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Step 7Post Script: Extra thoughts about the project.
Hi. This will be the home for my edits and later thoughts about the project that I want to add. I will read each one of your comments, and if I feel you have a good question of have pointed out a major flaw, I will make amends and post my answer here. So, go ahead. Enjoy the instruments!
Warning: The following information describes methods to preserve and increase the longevity of your fragile bamboo instruments. I am sure that these instruments will make beautiful music without further modification, but if you are willing to try these extra steps, you are welcome to. I am not responsible for an instrument that was harmed by using this extra steps, however I will take credit for one that sings like an angel. Good luck!
Curing
Multiple Commenters have expressed their worry about the fact that my instruments are not cured. Cured bamboo is less suceptible to cracking, drying out and becoming brittle, damage by moisture, and of course has that familiar "tiki" golden color. While I have experimented several times with curing my bamboo, I felt that for this instructable, which was for easy bamboo flutes, curing shouldn't take up to much of the space. Curing at first can see very intimidating and dangerous, as it does involve nearly-burning your bamboo. Curing is very easy though, and it will weather-proof and child-proof your flutes pretty well. There are multiple methods.
In India, bamboo is usually cured by soaking it in water for ninety days, then drying it in the sun for two weeks. This is obviously inconvenient for the average maker, and risks various types of water damage and warping.
In Japan, the classic method is to drain the sugary resin from the green bamboo by heating it over a charcoal fire. The outside of the culm becomes very sticky and covered in sap, which it then removed with a wet cloth. This minimally waterproofs the material, burns out all bugs and imperfections, and after thousands of years, has earned it's Skyfinity seal of approval.
However, a charcoal fire may or may not be the best thing for an inexperienced bamboo flautist. It is important to never let your bamboo become black with soot. This will take a lot of scrubbing to get out, and will stain anything it touches. To avoid this, keep the bamboo turning, and don't let any one area spend to much time in the flame. Simply hold the bamboo in a place where the heat is just enough to get the resin popping and leeching though the bark, which is often accompanied by a sizzling sound. This level of heat can be achieved by use of a blowtorch or even a simple gas stove.
Oiling
Once your bamboo is cured, cut, and is finally a beautiful flute, it may be important to "oil" it. Oiling wooded flutes and other instruments ensures their protection against humidity. There are many commercial oils that are sold to oil wooden recorders and specialty wooden flutes, but there has been so much argument over which of these oils is best, that for your bamboo, starting from scratch is better. Go to your local "health" food store, and scope out their selection of natural oils. Always avoid oils that mention being "boiled" and altogether avoid Boiled linseed oil. Your best bet is probably Flax oil. This type of oil will keep you flute oiled for longer than the "boiled" variety, and is perfectly safe to use with your flute. Oil using a soaked cloth, and run it in and out the body of the flute with a stick or bent wire. Roll the cloth up tightly to oil the finger holes, but not the embouchure, as droplets of moisture here could cause a shrill hoarse sound.
Warning: The following information describes methods to preserve and increase the longevity of your fragile bamboo instruments. I am sure that these instruments will make beautiful music without further modification, but if you are willing to try these extra steps, you are welcome to. I am not responsible for an instrument that was harmed by using this extra steps, however I will take credit for one that sings like an angel. Good luck!
Curing
Multiple Commenters have expressed their worry about the fact that my instruments are not cured. Cured bamboo is less suceptible to cracking, drying out and becoming brittle, damage by moisture, and of course has that familiar "tiki" golden color. While I have experimented several times with curing my bamboo, I felt that for this instructable, which was for easy bamboo flutes, curing shouldn't take up to much of the space. Curing at first can see very intimidating and dangerous, as it does involve nearly-burning your bamboo. Curing is very easy though, and it will weather-proof and child-proof your flutes pretty well. There are multiple methods.
In India, bamboo is usually cured by soaking it in water for ninety days, then drying it in the sun for two weeks. This is obviously inconvenient for the average maker, and risks various types of water damage and warping.
In Japan, the classic method is to drain the sugary resin from the green bamboo by heating it over a charcoal fire. The outside of the culm becomes very sticky and covered in sap, which it then removed with a wet cloth. This minimally waterproofs the material, burns out all bugs and imperfections, and after thousands of years, has earned it's Skyfinity seal of approval.
However, a charcoal fire may or may not be the best thing for an inexperienced bamboo flautist. It is important to never let your bamboo become black with soot. This will take a lot of scrubbing to get out, and will stain anything it touches. To avoid this, keep the bamboo turning, and don't let any one area spend to much time in the flame. Simply hold the bamboo in a place where the heat is just enough to get the resin popping and leeching though the bark, which is often accompanied by a sizzling sound. This level of heat can be achieved by use of a blowtorch or even a simple gas stove.
Oiling
Once your bamboo is cured, cut, and is finally a beautiful flute, it may be important to "oil" it. Oiling wooded flutes and other instruments ensures their protection against humidity. There are many commercial oils that are sold to oil wooden recorders and specialty wooden flutes, but there has been so much argument over which of these oils is best, that for your bamboo, starting from scratch is better. Go to your local "health" food store, and scope out their selection of natural oils. Always avoid oils that mention being "boiled" and altogether avoid Boiled linseed oil. Your best bet is probably Flax oil. This type of oil will keep you flute oiled for longer than the "boiled" variety, and is perfectly safe to use with your flute. Oil using a soaked cloth, and run it in and out the body of the flute with a stick or bent wire. Roll the cloth up tightly to oil the finger holes, but not the embouchure, as droplets of moisture here could cause a shrill hoarse sound.
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Jul 25, 2010. 1:06 PMZip-A-Dee-Doo-Dah
says:
Wow, I really want to try and make one of these now, great instructions! They sound so beautiful, it would be wonderful to learn how to play them as well. I'm only wondering now, because I'm artistic and I love the little details, if carving a small design into the flute after it's done would mess with the diameter and ruin the sound? Or would it not matter if the inside diameter remains unchanged?
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Jul 26, 2010. 7:48 AM
Skyfinity (author)
says:
Skyfinity (author)
says:
You a correct. Any additions to the outside that don´t compromise the inner diameter, or the piece´s overall structural integrity would be fine. I am glad you liked the way they sound, but MAN oh MAN are those recordings terrible. At the time I didn´t know how to use them well and had a terrible microphone. Unforunatley I cannot record new ones as I no longer have any of these flutes. If you do intend to make a design, be sure to cure the bamboo first, and make sure you don´t cause the "splintering" that occurrs so often with these. Please post your results. I would love to see them.
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