I am tired of the same old-fashion key chains, and want an alternative that is light weight, compact, and simple to make and use.  I've seen some alternatives that are available on Kickstarter and here on Instructables(https://www.instructables.com/id/Swiss-Army-Key-Ring/)  but none that were quite what I wanted. 

The goal: Organize keys while reducing bulk and weight. Stop keys from jingling, becoming disorganized or causing discomfort. Keys needed to be easily accessible, and the organizer simple, compact, durable, and aesthetically pleasing. 

The design I settled on is similar in form to a folding pocket knife and holds 3 keys (a non-transponder car key, a house key and a garage key. This Instructable will be the third key organizer I've built. (I wanted to get the process worked out before I wrote it up). As a bonus with this build, I'm adding some neodymium magnets so that the keys can be hung from any iron or steel surface.
p.s. this is my 1st Instructable, please forgive any newbie mistakes nut still point them out so I can do better next time.

Step 1: Materials & Tools

Wood- I used 3mm thick cocobolo scrap I had around the house. 
Aluminum "U" channel- Found at most hardware stores. This was 10mm i.d. & 13mm o.d. and would be suitable for 4 normal thickness keys.
Rivet or 'Chicago-screw (www.chicagoscrews.com/‎)- I used copper rivets.
Washers- Thin washers with i.d. just large enough to slip over the rivet to use as spacers.
Neodymium magnets- Used so I can stick the keys to the fridge or hide them under the car by sticking them to the car's frame.
Epoxy- I used quick curing JB Weld, but any relatively fast curing epoxy should do. The dark color of the JB Weld matches well with the dark striations in the cocobolo, it contains iron so it becomes magnetic when used with the magnets, and I just happened to have some in the toolbox.
Keys- Be sure to use a spare set in case you mess up and wreck em.
Wood finish- I used Tru-Oil gun stock finish. But any finish that seals and protects the wood will work.
Sand paper

Saws to cut wood and aluminum. 
File or grinder to shape keys.
Belt sander (optional-I just used sandpaper of varying grits when I made my 1st key organizer).
Vise or clamps for gluing wood to aluminum.

Step 2: Cut & Shape Keys

The goal here is to 1st remove unnecessary material from the keys to both reduce mass and profile and 2nd to round the ends of all 3 keys so that they will have a smooth profile to roll around the rivet and push against the 'spring' (more on that later).
The two house keys are aluminum and are easy to cut & file, while the car key is brass and was much harder to shape. I used tin snips to remove the majority of the back end of the key, and then used hand files to round & shape them. I used one of the 'spacer' washers to help me gauge the roundness of the ends. 

Step 3: Cut Aluminum "U" Channel and Wood

Now that you've shaped your keys, select the longest key. Cut a section of the aluminum channel to be just a bit longer than the longest key. 
Then cut 3 sections of wood to laminate to the aluminum. The center piece should be just a bit wider than the base of the "U" channel width (i.e. about 14mm). The side pieces should be a bit wider than the height of the "U" plus the thickness of the center piece (i.e. about 17-18mm).

Hint: If possible, try to match the woodgrain so it will wrap seamlessly around the Aluminum.

Step 4: Epoxy Wood to Aluminum Channel

1st mix a small amount of epoxy. Spread it on the outer base of the "U" channel and on the center wood strip. I used a couple pieces of tape to help hold position until I got it clamped in a vise. After the epoxy hardened I used a belt sander to grind the wood flush to the sides of the "U".
I then epoxied on the side pieces in the same fashion. 
You should now have a rather ugly composite wood & aluminum "U" channel. It was at this point that I stumbled across a couple small neodymium magnets (8mm in diameter and 2mm thick) and had the belatedly brilliant idea to incorporate them into the design. I drilled holes into the wood on one side just large enough for the magnets and epoxied them into place. I then covered them with more epoxy so they would be completely covered.

Step 5: Sand & Shape.

Sand, sand, sand...
I used a belt sander to do the majority of the rough shaping. Wow, that went quick. The last two times I made these I did all the shaping with hand files and lots of sand paper. It took a lot longer, but looked just as good.

Step 6: Cut Slots to Make the 'Spring'.

Tape off the key/pivot end. Secure in a vice or clamp. Using a small precise saw (I used a coping saw) cut diagonally thru the corners to a depth of about 1.5-2cm. Be sure to only cut in one direction, from wood to aluminum. That should prevent any splintering of the wood. 

With both corners cut, you create a diving board like spring that will flex very slightly. This will be important to movement of the keys.

Feedback needed: Does anybody have any better ideas on how to create a spring mechanism? The spring is to hold the keys in the channel when they are in the closed position. The Aluminum by itself is too soft and would just bend, but when laminated to the wood it has enough elasticity to flex rather than deform. Still, its a crude solution and I'd love to hear some suggestions for improvements.

Step 7: Drilling Holes

1st the keys. I tape them together very well with the trimmed rounded ends aligned.  I use a washer to gauge where the hole should be. You want to offset the washer between 0.25 and 0.5mm away from the rounded end so that the hole that you drill will also be slightly offset. Secure the washer with another piece of tape. Go Drill. Use a bit slightly larger than your rivet diameter.
When you're done check that the rivet fits loosely thru the keys.

2nd the channel. Lay the keys down inside the channel, with the rounded ends flush with the end of the channel. Note where the hole in the keys  aligns with the channel. Mark it (I used sharpie). Select a drill bit the same size as your rivet. (hint: drill a test hole in scrap wood and check the rivet fit prior to drilling the channel, the fit should be quite snug) Place tape over the wood to protect it. Time to drill. When you are done, check the fit with the rivet, it should be very snug.

Step 8: Fitting the Keys

Place the keys in the channel with all the drilled holes aligned. If the keys only have teeth on one edge, they should be facing down in contact with the channel base. Push a rod or nail a bit smaller than the rivet thru the holes temporarily pinning the keys in place.

The hole thru the keys was drilled slightly offset. The keys are meant to rotate around the pivot. As a key approaches perpendicular to the channel, it should depress the spring slightly. Just enough to provide some friction. Be careful not to force the key if there is a lot of resistance, you might break or deform the spring. If there is too much resistance, remove the keys and file down the rounded end to slightly reduce the offset. Replace & retry until you get each key to the point of slight resistance. Your goal is to get opening a key from the channel to have a similar feel to opening the blade of a small folding pocket knife.

This step usually takes me 4-5 tries to get it 'just' right.

Once you're happy with the key rotation, place the washers between the keys as needed to keep the keys from being wobbly or rattley.

Step 9: Place the Rivet.

My rivet had a HUGE head, so I filed it down from 10mm to about 5mm in diameter. After getting the rivet in place through the keys washers and channel, do a final range of motion test for the keys. (I had to adjust one more time :-(   )

Now comes the time to peen. As a kid I always wondered about the mystery of the ball peen hammer. Now, I know. At least a little. I'm not even going to try to explain peening, since I learned how to do it from https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-peen-a-rivet/

So, carefully, carefully, CAREFULLY, peen away until you are satisfied that your rivet is both secure and aesthetically spread out.

Step 10: Sand, Sand, Sand Some More... and Then Finish!

Like the title says...sand. A lot. I started with 250 grit, then 350 grit, and then 400. Long story short though, you're basically done already and everything in this step is icing on the cake. I sanded until the wood and copper and aluminum was as smooth as silk.

Finally. I finished the wood with 3 coats of Tru-Oil. 3 very light coats. In this case less is more. Let it dry and...

Viola! Keys neuvo!

Thanks for slogging thru my 1st Insrtuctable!

a. I probably should have mentioned that it is a good idea to get differently colored keys when getting your key copies. It make identifying the correct key much easier. 
b. The washer/spacers are only needed if you don't fill all the space with the AL channel with keys. If I had narrower channel for this instructable, I wouldn't need them. And don't try nylon or plastic washers as spacers. They only last for a few months and then disintegrate as the rotating keys wear away at them.
c. Weight reduction. My regular set of keys weighs 45grams without the lanyard. The key sets shown below weigh in at: lower right 32grams, middle 35grams, top left (the one we just made) 42 grams. The magnets definitely increased the weight.
d. Doh! If you carry your wallet in your front pocket, you probably shouldn't carry your neodymium magnet enhanced keys along with it.  Time for a new credit card ;-)

Step 11: Post-Postscript: the Transponder Key!

There were a couple of replies to this Instructable that implied that a transponder key couldn't be incorporated into one of these organizers. Well, that got me curious to see how much harder it would be. Well, it was incredibly easy.
Step 1: Watch a video showing how to remove the transponder from your cars type of key. The one I watched is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiNaotDpVOY
Step 2: Go get a transponder key made (My dealer charged me $29 for a transponder valet key like the one in the video.Do not have them program the vehicle to accept the key yet, just in case you break it.) and remove the transponder.
Step 3: Make the key organizer, embedding the transponder chip as close to the key end of the organizer as possible. Embed in the same fashion that I embedded the magnets in this Instructable (but do not  use JB Kwik, the very high iron content could block the chip).
Step 4: Go to your dealer and have them program your vehicle to accept your new key. Viola! The new key organizer works fine.

This organizer has curly maple sides and a black palm back, is 2in long and weighs in at 34grams. It has my truck key with transponder, 2 house keys, and  neodymium magnets. And it looks cool.
<p>great product. I am researching key holders for an assisted living company. Are you making and selling this product?</p>
Sorry. I just made a few of these for myself and a few for gifts. If you're looking to get something similar you could try a new product that looks promising.<br>http://getkeysmart.com<br>Mike
<p>Nice x-ray of the keys was that on a commercial one or medical? I Was thinking of incorporating the transponder into one of the sides so you have access to the buttons. Nice Job!</p>
<p>If you don't have different colored spare keys you can get nail polishes and a dollar store and paint a line on the outside edge just below the rounded end. Or better yet borrow some from your wife, girlfriend or sister.</p>
didn't see anyone else posting questions in regard to this but would having two transponders interfere with each other, one on each side of channel? what if i did a two rivet design, one on each end?
<p>I haven't tried, but I wouldn't think it would be any worse than having two transponder keys on the same keychain. I'll try making one when I make my next one.</p>
Great job! Best looking key-holder I've seen yet!
WOW!! This looks great!! You could sell these like crazy on Etsy!!
This, sir, is brilliant. I want to convince my wife to let me make one, maybe two, so she can have one as well. Being a guy who likes to have a pocket knife at all times, I might try putting a small blade in there too, but we'll see. Thanks for posting this.
You didn't remove any &quot;unneccessary material&quot;. All that material aids in rotating the keys in the lock. Even with your fob, turning the key in a stiff lock is difficult.
If the lock is stiff and giving problems with this device, all one would need to do is fold the handle down to a 90 degree angle, which would allow more torque and leverage. <br>
So far I've been using my 1st key organizer for almost a year without any difficulty, in door knob lock, deadbolts, and in the car. There has been no loss in torque-ability.
I'd like to suggest: 1) Make your channel out of brass shim stock, it will provide a back spring for your keys. 2) Cut spare keys before touching a saw to your original keys. <br>I made my organizer, however, I'll make this also. I have lots of keys. <br>Good work
Instead of wood you could use something like silicone or suguru
Just an idea here <br>It may be simpler to use a router to make a channel in thicker wood big enough for the U-section to be fitted into. That way the grain will match all the way around!
Great instructable, but I'd prefer mild steel over alumimium.
Me too! Or better yet, titanium. If you know of a source of &quot;U&quot;channel of either material I'd love to hear about it.
These guys have everything metal, even more than McMaster-Carr <br> <br> <br>http://www.johnsonrollforming.com/display.php/display/A1/category/2
Great idea!<br> I was just in an discussion last week with a friend who caries more keys and all sort of things in a life-size carabiner everywhere he goes. He thinks it helps him not loosing his keys.<br> For my self, i always like to carry as little as possible, only bring the keys that is used everyday, and in the simplest keychain possible (i bring 2 keys in a 4mm elastic cord loop with a brass ball and a small Spanish coin to make it unique).<br> <br> And then i saw you i'ble, it gave me a light-bulb-moment and thought: hmm, i'll make my keys even smaller, and show it to him for fun, then i'll keep it for a year without loosing it just to show off and hopefully annoys my friend a bit.. :D<br> <br> Thanks for the inspiration m_jorge!<br> Cheers...<br> <br> Here's what i made:<br> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z81Xm-Yfb-4&amp;feature=youtu.be<br> <div class="media_embed"> <iframe frameborder="0" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/z81Xm-Yfb-4?feature=player_detailpage" width="640"></iframe></div> <br> I trimmed down the two house keys (copies of them, not the original - turns out they're nicely soft to trim down), drilled a new hole and bolted them together just at right tension. I also trimmed the extensive bolt and almost half of the nut in a more rounded shape which is nicer to the touch.. *i tipped a small amount of superglue to stop the nut turning loose.<br> oh, and i used washers on each side..<br> <br> To use it, i swing one key out of the way and it makes a good lever since the &quot;head&quot; of the key is smaller now..<br>
Cool Idea!
very nice, i wish i had one.
Don't try this with a &quot;smart&quot; key. With many cars the chip in the key handle is needed in order to start the car.
It would work if you embed the chip inside the key holder somewhere. I had a broken original car key (black part with chip only, key part broken off) and duplicate key (no black part with chip). Placed the black part close to ignition and turned the duplicate key. Worked without a hitch.
I'm not understanding how your spring mechanism works in this design. Once you cut the angles through the wood and aluminum then what. How does it fit into your 1.5-2 cm grooves. Pictures would help.
I'll do my best to get some pictures out tomorrow.
I think this animation should show how the spring action works. (Need to click on the image to start animation.) <br>As the key begins to rotate, the eccentric rounded end pushes against the cut-free base of the 'U'. The composite of AL &amp; wood has enough elasticity to bend and spring back, pushing against the key.
I think I'll have to do something like this - my motorcycle's keyslot is in a place where if I use a chain or ring, it'll damage the paint as the other keys rattle in the air - using a setup like this, they won't, so they won't do any damage, either! <br> <br>It would also be easy to just use the aluminum (or steel) channel and powdercoat it any color you want.
I didn't need to organize my keys, but I did need a way to carry my lock-pick set and a torsion bar( I'm a locksmith, carrying picks will get you in trouble if you aren't one.) so I took your great idea and ran with it! Thank you for posting!
Very cool!
I'd lay a thin piece of steel to prevent keys from rubbing off the aluminium. Same kind that is used on pallet packaging. It could be glued with a flexible glue or epoxied on the opposite side...
Excellent idea. I'll try that on the next one I make&gt;
clever and cool. the only thing is, won't work with chip keys.
Yes and no. You'd need co cannibalize one of your existing transponder keys for the key shaft and the transponder. Since those keys cost 100-150$ at the dealer, I was unwilling to invest in buying a new key for the project. However, it is simple to remove the transponder from most keys, and it could be incorporated into the body of the key organizer in the same way I incorporated the magnets.
Won't the magnets interfere with electronics?
Well, it certainly interfered with the credit card that I had in the same pocket. But no, there has been, so far, no interaction between the electronics of my car and the magnets on the key organizer. However, the magnets are optional.
Don't try this with a smart key. That includes many car keys with immobilizer chips in them.
There are many youtube videos on how to remove the transponder chip from modern keys. Examples include: www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiNaotDpVOY ; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R610pJxUJAA ; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOWRj-hP4Ns. I have not tried it, since I only have two keys to my vehicle that has that type of key, and getting a copy made is prohibitively expensive for me. But it would certainly seen possible. If any of my friends ask me to make a key organizer with one of their transponder keys I'll be sure to post the results. I'd certainly love to try.
very cool.... good job!
excellent! simple and inventive.
Pretty darn cool! Nice work!
made one out of two nylon squegees/scrapers and I use a magnet for keeping the keys locked inside(my keys are metallic) so the screws dont have to be tight, and I left a tab when grinding the keys so you can flick it open
I am a mechanic. there are a few spring type of washers that I've used while working on cars.
It could screw up your credit cards though
Great project. Well done on explanation and workmanship. Real Mechanic. I'm going to make one now.
im really liking this if possible i would make this into a keychain cause i there are some keys i wouldnt put in it.
Love this idea. Sad thing is, here in Germany I'm not allowed to replicate most of my keys.
Nicely done!
The only bad thing about this idea is that i didnt think of it first! great idea, especially the magnet, and great work too! im going to make one as well.
The only bad thing about this idea is that i didnt think of it first! great idea, especially the magnet, and great work too! im going to make one as well.

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