What you will need:

-Edwards Signaling WG4RF-HVMC Outdoor horn/strobe,red w/Fire
from AutomationSource.com {total cost with shipping is 58$}

-2 photo flash capacitors out of a old camera that equal a single 600uF, 330VDC Custom Photo flash Capacitor. {Dr. Beck used a Vivitar model 1900 flash unit to power his magnetic pulsar. You can go to a good camera store and buy a used one or try to find a unit as close to the same power as the Vivitar}

-A soldering iron, Solder sucker, flux and very thin solder- electrical tape , shrink wrap or wire nuts, wire cutters, hot -glue gun and sticks, and zip ties, and a dremmel, drill

-2 4 ft lengths of extension cord

-a 18 to 24 volT power supply to power the fire alarm

-A wooden spatula

*Bob Beck made it perfectly clear that the electrical current in the blood that disables microbes (i.e. eliminates them) is between 50 to 100 micro amps (i.e. millionths of an amp).

{A EMP from Sota measures: The outputs as measured on a Tektronics TDS 210 Digital Real-Time Oscilloscope, and Wavetek AD105 Clamp-On RMS Ammeter are: Energy Storage Capacitor: 600uF, 450 Volts DC, Typical Energy Storage: 36.75 Joules (Watt*Seconds), Maximum Energy Storage: 42.18 Joules (Watt*Seconds), Typical Peak Charge Voltage: 350 Volts DC, Maximum Peak Charge Voltage: 375 Volts DC, Minimum Peak Current Discharge into Coil: 150 Amps RMS, Pulse Rise Time: <1.8 uS (microseconds), Pulse Duration: ~2.5mS (milliseconds), Main Coil Inductance: ~2.5mH (millihenries), Flux Density: 40,500 Ampere*Turns, Peak Magnetic Field Output: ~6,000 Gauss (~6 kilo Gauss), Minimum number of Pulse Discharges 30 Million (30,000,000)

Step 1: 1. Remove the Plastic Casing of the Firealarm by Removing the Screws From the Back

-Use a phillips screw driver to remove all the screws from the back of the fire alarm

{there may be a little glue around the edges if so just pry open- it wont hurt the fire alarm)

Step 2: Remove the Speaker

2. Cut the wires from the round speaker that are going to the board from the speaker next to the board {the speaker is not used}- leave enough wire going to the board that you can hot glue the ends to avoid any contact with anything

Step 3: Remove the Screws Holding the Greenboard Down

Use a phillips screw driver to remove the screws holding the green board down to the back of the fire alarm plastic casing

Step 4: Removing the Original Capacitors

There are 2 capacitors next to the strobe light, remove them with a soldering gun and solder sucker if needed to get all the solder off the board

Step 5: Replace With Photo Flash Capacitors

using your solder iron, solder the two photo flash the capacitors where you removed the original 2, make sure that the - and + ends are soldered into the right spot on the board.

Step 6: In-series Wiring to Leads to Coil

Using a small pair of wire cutters cut the wire in the middle of the wire of the positive side of the strobe light if the wire that connects the light to the board

connect 2 leads to the wire going to the light and the wire still connected to the board long enough to go out of the fire alarm box where you took the speaker out of. , then connect the 2 4 ft leads onto the two leads coming off the light and board and bring out threw the box where the speaker was located

solder the leads and make sure that they are connected securely so they will not short out and make sure that the connections are covered with shrink wrap or electrical tape to avoid and contact with the board.

Step 7: Power Supply

connect the power supply to the right screws on the right side of the board labeled horn-strobe

Step 8: The Coil

You can purchase a pre-wound coil from http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/sidewinder-16-awg/sidwinder-2.5-mh-air-core-inductor-16awg
Winding your own coil with instructions off bob beck specs:

First wind the applicator coil. Use a reel off of a vhs tape Be SURE alternative spools (if used) are non–conductive (plastic) or system will not work. Avoid shorter length VHS tape reels which may have center hubs largr than 1” dia. and won’t hold sufficient wire. Drill ¼” holes through hub and through center of flange(s). Make two 4” discs from ¼” thick plastic, metal, plywood or stiff fiberboard, drill ¼” center holes and another ¼” hole off–center so coil’s inside lead wire can be pulled through. These “stiffeners” must sandwich reel’s flanges tightly so they won’t warp or split as wire pressure builds up while winding progresses. A 2” (or longer) ¼-20 machine nut and bolt with washers through centers will clamp flange stiffeners and reel and also provide a shaft to hold in a variable speed drill motor or similar winding device if used. Remove bolt and stiffeners when finished. Specifications: Completely fill tape spool with #14 or #16 enameled copper magnet wire (130 to 160 turns) wound into the 1” dia. hub and 3½” OD spool with a gap width for wire of 5/8”. Scrape enamel insulation ½” from ends and tin. Pull inside end of magnet wire through hub and stiffener and to outside. About 1½” should fill spool. Remove bolt, stiffeners and finished coil. Now solder ends of 4 ft. of heavy two–wire extension cord to each side of coil. A #14 finished coil weighs ~1 lb. 3 oz., has ~0.935 millihenry inductance, 0.34 ohms resistance, and takes ~20 minutes to hand wind or ~3 minutes with drill motor. An excellent alternative is an AMS brand air–core crossover inductor for home audio, MCM Electronics, Centerville, OH 45459, (800) 543-4330 catalog #50-940, 16 gauge, 0.58 ohms, 2.5mH, 2 7/8” dia. $10.65. Strobe modification consists simply of wiring the finished applicator coil with 4 ft. leads in series between either flash tube electrode. Be extremely cautious when working with case open because a strobe’s capacitor can hold a residual high–voltage charge for a long time even when “off.” Before modifying and to avoid shock, short out the capacitor by placing clip leads directly across the flash tube. Remember to remove this shunt later.

Polarity of the Coil

-Note on Polarity: Each side of the coil, the (-) or geographic North pole side and the (+) or geographic South pole side will create microcurrents in tissue. There is confusion in identifying the North and South side of a magnet so it is best to label either (-) or (+). To avoid labeling confusion and accurately determine the (-) side, measurement with a magnetometer is necessary. For prolonged use, the (-) side may be best as it is known to have a balancing effect while the (+) side is known to have a stimulating effect. Expert opinion does not consider polarity to be important with a Pulsed Magnetic Field. The purpose with a Pulsed Magnetic Field is to create microcurrents in tissueas the “secondary” in which current is induced when cut by coil’s time–varying magnetic lines of flux.

Through the principle of induction, this magnetic field creates tiny electrical micro-currents in living organic materials that contain an electrolyte such assaline. In most cases, the negative North polarity is suggested as it is a constricting or confining energy, whereas the positive polarity tends to stimulate activity and growth.

Step 9: Spatula Coil Holder

using a wooden spatula {because it is non conductive}
Drill a 1 inch hole in the center of the wooden spatula

line the center of your coil up with the center of the hole drilled in the wide end of spatula and secure with 2-4 zip ties{ you can wrap the coil with electrical tape and the spatula)
Run the leads from the coil down the handle of the spatula and secure with tape or zip ties.

Step 11:

<p>I can't work out if this is a spoof or a pseudoscience mumbo jumbo thing. If it's a spoof, it's well done, if it's not, you have my sympathy. </p>
<p>Cool hack. I love seeing how people on this site can rework and repurpose everyday objects.</p>

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