the same thing with Y-axis and Z-axis, just use a ruler for the Z-axis in order to know how far it went and make sure you don't get confuse mm with cm.

Step 37: A Few Pictures From My Work

This pictures are where taken in the middle of the tutorial. Which means there is some improvements in the files that are online. But they are minimum changes.

Now, if something is confusing or you need more details in one section. Feel free to leave a message and I will try to answer as soon as possible.


TPYNL made it! (author)2017-07-03

Very nice tutorial and a lot of work.

JaimeF11 made it! (author)JaimeF112017-07-03

thanks, I appreciate it

DIY Hacks and How Tos made it! (author)2017-07-01

Awesome tutorial. The level of detail is very impressive.

JaimeF11 made it! (author)JaimeF112017-07-01

Thank you, I may do some grammar check. It took me longer than I thought to upload but I'm glad I can go back and change stuff.

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