Well, he uses something called a talkbox. Basically it runs the sound from your guitar into an amplifier, out a speaker, and into a tube where you can manipulate it by changing the shape of you mouth and depth of you throat. They run about a hundred dollars but you can build one for less.
These sites help me link1 link2 link 3
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1 Horn Driver Here is the one I got (I might change it out for a better one soon)
* The impedance of the speaker needs to be the same as the one in your amp. I used these links to figure out what I needed.
Speaker Impedance
My Amps Manual
1- practice amp (mine is a Marshal MG10 I got with my first guitar. Don't do this to your best rig.)
1- piece of 1" flex PVC pipe
3- hose clamp (got it in the plumbing department it had 1/2" threads and fits the 3/8" hose)
1- 1 PVC Coupling
1- PVC Reducer 1"x 1/2"
1- 1/2" PVC Female Adapter 1/2
1- some length of 3/8" black vinyl tubing
1 - piece of 4" wide PVC
2- 4" PVC Caps
1- 2PDT switch (I wanted a stomp switch. You could use 2 spdt switched for cheap)
3- adjustable metal bands (one small and 2 big)
1- liquid silicone (optional)
1- flat black spray paint (optional)
1- pocket full of dreams *A MUST*
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Can i take a 1, 1 1/14, or an 1 1/2 female adapter and screw it on the horn driver? Then put a plug at the other end of the adapter drill a hole for the 3/8 barb and connect the hose.
from left to right: 1 3/8 hose barb, 1/2" PVC Female Adapter 1/2, PVC Reducer 1"x 1/2", 1 PVC Coupling, piece of 1" flex PVC pipe( why do we need this), small hose clamp, horn driver
4" piece N' caps not shown
Also called Jubilee Clips after the company which first made them.
the Ohm's and the Watt's differ.
You can use a higher amount of Ohm then your amp delivers, but not lower.
The speaker can be of higher Watt rating than the amp delivers but not lower.
So don't go low on Ohm's, but stay high on Watt's.
the switch is wired like any 2pdt switch:
[] [] [] Connect the leads for the amp driver (speaker) to lugs 1 and 2 on this row
[] [] [] Connect the input cables (from the amp itself) to lugs 1 and 2 of this row
[] [] [] Connect the leads for the talk-box driver to lugs 1 and 2 on this row
Best to keep polarities the same (but not absolutely necessary, according to james), just in case there is an issue with the amp. For example I think any class D amplifiers need proper polarization to work... but I might be mistaken.
An interesting addition to this would be a foot controller with an LED indicator, which you could make using similar principles, but add a controller cable, using an electronic switching system and a 1pdt momentary switch on a box that you connect to the rig via a simple switch-cable-jack-e.switch.
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Also, great job on the ASE/Ultra mod for the DS-1