Step 2Disassembly of Power Brick - Brute Force Attack
Underneath where the plug prongs slide in I found a weak spot where the seams have some give. If i had a thinner screwdriver I may have been able to avoid the next step. I used an exacto knife to shave the seam wider to slide my screwdriver in. Once in, give it a bit of a twist and the seam should crack open. This was a very noisy process for me.
This is where slow and delicate can save you a lot of cosmetic damage, but that was not my priority. Work around the case cracking the seams apart, being careful not to actually crack the case. Pretty much a clam-shell design so once its free it should slide off easily.
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Thanks for the inspiration to break the corporate seal.
Cheers.
If you DO decide to open the charger case, then assuming that you want to be able to reassemble it and have it work and be safe when you're done, there are some things you DO NOT want to do when opening the case. One of them is to destroy any or the plastic case around the power plug socket. Unfortunately, that's just what the big picture above does. That's NOT the place to start to open the case. Here are some alternatives:
1) Open the two flip-up doors, around which you wrap the low voltage wire, and then stick a pair of needle-nose pliers in the opening and use them to pry the two halves apart.
2) take a FINE saw (a jeweler's saw blade, a really fine hack saw, or a dremel rotary saw) and saw a very shallow distance (no more than 1/16th of an inch or 2 mm) along the plastic seam between the two halves of the case, along the top and bottom edges of the case (as shown in the picture above). Those are the edges that are glued together.
3) Take a very sharp wood chisel (1/2 or 1 inch wide), and place it along the top seam, and hit it twice with a hammer, then move it down and repeat. Do this along the top and bottom.
More importantly even with a better made charger with more robust strain relief, this type of damage occurs anyway, due to cord winding (though it is exacerbated by the square form of the adaptor head.) One should never wrap ANY length of cable over and over again. This puts significant, repeated stress on one side of cable, and each coil stretches the one side longer and longer as it travels the outside diameter of the circle, causing it to eventually fail. This is especially common with audio patch cables. Instead, one should "counter wrap." First wrap one coil overhand, so the free cable lies on top of the loops, then wrap the next coil underhand, so the free end comes out from under the previous coils. This forms a "mobius stip" that causes the strained side to reverse every coil. If one insists on using the fold out winding wings on the charger, one can arrive at the same effect by making a figure 8 after every coil, thus reversing the direction.
To increase the longevity of the cable, a little hot glue at both ends acts as an additional strain relief.