Step 4: Bamboo Flute: Panflute
Please note: No Nymphs were harmed in the making of this Panflute.
Preparing the Bamboo:
For a compact and easy to play panflute, select a piece of bamboo that is around 1-2 centimeters in total diameter. Unlike length, diameter does not affect the pitch of the pipe, it only modifies the timbre. Also note that each pipe is closed at one end, which will be achieved using the existing nodes. Note also that as their are two "bumps" at each node, the one that is solid all the way through is always the thinnest. It is because of this I made each of my pan pipes by sawing slightly behind the wider "bump" to ensure the tube was always closed.
Cutting the tubes to Length:
As stated earlier, length is the primary factor upon which the pitch of the tube depends. Because I want to give you the option of building a panflute in any key, I won't just tell you the lengths I used. Instead, I'll let you know how to choose yourself.
First, here are the general tube lengths for any pan pipe at ''panflutejedi.com'' These lengths are expressed in inches, which is annoying for me, as I am an American who hates imprecise units of measurement. Use a calculator like this one at manuelsweb.com to convert them to centimeters. (I will add a metric chart as soon as I can. Notice that the higher lengths of the same notes are half of the lower ones. This is true with all closed tubes, so feel free to make lower tubes than shown here.
To begin the actual construction, get your bamboo (fig.1) and measure the appropriate length from the THIN BUMP at the node, which is where the solid end of the tube is (fig.2). Mark the length with a pencil (fig.3). Now, clamp your bamboo down and carefully cut with a hacksaw, as thinner bamboo like this is more likely to splinter than usual (fig.4,5).
Clean and Test Your Pipe:
Though it would make sense to blow on the pipe now to see if it must be tuned and trimmed, you must first clean out the inside. Thinner, higher pieces of bamboo like this often have a white, flaky, "skin" on the inside which must be removed before a tone is produced. Use a file or a drill bit to scrape it all out and off of the bamboo wall (fig.6,7,8). At this point, test your pipe and determine whether it is in tune or not. My first pipe was just sharp of what I needed, so I trimmed it and made it the next pipe on my scale.
Finish the Pipe:
Use either a sander or a sanding bit on your rotary tool to round out the blowing end of your bamboo (fig.9,10). Make sure not to sand off to much, as this may alter the tone. Now, make a mark with pencil just behind the wide node on your pipe (fig.11). Clamp your bamboo down again and make a cut with a hacksaw where you marked (fig.12). This cut will be, once again, quite rough, so it is suggested you sand this end in a similar fashion, also making sure to remove any "skin" that is still attached to the node. Congrats, you now have a finished pipe (fig.13,14).
As stated, you must repeat this process over and over until you have 8 pipes (fig.15,16). These 8 pipes will only make a full scale, spanning one whole octave. Because I wanted my pipes to be more versatile than this, I added four more pipes, still in the same key I had chosen (fig.17,18,19). With these extra four notes, I could now play in both the original key (G), and the key 3 notes higher (C). This is of course optional, but I feel is a great way to make your panflute more versatile without compromising portability.
Making the Cross Members
Find a piece of bamboo that is long enough to span your planflute and is around 1cm in diameter. Make a cut within both nodes with a hacksaw so you have a hollow tube. Hold the tube straight up on your workbench, and using a knife, simply slice the tube in half (fig.20). Not much pressure is required to split the bamboo, and usually is cuts like butter. Warning: If too much force is applied on the bamboo with the knife, you may just slice so quickly, you'll catch a few fingers instead (fig.21). This happened to me, so BE CAREFUL!!! So now, lay out your panflute and place the cross members over the pipes as pictured in figure 22. If necessary, trim the cross members so no more than 1cm of excess sticks out from the pipes. Now that you know where the Cross members go, it's time to tie them on.
Tying the Cross Members:
Get out a whole spool of a choice color string (fig.23). Begin by laying the first pipe diagonally over a stretch of string (the end of string going to the open end of the pipe), with the the upper cross member lying diagonally across the pipe (fig.24). Pull up both ends of the string up (fig.25, 26), and tie them in a simple loop knot (fig.27). Tie another knot above the previous one (square knot). Then loop the spool of string around the knots multiple times (fig.28). After around ten turns, loop the spool around so it is at the opposite corner of the X made by the pipe and cross member (fig.29). Loop the spool around in this direction for another ten turns (fig.37). Place the next pipe by the first (fig.30), and bring the thread over the cross member and the next pipe (fig.31). Wrap the spool in this direction for ten turns (fig.32,33,34). Then bring the spool across to the other corner as done previously (fig.35). Loop the spool in this direction for 10 turns (fig.36). Repeat until all pipes are secure (fig.37-43). Tie off the string in a square knot at the last pipe, securing them tightly.
For the bottom cross member, begin as you did before on the upper cross member (fig.45-49). Continue by brining the string over the second pipe as before, but only loop around ten turns in that one direction (fig.50). Then, bring the string over the second (fig.51), and loop the spool around for ten turns here (fig.52). Repeat this process until each pipe is secure. Tie the string off at the last pipe with a square knot, good and tight.
YOU'VE COMPLETED YOUR PANFLUTE! NOW GO ANY PLAY SOME BEAUTIFUL MUSIC! (fig.53,54)