Instructables

Step 3: Casting the Wax

Once your bags are dissolved, it is almost time to pour the wax into molds.  You may have some small clumps of plastic at this point, and there are a few different ways to remove them.  The first option is to use a kitchen strainer to filter out the clumps as your pour the liquid goo into your molds.  This works very well, but I have yet to be able to re-use the kitchen strainer afterwards.  The second (and less effective) is to turn off your fryer and let the clumps float to the top.  The top of the liquid will start to solidify and make it easier to skim off the clumps with a spoon.  Either way, wear leather gloves!

If you chose option #2, turn your fryer back on and make sure your wax is liquid before pouring.  When pouring into molds, pour slowly but be committed as you do not want wax to drip down the side of your fryer.  Once poured, cover the molds with a towel so that they cool slowly.  The slower they cool, the more likely that air bubbles will escape before getting stuck in the wax.
 
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Felixg1 year ago
thanks! It is great info.
regards, Felix
i use a Crème Brûlée Burner to clean metal mesh's.
I burn it to carbon then remove it.
the metal usually handles more then 20 cleans
r_harris21 year ago
Have you tried a combination of melting and burning to clean the strainer? I am thinking of maybe an oven and/or hot air gun to melt the wax and allow as much as possible to run off, followed by burning the wax off with a clean burning flame such as a propane torch.

I use a wire probe over and over in a plastic casting process that I do, and the plastic builds up, and I find that a few seconds with a torch reduces the buildup to a carbon coating that can be wiped off. A strainer would be more difficult to clean, but if you can reduce the gunk to carbon soot, you might get it off with soap and water and a brush, or maybe a cycle in the dishwasher.
Good call. Strainers are cheap but should be cleanable as you describe. Also something just occurred to me... cheap off cuts of flyscreen maybe? Not sure it it works vis a vis fibreglass melting temps etc ...