This is my Instructable showing how to carry out the "Drivers Window Auto-Up Mod" from the MR2 Owners Club. It took me about 20mins to carry out this mod, but it was my first time and I was taking pictures. A little soldering skill is required and no other skills (other than a bit of confidence) is needed.
First thing you need to do is gather your parts. You will need the following:
> A Toyota MR2 MK1 with electric windows and permission from the owner
> 3x 1N4002S rectifier diodes ( Maplin sell these for 12p each)
Next, locate the necessary tools:
> Philips screwdriver
> Small flat head screwdriver (or trim removal tool)
> A very sharp utility knife (eg Stanley or craft knife)
> Soldering iron and solder (solder remover also recommended)
> A little white spirit
> 10mm socket (optional)
Step 1: Strip the Door
Ok, get that door open and remove the screws marked "Door Screw 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5".
The handle casing should slide out easily if you pull the handle about half-way.
Now, with a small flat head screwdriver (or trim removal tool) slide it about 10mm (or until you hit resistance) under the right side of the window control plate. Lift gently and the "Window Control Retaining Clip" should release. Once raised, as seen in the picture, the plate will slide to the right and be removed. Disconnect the wiring harness and stow the control panel in a safe place for now.
Now, I managed to get to the relay without completly removing the door panel. This is entirely at your own discretion. By giving the bottom of the door panel a little tug where you meet resistance you will pop out the retaining clips, careful not to damage any! The relay itself is held in by two screw-bolts, marked "Relay Bolt 1" and "Relay Bolt 2". I found it easier to use the 10mm socket with the door panel on, it's up to you though. Disconnect the "Relay Wiring Harness" and lift the relay out of it's recess.
Re-installation is the exact reverse of these de-installation steps.
I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think there were any changes to the relay part number throughout the MK1 series. However, if I'm wrong please leave your comments or send me a message.
Take the relay to your soldering area and remove the "Relay Box Plate" by squeezing together "Relay Box Retaining Clip 1" and "Relay Box Retaining Clip 2".
Now remove the "Relay Mounting Bracket" by sliding a small flat head screwdriver under the "Mounting Clip".
Now slide the "Relay Board" out of the "Relay Box" and place the box to one side.
The modification requires a "Jumper Wire" to be removed and two "Spare Holes" to be opened - this will be the final location of the diodes.
Picture 3 & 4:
Desolder the jumper wire and remove the excess solder from the four spare hole locations. Once this has been done, it might be an idea to clean up the area with some white spirit - the relay board will have 20ish years of atmosphere on it... Anyone who has some soldering experience will tell you a spitting wick is no fun at all =]
Now, in the six new holes you created in the last step, solder the diodes into place. WARNING: You must make sure the polarity is correct (ie the grey band pointing away from the wiring connector). Compare yours against my photo if you are unsure.
Now, before proceeding I highly recommend you temporarily refit the relay and window controls in the door. This way, you can test that the relay is working and you haven't got any short circuits, faulty diodes, etc. Once you are satisfied (and no fuses blew) refit the relay fully but take the window controls back to your work area.
The drivers window control switch we are modifying.
Flip the window controls over so you are looking at the wiring harness connector. Remove the
"Window Control Fascia Screw 1" and "Window Control Fascia Screw 2" and move the fascia to one side.
I took this opportunity to give the facia and the switches a good clean too.
** I shouldn't need to say this, but be careful when using a utility knife and always follow the manufacturers safety guidelines **
If you look at the drivers window switch, you will see a "Triangular Block" that stops the switch rocking forwards. This offending piece needs to be removed.
With you utility knife (and a steady hand), carefully remove all of the block. If you follow the mounding line, you should end up with a clean cut and the switch can now fully rock forwards.
Connect the controls back up and give it a test. If it works, give yourself a pat on the back and fit the controls back into place. Remember to tap the door panel clips back in and re-fit all the screws.
Step 7: Enjoy!
Have fun with your modified control! Please leave any feedback and constructive criticism.
If you want to do this mod but lack the skill / confidence, I'd be happy to do the work if you foot the shipping costs and if you live locally to Stoke-on-Trent (UK) I'd be more than willing to pop over (brew must be supplied =] )