Introduction: Make a 120 LED Work Light

Nobody likes using halogen work lights. They consume too much power and get so hot that every time you move them you scald your hand. Although LED work lights are readily available at almost all of the big-box home improvement stores, they're just too plain expensive. So in an effort to save money (and have some fun at the same time) I decided to build my own.

Step 1: The Base

Although I had considered making the base out of wood, I felt that PVC was a better option since it is lightweight yet sturdy.

Parts:

(4) 3/4" 90 degree PVC elbows
(2) 3/4" PVC tees
(2) 3/4" PVC caps (not pictured)
About 4 feet of 3/4" schedule 40 PVC pipe

Pipe Dimensions:

(4) 3" pieces
(2) 7 1/2" pieces
(2) 8" pieces


Two of the sides of the base are made up of the 7 1/2" pieces, and the other two sides are made of a tee and two 3" pieces. Connect it all together using the 90 degree tees. I just tapped it all together with a mallet. Make sure you face the tees upright as shown in the third photo.

The upright pieces are the 8" pieces. Both of these need to have holes drilled in them, as these are what the light mounts to. Drill the holes 2" in from the one end of the pipe. Since I am using 1/4" bolts, I used a 1/4" drill bit. Drill through both sides of the pipe so that the bolt can pass all the way through.

Once you've drilled the holes, you can put the pieces into the tees. Make sure that the holes are at the top and that they face each other. See photo 6. Then, put the 2 caps on the open ends of the pipe.

NOTE: I did not glue any of the pipe together as I felt that pounding the pipe into the fittings was sturdy enough. However, if you want to glue the pipe together, feel free to do so.

Step 2: The Switch Box

The switch box holds the switch (duh) that turns all of the lights on and off. Although wiring all of the lights together on one switch is unnecessary, I felt that it would make using the light easier.

Parts:

(2) 1 x 2 x 5 1/2", (outside dimensions) cut on a 45 degree angle
(2) 1 x 2 x 3", (outside dimensions) cut on a 45 degree angle
Scrap sheet metal, I used a piece from an old project box
(1) toggle switch
(4) #4 x 5/8 wood screws
1 1/4" brad nails

Start out by arranging the 4 wood pieces as shown in photo 1. Then, using painters tape, (masking tape would do) tape the pieces together. I've found that this is easier than using clamps, because you can nail right through the tape.

Then, using the 1 1/4" brad nails, nail the box together. I used 4 nails in each corner. Then, peel the painters tape off. Now you can putty the nail holes with wood putty. Then sand the whole thing down.

Now, print 2 copies of the template. You will need to cut out the center of the template, around the dotted lines. Then attach it with tape to one side of the box. Of the 6 holes on the template, 2 of them will fall on the actual wood. The other 4 fall in the open area in the middle. The two on the wood are the ones you need to mark. Use an awl to mark it. Then remove the template.

Using a drill press, carefully drill 1/4 holes on the 2 locations you marked. Don't worry if it seems too close to the edge. It supposed to be. It should look like photo 5 when you're done.

Next, you need to drill a hole in the center of the sheet metal piece. My switch required a 1/2" hole, but yours may be different. I would suggest starting with a small hole and slowly working your way up to the desired size. Now you can screw the metal piece to the top of the wood. I used #4 x 5/8" screws, but that's just what I had laying around.

Once you've made sure the metal piece fits nice, take if off, as you need to attach the switch box to the light panel later.

Step 3: The Light Panel

Parts:

(1) 1x8x 10"
(2) small "L" brackets and corresponding screws
The switch box you just made in step 2

Remember how I told you to print two copies of the template? This is where you need the other copy.

Take the template and cut around the whole thing on the solid line. Then, tape it down to your piece of wood.

Using an awl, mark all of the small holes. There are 15 total. the lights will mount through these holes. Then mark the big hole in the center. You'll also want to mark the rounded corners and the handle cut out. Once you've marked everything, remove the template.

Using a drill press, drill all of the small holes. Use a 3/32" drill bit. Then, on one side of the panel, drill countersink holes. I used a 1/4" countersink bit. Then use a 1/4" drill bit to drill out the big hole in the middle.

Now, using a jigsaw, (or a scroll saw if you prefer) cut out the handle and round off the 4 corners. Give them all a quick sand when you're done.

Then attach the 2 L brackets halfway down the panel. See photo 6.

The last thing to do is attach the switch box to the light panel. This proved to be a little tricky. Make sure that the 2 holes that go through the switch box line up with the 2 corresponding holes in the light panel. Then, using a couple 2" nails, nail the switch box to the light panel.

Step 4: Modifying the Lights

Parts:

(5) 27 LED portable work light/flashlight, such as these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/27-led-portable-workl...

About 5 feet of electrical wire, mine was garage door sensor wire

The first thing you need to do is to take the lights apart. Take the battery cover off first, it should be attached with 3 screws. Then, remove the 4 screws that hold the rest of the light together. The light should come apart now. See photo 1. These particular lights have 3 LEDs on the bottom. Since these aren't going to be used in the worklight, I removed them to save them for another project.

Next, feed a piece of wire up through the hole (to be specific, it is really 2 wires) where the 3 LEDs were located. Solder one wire to each side of the switch on the circuit board. See photos 2 and 3.

To make sure no dust would get inside the lights, I taped the opening over with painters tape, and then filled it in with hot glue. Once the glue was cool, I peeled the tape off. See photos 4 and 5.

Now that the lights are done, DO NOT reassemble them. Since the blue covers are going to be painted black, we will reassemble the lights after we paint them.

Step 5: Painting

Painting was easy. I just hung everything in my paint booth, and spray painted it with Rustoleum Painter's Touch flat black.

Step 6: Wiring and Assembly

Parts:

(15) #8 X 1 1/4" screws

(2) 1/4" bolts, 1 1/2" long

(10) washers

(2) 1/4" lock nuts

To assemble the work light, first reassemble the LED lights. However, do not attach the battery covers. Then, attach the 5 lights to the light panel using the #8 X 1 1/4" screws. The screws will attach to the lights through the battery cover holes. As you attach them, be sure to feed the wires through the hole in the center of the panel. Once all the lights are attached, connect the switch to the wires. All of the white wires go on one side of the switch, and all of the black wires go on the other. See photo 3. Then mount the switch on the metal panel, and screw the metal panel to the switch box. See photos 4 and 5.

Using the bolts, attach the completed light panel to the base. If needed, use the washers as spacers between the pipe and the L brackets. then secure the bolts with the lock nuts. Tighten them so that the light panel can still be adjusted.

Step 7: Finished at Last!

"The snap of a few sparks, a quick whiff of ozone, and the lamp blazed forth in unparalleled glory. Look at that! Will you look at that?!"

Ooo and Ahh at your hard work. Your work light is completed.

Comments

author
Yonatan24 (author)2015-10-27

Why did you choose to use these flashlights?

You could have replaced all of them with a 12V 10W LED (They are less than $1 on eBay)
and you could have made an option of having it corded or battery powered...

author
Court_ (author)Yonatan242016-03-09

Harbor freight almost always gives these away for free.

1. get the coupons

2. buy the cheapest thing in the store, or something you actually need.

3. get a free light.

author
shootr (author)Court_2017-02-12

Ahhh, the pleasure of roaming the HF aisles regularly - some folks won't ever get it LOL. I'm always looking for ideas to use them on - just please explain the battery installation if you can.

author
Yonatan24 (author)Court_2016-03-09

Still... In the long term they're way more expensive

author
JeffA2 (author)2015-10-25

This is a great idea, and well done! Well, except for the fact that there's no power source...

You forgot something...

(I'm assuming there are batteries inside that switch box though, right? But still, you forgot something... You should probably add that step to this instructable.)

author
grandpasgarage (author)2015-10-25

This is the workbench I have. You can get it at Samas club or on Amazon. www.sevilleclassics.com/lighted_work_center_ultra_hd_graphite_UHD20246B

author
juiceman74 (author)2015-10-25

interesting project, but if I may ask, can you do an instructable on how you built your work bench? It looks pretty neat and not to expensive,

10x, O><M

author
Team Z (author)2015-10-24

Cool, looks great!

author
grandpasgarage (author)2015-10-24

Yeah. It uses the original AAA battery set up. If u made another one, I would probably use 3 C or D cells.

author
Neiko913 (author)2015-10-24

Awesome setup! I will be making one up soon. Question, what are you powering it all up with? original batteries in stock location?

author
Syed Umair Shah (author)2015-10-24

fantastic....It is a good project

author
Big Projects (author)2015-10-23

This is a great idea!

author
ThriftStore Hacker (author)2015-10-23

good idea. these lights are cheap and super bright. you can run the power from the 3 led setup to the other lights and make the switch function better and not have 2 off positions.

author
aaahotdog (author)2015-10-23

I like it. Looks really nice.

author
johnnyk13 (author)2015-10-23

Nice work. Is it fra-gee-lay?

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Bio: Part Snatcher, DIY-er, Tinkerer, Volkswagen Nut, and Occasional Mad Genius.
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