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Step 16Foibles and key fobs:

Foibles and key fobs:
I initially saved the CRT so that I could make a mold of it and enevitably a casting in clear plastic that would be rigid and fit the curvature of the screen hole perfectly. I tried all that I could for months before finally settling with sheet mylar: I tried two different plastics, latex and a poly-urethane RTV system (room temperature vulcanization) and even plaster. Nothing gave me a sturdy blemish and bubble free mold I could work with. I spent over eighty dollars trying to get it "perfect" when I could have gotten fairly satisfactory results by using some scrap mylar I had nearly forgotton about. I guess being a pack-rat is just as dangerous as not saving anything, you lose some really valuable materials amidst piles of other treasures.
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3 comments
Nov 28, 2007. 5:08 AMkillerjackalope says:
Acrylic matching the colour closely (or clear/smoke with the rear side sanded) and a heat gun or monster hairdryer, make sure the screen part is facing upwards (like if the computer was on it's back) lay the acrylic sheet over and heat evenly until the shaped is replicated, This will work with any thermoplastic plastic acrylic is just handy.
Mar 12, 2009. 6:52 AMDallasDeckard says:
Thanks for that, Killerjackalope. I was looking for a way to do something like that, and you just helped me out. I have the heat gun, the plastic, and now the knowledge to do it right. Thanks.
Aug 21, 2008. 10:12 PMaphyllophorales says:
one needs to vacuum chamber liquid rubbers and plastics to get them truely bubble free, though surface bubbles can be minimized by brushing on the first layer or two of mold material.

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