Machinist's Gold Plated Oil Can

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Introduction: Machinist's Gold Plated Oil Can

Metal Contest

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Metal Contest

This is a must have tool for drilling in steel. You could just use an old bean can, but after you've spilled cutting oil everywhere, you'll see there's a better way...

Step 1: Watch the Build!

*Behold!* The must-have ultra luxurious, bleeding edge techno gadget for the more-money-than-brains-Louis-Vuiton gearhead crowd. Ultra exclusive offering; population: You.

I'll show you how I drilled, milled, glued, acid etched, copper and gold electroplated this one of a kind drill press oilcan. It's a real handy tool to have around the shop.

Heavy gold plated steel with magnetic base and brush retainer, ensures it won't spill during heavy cuts. The high performance, stinking-rich-grade gold electroplating ensures instant heat transfer to eliminate heat build up in high performance cutting fluids.

Step 2: Drill and Mill the -20 JIC Hydraulic Plug & Cap

Watch the vid for tips on installing a high strength magnet.

Step 3: Make the Copper Plating Solution

There is a great and simple instructable by A_Steingrube. Basically, use vinegar and hydrogen peroxide to disolve a copper scrub bud. Behold the majestic blue liquid!

Step 4: Gold Plating Magic

Same process as copper plating. Cleaning and prep is critical.

Watch the vid!

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16 Comments

Oops it actually HAuCl4.

I am doing something similar with gold chloride in HCl. (Hydrochloric acid) and Hydrogen peroxide. Gold plating over copper and stainless steel as long as it is polished first to allow a better contact with the metal. Then electrolysis where gold acid solution is diluted by half and two copper strips are made. The negative strip has copper pipes that I plan to coat gold onto with electricity. The yellow color may be gold chloride or gold chloride acid. (AuHCl3).

Here are some pictures.

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I still dont get half the technical stuff your talking about but good freaking god you are the most well spoken fun guy on YouTube!!!

Hey what is that circuit board called. The one the plugs in to a power supply and where did you find it. By the way totally kool totally overkill project!!! Wish I had gold. Just have done copper my self.

I learned a little trick to save some money on those expensive fuses for yer Fluke. Back in my mechanic'n days, I was taught that the fuses for those meters are "slow blow" fuses. So, you toss a fuse holder on the positive probe lead with 10A fast blow fuse in it. Now, when you pull a boner and test outside the range or the like, you only lose 10 cents instead of $50.

All good to add a fuse to save your 'slow blow' fuse, don't replace it with a cheap one though. The internal fuse is a HRC fuse, High Rupture Capacity or similar, it has many small fuse wires embedded in silica type grains. If and when an arc condition may be present across the leads the mini arcs created by the many tiny fuse wires turns the silica into glass and thus creates a great insulated gap, cutting the dangerous flow of electricity. Just for info, someone was talking about it one day and I listened.

Interesting! So this is one of those rare cases where it costs more because it's better. Who knew?