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Step 5Set up your tools.
Once your die jig is finished, mounting it is relatively easy. I used gfixler's eyeballing method of rotating the cubes/dice to find the center. See his page for more information.
Once the jig was centered with the drill press, I clamped it to the built in table.
If your drill press doesn't have a built in stop, you may be out of luck. maybe you'll just have to eye things up, or get a new press. If you do have a stop, set it shallower than you want to drill, then slowly deepen it, until a magnet will rest just under the surface of the test die. you don't want the magnets to touch each other.
For the D32 magnets, you will need a 3/16" high speed steel bit. The D62's need a 3/8" bit. If you have bits specifically designed for plastic, use them. Otherwise, use "split point" or "self centering" bits and make sure to let the bit cool down every few holes. You also may want to use water or another coolant to help prevent melting.
You will need a strong glue. I opted for a two-part epoxy from LocTite, purchased from the local Fleet Farm. It dries to a transparent yellow. When it comes to glueing the magnets in, you may need another clamp, especially if you have a slow drying glue like my epoxy.
According to my package, the LocTite sets in 5 minutes, hardens to a usable hardness after 8 hours, and dries completely in 24 hours. For the core, I made sure previously glued magnets had been glued for 24 hours before attempting to add others, but for the others, half an hour or so was enough.
Once the jig was centered with the drill press, I clamped it to the built in table.
If your drill press doesn't have a built in stop, you may be out of luck. maybe you'll just have to eye things up, or get a new press. If you do have a stop, set it shallower than you want to drill, then slowly deepen it, until a magnet will rest just under the surface of the test die. you don't want the magnets to touch each other.
For the D32 magnets, you will need a 3/16" high speed steel bit. The D62's need a 3/8" bit. If you have bits specifically designed for plastic, use them. Otherwise, use "split point" or "self centering" bits and make sure to let the bit cool down every few holes. You also may want to use water or another coolant to help prevent melting.
You will need a strong glue. I opted for a two-part epoxy from LocTite, purchased from the local Fleet Farm. It dries to a transparent yellow. When it comes to glueing the magnets in, you may need another clamp, especially if you have a slow drying glue like my epoxy.
According to my package, the LocTite sets in 5 minutes, hardens to a usable hardness after 8 hours, and dries completely in 24 hours. For the core, I made sure previously glued magnets had been glued for 24 hours before attempting to add others, but for the others, half an hour or so was enough.
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13
May 12, 2011. 2:20 PM
zipzapper859
says:
zipzapper859
says:
could you use hot glue or would it not hold up?
Reply
Apr 28, 2011. 8:38 AMfastback570
says:
You may not be down feeding fast enough if getting melting even before the drill bit is warm. increase feedrate.
Reply
Apr 8, 2008. 2:13 PMmattgallion
says:
how about just super glue. or would that not be strong enough?
Reply
44
Apr 12, 2009. 8:15 AMsharlston
says:
that would work but epoxy is best
Reply
Apr 24, 2008. 5:19 PMHel_Guardian
says:
This isn't really a comment towards that, but I have a similar question. Do you think Liquid Nails Small Projects and Repairs Adhesive would dissolve the acrylic dice?
Reply
2
Apr 24, 2008. 6:42 PMburzvingion (author)
says:
I don't have any personal experience with that particular product, but I believe it is designed mainly for wood, yes? I doubt it would dissolve the acrylic, but I don't know how well it would bond to smooth metal either. Try some and see I guess.
Reply
1
Sep 5, 2008. 4:12 PMdarthdarth4
says:
This isn't really a reply srry about that but what can you use to replace a drill press cause I don't have one
Reply
Apr 2, 2009. 8:45 PMmikerockwell1975
says:
I think it "may" be possible to make a jig with a soldering iron and a specially designed tip. It WILL be messy though, and will involve using a razor to cut the flashing from the rehardened plastic. Be careful doing this. I have permanent scars from playing with my soldering iron as a kid, lol!
Reply
Aug 29, 2008. 6:47 PMfroggyman
says:
I know on kjmagnetics site it recommends using loctite epoxy or liquid nails, but yeah the liquid nails would probaly be the magnets to wood. And currently i am working on a wooden cube (made of red oak) and i will be using liquid nails
Reply
Apr 26, 2008. 10:23 AMHel_Guardian
says:
...It doesn't work guess you were right but w.e. it was only $2.00
Reply
2
Apr 8, 2008. 4:18 PMburzvingion (author)
says:
yes, several people have used super glue. It works. It's super. It's messy.
Reply
Apr 8, 2008. 5:04 PMmattgallion
says:
true. i didnt think of the messy part.
Reply
1
Apr 22, 2008. 12:25 AMGonazar
says:
in my case epoxy was just as bad, i got it all over my hands when the magnet popped out before i clamped it. But i still agree, i'd rather have a mess of epoxy than super glue. That stuff is nasty to get off...
Reply
Mar 24, 2009. 11:40 AMandyrak
says:
If you don't have a stop for the drill you can place a small piece of tape around the bit near the tip so it's bottom delineates the the depth to drill the die. You can then eyeball it fairly consistently as you drill. Also, superglue now has a gel version which is pretty nice to use... much thicker.
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