I found the slight curvature gained by the flex in the doweled oak wine barrel top interesting when the attached to a barrel stave. The spike is removable and sheathed on the back much like a Scottish targe.
Step 1: Tools and Materials
Drill and bits
Band saw or jig saw
Leather Tools ( Not completely necessary but handy)
Strap end punches
saddle stitch groover
#0 Grommet setter
Hair on Cow hide
Tooling Leather 10 - 12oz.
Latigo or Bridle leather 7 to 9 oz
Double cap rivets
5/8" x 4" Hanger Bolt
Titebond 3 wood glue
Old Wine Barrel Top
Wine Barrel Staves
Amber Shellac, Varnish, or a water based clear coat
Step 2: Measuring & Cutting the Leather for the Front
Important , mark the center on the leather as well as the barrel top, the center index marks aid in the alignment process throughout this Instructable
The Latigo is cut at 1 1/2 " wide and placed on a 5" grid the lengths are randomly longer than needed They will be trimmed later.
The cow hide is "Petaled Out" with a strap end punch and cut on the outer line. If you don't have a strap end punch points can be cut out with a razor knife.
Step 3: The Cross Brace
My Viking / Barbarian War Hammer Instructable covers burning and brushing wood.
Find the center of the stave and drill a hole for the t-nut. The hanger bolt is threaded into the t-nut and the depth is marked with a sharpie.
Step 4: The Spike
Burn and brush the spike and clear coat it.
Put some contact cement on a scrap of latigo and on the bottom of the spike. When dry put them together and trim to fit. This makes a nice leather washer that insures a snug fit when threaded into the t-nut.
Step 5: Front Assembly
Step 6: Measuring & Cutting the Leather for the Back
Use the pattern for the arm support. This is also cut out of latigo and riveted on to the back. A Shearling liner is also cut.
A sheath for the spike is made by wetting a scrap of tooling leather, forming it around the spike and clamping till it's dry. Tooling leather is used because latigo does not wet form well. The sheath is then dyed to match the back and sewn on.
Step 7: Assembling the Back
Coat the back with titebond 3 and center the arm piece leather on it. Run some additional screws through the arm piece prior to gluing on the shearling.
I riveted a hanging strap on at the last minute.
Use the dividers set at 1" to pattern out the edge for the upholstery tacks.
Trim the long latigo straps and secure them with upholstery tacks.
For all purposes this shield is done, but I wanted to try a new technique on the front for more detail.
Step 8: Woven Celtic Knot Out of Tooling Leather
Cut a 1/4" strip of 10 / 12 oz. tooling leather and soak it in water for 10 minutes. Start the knot and follow the weaving pattern. Leave the ends long they can be trimmed later. Allow the leather to dry overnight before removing from the form to retain the shape of the knot. Dye the knot allow to it dry again
I used copper brads to tack the knot down ( I think they will patina nicely ). Start in the corners and tack down at all cross points.