Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 4Induction Coil Housing: Back Wheel
I tied the audio cable around the induction coils to protect the delicate leads from any pulling force and soldered them in place. Each of these was now independent of the LEDs in their housings; to connect them, I'd just need to plug them in.
Now, to build the housings for the induction coils. For the rear housing, I wanted an aerodynamic housing that would nestle into the rear triangle of my bike frame, right next to the axle. I cut this from a satellite dish (same one that provided me with the audio cables and jacks. Everything was carefully measured out and sketched onto the satellite dish, and then I cut out the housing and shaped it using a dremel.
The induction coil was then sealed with large amounts of hot glue and mounted into the housing. Hot glue was also used to mount the housing to the frame. Afterwards, I did a quick test to make sure that the wheel was inducting a current in the circuit, and that it indeed lit up the LEDs.
Now, to build the housings for the induction coils. For the rear housing, I wanted an aerodynamic housing that would nestle into the rear triangle of my bike frame, right next to the axle. I cut this from a satellite dish (same one that provided me with the audio cables and jacks. Everything was carefully measured out and sketched onto the satellite dish, and then I cut out the housing and shaped it using a dremel.
The induction coil was then sealed with large amounts of hot glue and mounted into the housing. Hot glue was also used to mount the housing to the frame. Afterwards, I did a quick test to make sure that the wheel was inducting a current in the circuit, and that it indeed lit up the LEDs.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
1
comment
|
Add Comment
|
Feb 11, 2010. 8:03 PMrpvanpatt
says:
do you kno about how much volts are created with the coil?
Reply
 |
Add Comment
|
